Parked my 2004 Xtype 98000 miles in the garage, disconnected negative battery cable. Came back 2 weeks later. Noticed oil spots on garage floor, (2 or 3 spots silver dollar size). Hooked up battery and checked oil and it was halfway between max and min. Started right up, normal conditions. Backed up and parked outside a couple days on street. Before starting it again I looked under hood and saw about same amount of oil spots on ground. Dipstick read at min. I turned ignition and engine turns and starts but sounds shaky and weak, so I turn off immediately with fear. Check oil again, at min. Next day, check oil it's half way between min and max. I'm thinking because there is adequate oil in the sump that it is safe to attempt start? But then I'm thinking that if the oil pump has failed, the sump could be full and the engine is not adequately lubricated. I tried to start it again and it wouldn't start, sounds similar to a low battery. The battery reads 12.3. It has full tank of gas.

The car has 98000 miles. No major health history. Very regular synthetic oil changes. I am very reluctant to try starting it again until I can assure proper oil lubrication (how would I do this?)

What is my next step? How can I check the systems one by one(fuel pump, oil pump, etc.) or troubleshoot? I can have it towed to shop but I enjoy minor/amateur workings on my car and learning and understanding this incredible machine.

What would you do next?

Cannot thank you enough.

 

Your battery may be about to go over the hill, but try to charge the battery.

If you dare, and want to prove out the oil pump, just take off the oil filter and turn the engine over. If the pump is pumping, you'll be cussing and wonder why you listened to stupid old Larry! By the way, pull the fuel pump relay so it won't start on you like that. That would be bad. Funny, but bad.

If it was me and I was happy with the oil pump, I'd try again to start it and see if it smooths out. If it's been really cool or extra humid or both, that might affect the way it runs even if briefly.

When my wife's oil pump failed and the engine shelled it's bearings, it happened all at once and it was done for right then. It happened at idle pulling away from a stop sign. It still ran smooth, it just knocked really loud.

 

The battery is new since June 2013. Expensive brand $200. But I could try to start with a jump tomorrow.

I may try the oil filter removal trick. Oil-pump pumps oil to filter first then into engine, makes sense.

Now that I think about it, after the engine did turn, the dipstick levels decreased (.5-1 quart) so oil was being moved around.

Thanks for your help, Sir.

 

Force, odds are it is just the battery being low. Like Larry said, charge it up, see what you have then. If the oil pump wasn't running, you would know. The lifters would sound like they are coming right out of the engine and the oil light would be on too. As for the oil level shifting around on you, that can be something as simple as the car being parked on a slight incline. The car should be fine to start.

If you need more help, we are here for you. On a side note, just because the battery is new, does not mean that it is not bad. A battery will go when it feels like it. If in doubt, I have a check that you can do using a multimeter and you can prove the battery good yourself.

 

Thanks for your help and insight. I had the confidence to try to get it started via a jump. It was a little "shaky" at first but no loud noises as your suggested would accompany an oil pump failure. It strengthened up after about 10 seconds. No indication lights, nothing.

Makes me really want to install oil pressure gauges and fuel pressure gauge.

Thanks for the help.

 

Force, for the fuel pressure gauge, they make special gauges that screw right on to the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Then all you have to do is to open the hood and look at the gauge. As for the oil pressure gauge, you would need to do some asking around and see what other may recommend. I think you are going to be hard pressed to find an open port to screw in a sender unit. Odds are, you best bet will be to find a port currently in use and then tee off that port so you can screw the original sender in 1 side of the tee and your new sensor on the other side.

 

force:

get a scan tool and hook it up it should read fuel pressure and some read oil pressure if the computer is sending the info out, easier than hooking up aftermarket