Hello Everyone!! How do I get the booster hose brass sleeve out of the intake manifold? I bought the booster hose from dealer and installed it in my car (2003 - x-type) but now I found out that I have to buy the kit that goes into the intake manifold. I put gasket maker around hose end... hopefully, this will not damage engine??? I plan to return to the dealer tomorrow to buy mentioned kit. However, I cannot get the old brass sleeve out. Any suggestions?

 

acerek, what you have to do is to push the hose into the intake manifold and hold the outer ring down. Then, gently lift up on the hose only (keeping the ring pressed down). THe hose should slide right out at that point. From there, the ring can be pulled out separately. Atleast that is how it works on my car. But then, my connector does not have a brass piece to it either. It is all plastic.

 

Thermo, MANY THANKS, as always! However, I've already removed the old hose and the plastic retainer that came with it (it fell apart). I managed to pull out all the pieces, but there still remains the brass sleeve I mentioned earlier. How do I get it out? Or do I just leave it there and just replace the O'ring that comes with the new kit. Also, I put gasket maker around hose end before finding out there was a kit... will this damage the engine??

 

Acerek
The brass piece is a bugger to get out. I was told (and it works) is buy the kit, throw the brass piece in your collection jar and use the rest, the only thing that breaks is the plastic part and the O ring wears out, the brass has to be drilled out and a new one pressed in(tricky in aluminum) No need to replace it unless you beat on it and distort it.Simple fix if you don't over think it.Hope this gets to you in time.

 

Billbjork AWESOME solution!!! Thank you. I will do just that. Much appreciated, guys!

 

acerek, yes, just leave the brass in there and call it good. That is what I do. Like Bill mentions, taking it out can be a PITA and you are likely to do more damage than good.

Funny thing is, thinking about it, my new hose did not come with an o-ring. It was just the tube and that is it. May have to do more looking into it.

 

Thanks Thermo! Just finished replacing all components and it went smoothly! However, I still have a problem braking. The brake pedal is very stiff and sometimes it kicks back. Could there be something more serious? I also get a computer warning stating "Cruise Control Not Available" (it goes away after a while) I've seen other threads with this problem could it be a damaged booster hose...? I hope is not the brake booster. Any Ideas?

 

acerek, I would say to find a place where you have lots of room and then install a plug into the opening for the brake booster line. From there, you can remove the brake booster line and remove the power assist for the brakes. Then, while driving slowly, you can apply the brakes and if you are still getting feedback, then you are sure it is the brake booster or something wrong with the ABS module. The car will take more pressure on the pedal to make it stop due to the assist being removed. Hence why I say to find an area that is open and to drive slowly. The e-brake will be more than adequate to stop the car if you find it too hard to press the pedal (not likely, but it is a good option).

 

Thermo, I will try it out and let you know. Thanks!

 

Thermo it still has the same problem... stiff brakes.

 

Acerek, then unfortunately you are looking at either a bad ABS block or the brake booster is toast. I am not sure how you would test the brake booster to see if it is good. Can't say that I can recall a way to test it. Hopefully someone else can chime in and give you a pointer on that.

 

acerek
When I had my vacuum leak problem I would have NO assist at startup BUT no warning CEL either, no kick back on the peddle. The CEL (no cruse control) was from the vacuum leak only. So with that said the kick back is your ABS activating from some other source.Either a wheel sensor,control module,ect..Does it do it(kick back) only at start up, in reverse, low speed? If when you first start up and put it in reverse if you have a brake hanging up the system thinks a wheel is sliding and will trigger the ABS to free it. A broken collector ring will trigger it and a CEL (for the ABS). But a hard peddle and CEL. Does it go away after a few minutes?I can see a hard peddle and a P0174 or P0171 (lean codes) but this should not trigger the ABS.They are two different systems,ECM and BCM.A constant hard peddle is different,A-- complete booster failure,B-vac. leak to the booster besides the line/check valve C---master cylinder, D--air in the hydraulic system.
As a side note I heard if you have a hard PEDDLE for more than 4 hrs you should call the doctor! LOL

 

LOL! Thanks, guys!