So i have a 2002 x-type 2.5 and I am having issues with it running past 3000 rpm, it is manual 5 speed and drives great until I hit 3000 rpm. Then it bogs down until I shift. I have had codes read it is p0306 (cylinder 6 misfire) and p1314 and p1316. Yes I have replaced the cylinder for bank 2 cylinder 6, yes I replaced the spark plugs, I have checked the most obvious places for vacuum leaks and I have replaced the Orings for the IMT and yes I have replaced the PVC Hose and the brake booster pipe is new as well. Does anyone have any clue what the heck it could be thank you! I really think it is something stupid and small.

 

I pulled out my MAF and cleaned the hell out of it.
Cleared my cruise not available and lean bank 1 code.
There are two more sensors up inside the MAF you cannot see
without removing it.

 

Tested my MAF by taking it out while the car was running and it shut right off as it is supposed to but what did you use to clean yours I mean why not give it a shot

 

This post has info about cleaning an MAF sensor: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...5/#post1233029

There are many Internet videos on this topic as well.

 

code 0306 is number 6 cylinder misfire and the other 1314 and 1316 are catalytic convertor damaged. Probably when hitting over 2500 RPM the Engine Management Light is flashing.
The resolution is most likely bad coil pack on the number 6 cylinder or maybe just a bad plug. If you haven't driven it too long in this condition the convertor will survive. Long term it will be damaged.
There is a thread on the forum about cleaning the convertor.
I would change both the plug and the coil pack so that i only have to go in there once. You will need a code reader to clear the codes after the repair. They won't clear by themselves.

 

I used dam near a whole can of maf cleaner.

I have read to move the suspect coil and plug to a certain
cylinder so it can be switched without removing the manifold again.
That is to insure that is the issue before buying the parts.

I ran my car without the maf connected for awhile.
With hope of doing less damage with the computer putting the
car into safe specs, and not overcompensating and killing the cats.
Did it work? Car did run better, so that is when I cleaned it better.

 

I replaced the 6 cylinder and spark plug already and cleared codes no change there I have a code reader to test it already so no worries there. Where would I look for a coil pack and how to change that, I guess I am confused on that certain part? I am going to go to the store and get MAF sensor cleaner as well and try spraying the hell out of it as I removed it and noticed one side is covered in black grime I guess lol no other word really for that.

 

Vern: Try this to determine if a bad coil on #6 is causing the misfires:
1) Swap the #2 & #6 coils
2) Clear the codes
3) Run the engine
4) See if a new code P0302 (cylinder #2 misfire) appears in lieu of P0306 (cylinder #6 misfire).

If 'yes', replace the coil on #2, which is the most accessible, with a new part # C2S42673.

Let us know how it goes.

 

Replaced the coil but still getting the same issues I do smell a small hint of gas so I am thinking maybe it is my Fuel Injector? How would I go about testing or changing this?

 

Sounds like you have narrowed it down to an O-ring on the fuel rail.
Search and see if anything rings a bell with your issues.
There should be no gas smell under the hood.

Fix is very basic, you done most of it already.
remove intake, rails are underneath, think 4 or 6 bolts hold them on
IMO, just replace the one (no broke-no fix)

 

Is there a diagram of where the fuel rail is so I can make sure I am looking at the correct thing for the orings?

 

Here's a shot I took when I replaced plugs, coils, etc...the fuel rail attached to the upper plenum is hanging there strapped up.

 

This picture should help clarify a bit.

 

Do you guys think it would be the fuel rail or the orings themselves causing the issue I don't want to take it all apart and not have the right part and I don't wanna buy all the parts and only need like an oring any thoughts?

 

Typically just the o-rings are to blame.

 

Have you replaced the green rubber gaskets shown in the picture?
Good idea too do it while there, my 2002 were pretty flat when I checked.
Also possible one of them is not seated correctly.
You will have to check and use your judgement.
The issue, if, should be seen with the naked eye.

There are 2 sets of 6 gaskets involved getting to the rail.
They are reusable, if you think they look ok to reuse.

 

looking to buy the gaskets and make that my check but want them in hand before I rip my engine a part what are they specifically called so when I call to get them I know what to say thanks for all the help guys.

 

tensor: Allow the engine ample time to cool before you remove the intake manifold bolts. The lower manifold has brass inserts which sometimes break free if you loosen the upper intake bolts while hot. The brass inserts are visible in Lubrication's two pictures, next to the green manifold gaskets.

When you reinstall the intake, a dab of anti-seize makes it easier to remove the intake bolts next time. Take care not to over-tighten them. The torque spec is only 10 Nm = 7.4 ft lbs, i.e., hand tight.

 

Are these the gaskets I need to buy?

Felpro/Intake Manifold Gasket MS96485 at AutoZone.com

I am looking for the exact thing I need to purchase if they aren't can someone post a link for me thanks guys a million!

 

Try a non ethanol fuel any time I run fuel with any ethanol in it I get a lean code and a misfire code.