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A/C, Heater fan will not stop....

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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Default A/C, Heater fan will not stop....

Ok, got a crazy problem. I have searched all over the forum and can't find a solution. For the last couple of days, my heater/air conditioner fan continues to run even when the car is off and no key is in the ignition. I came out to a dead battery every day for the last 3 days. Called the Jag dealership and the mechanic says it sounds like its low in anti-freeze. Checked that and it was, which I have now topped off and the car is still doing it. The fan starts to run about 10 mins after I shut the carr off. Any suggestions?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Marvsgt, yours is certainly an interesting problem (and quite distressing, I would guess).

I can't wait to hear some of the forum tech experts weigh in on this. I am curious to learn why low engine coolant would cause the heater/ac fan to run on.

(My guess is when some sensor is dry, the computer thinks there might be a vaporlock from heat and kicks in extra cooling capacity with that fan. Just a guess, but that's mine!)

If you were down enough to need coolant, it is possible you still need (more) coolant. Lots of engines need "burping" to fully fill them, and probably the best instructions on how to do that in the X-Type were given by Thermo:

"As for bleeding air out of the motor, you will need to get the system tight (ie, replacing the water pump), then you will fill the coolant system via the overflow bottle to the MAX FILL line with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water (if anything go a little heavier on the coolant than water, say 55/45 mix or even up to 60/40). Now, start the engine and run it at about 2000 RPM until the cooling fan kicks on. Turn off the engine and let sit for 2 minutes. During this 2 minutes, loosely install 2 clamps, one on the heater core inlet hose, 1 on the heater core outlet hose. Start the engine and rev back up to 2000 RPM. With the engine up at 2000 RPM, pinch shut the heater core return line, then the heater core inlet line. Run the engine for an additional 2 minutes. At this point, turn off the engine, remove the items used to pinch shut the 2 hoses for the heater core and let the engine cool. Once cool, top off the overflow bottle to the upper end of the allowable band."

Hope that's a help.
 

Last edited by Bruce in North Dakota; Dec 10, 2010 at 09:42 PM.
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:08 PM
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Thanks Bruce. Yes, it is very frustrating. I now have to disconnect the battery at night until I can figure out the problem. I don't understand either why the mechanic said the low coolant level would cause the a/c fan to run, I could understand it causing the engine cooling fan to run when the level is low. I am at a lost on this issue.

After filling the coolant level the first time and running the engine, it still needed more which I added more. Problem still exists though. I hope someone can provide some advice.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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Marvsgt, just had the same problem and found that I needed a new waterpump. Keep an eye on your coolant level and look for leaking coolant.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 02:26 PM
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the OP is referring to the HVAC fan INSIDE the car, seems that the rest of you are talking about the fan on the radiator.

I dont even think the mechanic is understanding which fan is running.

I doubt that you will be able to figure this out without getting the car hooked up to a dealer's computer. The HVAC fan is totally computer controlled.

you could look under the glove compartment and unplug the fan motor there, might be easier than the battery, until you get to a dealer. Keep us posted please with the solution.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 05:57 PM
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Sport30, that is correct. It's the fan inside the car and not the engine fan. Thanks for suggesting I go through the glove to disconnect the fan motor. I will try that tomorrow until I can figure this out.

Btw, do you think it could possibly be the actual HVAC unit has gone bad in the dash? Replacement ones seem to be pretty cheap on ebay.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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yes could be the control unit which is built into the dash controls I think. I dont know 100% because my car has navigation and the control unit is a different module.

THe plug for the fan us Under the dash, you can get at it by unclipping the flimsy foam cover above the passenger's feet. It may be more trouble than it is worth.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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he was thinking the engine fan since that will run after engine shutoff with overheat and or low coolant. You really need to diag if its the module or a short. Unplug the module to see. If it stays on you probobly have a wiring short, if not the module. Pulling that cover off till repaired and unhooking 1 wire is alot easier than unhooking the battery, then having to reset windows and clock
 
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Old Dec 13, 2010 | 10:15 PM
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Thanks for all the responses. I will try to unplug the module tomorrow and see what happens. I'll keep you guys posted on the results.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2010 | 04:12 PM
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Ok, now and update and a solution:

So, after a week of me troubleshooting and trying everything known to man, having to spend $110 bucks on a new battery;
And after my car spending 3 days at the dealership with them trying to figure out the problem and me racking of a $325 shop bill with them;

The problem turns out to be a faulty, $11.26 relay.

I could just kick myself for not thinking to check the relay first. I was trying to think of the most difficult answer instead of thinking of the most simple first. Well, I guess you live and you learn. I shouldn't feel too bad I guess cause it took the dealership a while to figure it out as well. Hopefully, this will help someone else with a similar or same problem.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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how did the dealer justify 325???
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 05:01 PM
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They charged me for the 3 days worth of diagnostics trying to find the problem.
 
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Old Dec 19, 2010 | 06:01 PM
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jerks...
 
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Old Dec 20, 2010 | 03:15 PM
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Most dealers would starve if they were only paid if they figured out the problem. I can't figure out how a professional mechanic, supposedly factory trained can charge you to blindly fumble around looking for the issues. You end up getting charge 3 hours but realistically you took it to an 'expert' to avoid someone screwing around for 3 hours and the thing could have been fixed in 10 minutes.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2013 | 12:58 PM
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Default fan relay location

Hi, I'm a newbe here and have been reading this forum for about 3 months. I'm an old guy, turning wrenches and messing with cars since the 60's. I just bought my wife a 2004 x-type 3.0. I bought it because the guy who owned it said it's really a Taurus (which my wife loved) and she never had a sports car. I've owned MG's in the past in the 80's, I had 3 at once...one to drive and 2 for parts. I figured the British car makers solved all the problems I encountered. ( I.E MG would die at the most inopertune time, 1st date, in the middle of a busy intersection and the fuel pump with "grasshopper" points is in the trunk. The car was light enough for one to push.) He was wrong, it is not a Taurus. Unlike the MG there is no Haynes manual.
I joined this forum because it is a tremendous wealth of information from both knowledgeable and well meaning individuals. I find the Jaguar is a very difficult car to find specs, troubleshooting, tech info, and parts interchangability. This forum seems to meet those needs.
I'm replying on this post as I have the same problem with the HVAC fan running intermitently with the car off. I'd like to know where this fan relay is located that is mentioned, so I can check it. Thanks and keep the info coming.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2013 | 12:57 PM
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Strangely my 2007 x type, is behaving in similar fashion.
Its getting overheated due to lack of coolant, it works fine if AC is not on.
Upon shutting off the car, due to overheated engine, fan is switched on for almost 10 mins.
The mechanic found out its due to lack of coolant, perhaps there is a leakage in the hose, I suspect.
Tmrw wud know what the real problem is.
I hope the leakage is stopped and all works well.
 
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Old Nov 28, 2015 | 09:22 AM
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Default HVAC Stays on with ignition key removed

Hi, I have a similar issue. When it is cold the whole AC panel on the centre console stops responding and stays on when the ignition key is removed. I cannot get a response pressing any of the buttons and even removing the AC relay on the left of the console (R20) has no effect. The only solution I have found is to remove the fuse from the main fuse box that feeds power to the fuse box under the dash on the interior of the car.
Any ideas? I suspect the HVAC CCM is up the creek but it is expensive to replace so I want to get the diagnosis correct before I spend that money!


Axelf.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 09:15 AM
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Default A/C, Heater fan will not stop....

Originally Posted by MARVSGT
Ok, now and update and a solution:

The problem turns out to be a faulty, $11.26 relay.

I could just kick myself for not thinking to check the relay first. I was trying to think of the most difficult answer instead of thinking of the most simple first. Well, I guess you live and you learn. I shouldn't feel too bad I guess cause it took the dealership a while to figure it out as well. Hopefully, this will help someone else with a similar or same problem.
Hi
I have similar problem.
would you help me and specify which relay you replaced? Code and position.
Thanks
Paolo
 
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 03:00 PM
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Some cars have relays names printed on fuse box cover.
Remove cover and look
Most owners manuals have list and diagram of fuses and relays. If you don't find the relay, find and remove fuse.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2019 | 03:42 PM
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https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts...ad=47433948012

In fuse box, the layout for pre 2004+ (before April) & after 2004+ cars is on main page in the "stickies".
 

Last edited by Dell Gailey; Mar 20, 2019 at 03:45 PM.
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