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Climate Control Fan stopped working

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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 11:52 AM
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Default Climate Control Fan stopped working

First problem with my 04 X since I purchased it last November. Last week, while the temps were in the upper 90's most of the week, the climate control fan stopped blowing. I had started the car before I left work so it can cool down a bit and went back to the office. I came back 10 minutes later and found the fan was off but the climate control display was on. It was just as I left it, in auto set to 72 deg. and the recirc was on. I turned it off and then back on but same thing, display is on but no fan. Since then, I've searched the forum for a similar problem and hopefully a solution but none has worked so far. I've looked and swapped relays and fuses but all were OK and the problem still exists. Am I looking at a faulty module and if so where is it located? Any help is appreciated before I head to the dealer and the codes scanned. Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 12:08 PM
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02XType, let me look at my diagrams, but you are most likely looking at a bad module in the dash that you input the temperature into. Do you have the Nav unit or the basic radio? That will help me make sure I get the exact setup you have and then I can figure out what is going on.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
02XType, let me look at my diagrams, but you are most likely looking at a bad module in the dash that you input the temperature into. Do you have the Nav unit or the basic radio? That will help me make sure I get the exact setup you have and then I can figure out what is going on.
Thanks Thermo, much appreciated. No nav. just the basic radio/cd player.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 04:52 PM
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02Xtype, well, first humor me and check fuses F37 (30 amp fuse) and fuse F39 (10 amp fuse). Both are in the passenger foot well fuse box. After that, using a multimeter, get into the passenger foot well area and find the power plug for the blower motor. Stick the red lead into the side of the plug that has the orange/yellow wire. Do you have 12 VDC there when the system should be running? If no, then you either have a bad F37 fuse (has opened, but looks good), the wiring between the fuse is failed, or the relay is bad internally and requires replacement. In this case, I would move the multimeter over to fuse F37 and stick the black lead on any bare metal part of the car you can find and then use the red lead to touch both of the small metal posts on the top of the fuse. If you get 12 VDC on both sides, bad wire between the fuse and the blower motor. If you get 0 VDC on both terminals, relay issue (write me and I will give you a few more checks to make), or if you get 12 VDC on one side, but 0 VDC on the other, you have a bad fuse, replace it.

Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.

If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2013 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
02Xtype, well, first humor me and check fuses F37 (30 amp fuse) and fuse F39 (10 amp fuse). Both are in the passenger foot well fuse box. After that, using a multimeter, get into the passenger foot well area and find the power plug for the blower motor. Stick the red lead into the side of the plug that has the orange/yellow wire. Do you have 12 VDC there when the system should be running? If no, then you either have a bad F37 fuse (has opened, but looks good), the wiring between the fuse is failed, or the relay is bad internally and requires replacement. In this case, I would move the multimeter over to fuse F37 and stick the black lead on any bare metal part of the car you can find and then use the red lead to touch both of the small metal posts on the top of the fuse. If you get 12 VDC on both sides, bad wire between the fuse and the blower motor. If you get 0 VDC on both terminals, relay issue (write me and I will give you a few more checks to make), or if you get 12 VDC on one side, but 0 VDC on the other, you have a bad fuse, replace it.

Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.

If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
Thanks a lot Thermo for the detailed diagnostics. I followed your instructions above and it looks like the blower motor is toast. I got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire and 0 VDC on the green/black wire. Everything else checked OK. However I didn't know how to check for resistance because I wasn't sure where the blower resistor was. So I went on eBay and found a used blower from a wrecker for $37 and I bought it. I will update this post once I receive and install it. Thanks again for the great help.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 06:43 AM
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02XType, the blower motor is going to be essentially a short when you look at it with a multimeter. It is going to be under 5 ohms. So, if you take a multimeter across the terminals, if it is good, you will see like 3 ohms. If you are getting anything above say 10 ohms (odds are, it would go to like 100K ohms or more), then it is bad.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2013 | 01:35 PM
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Got it. I'll check the resistance across the terminals this afternoon once I get home. Thanks again Thermo.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2013 | 10:44 PM
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Default Climate Control Fan stopped working - FIXED

Update, got a used blower and installed it a couple of days ago and all is working fine. Problem solved thanks to Thermo's help, thank you very much Sir for your detailed diagnostic. You're a wealth of knowledge to this forum.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2013 | 04:15 PM
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02xtype, just taking what I know and using it with something that I enjoy doing. All I ask is when someone else needs help and you can assist, you help them. Pay It Forward and keep the ball rolling.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
02Xtype, well, first humor me and check fuses F37 (30 amp fuse) and fuse F39 (10 amp fuse). Both are in the passenger foot well fuse box. After that, using a multimeter, get into the passenger foot well area and find the power plug for the blower motor. Stick the red lead into the side of the plug that has the orange/yellow wire. Do you have 12 VDC there when the system should be running? If no, then you either have a bad F37 fuse (has opened, but looks good), the wiring between the fuse is failed, or the relay is bad internally and requires replacement. In this case, I would move the multimeter over to fuse F37 and stick the black lead on any bare metal part of the car you can find and then use the red lead to touch both of the small metal posts on the top of the fuse. If you get 12 VDC on both sides, bad wire between the fuse and the blower motor. If you get 0 VDC on both terminals, relay issue (write me and I will give you a few more checks to make), or if you get 12 VDC on one side, but 0 VDC on the other, you have a bad fuse, replace it.

Assuming you got 12 VDC on the orange/yellow wire to the blower motor with the system set for max blower speed, move the red lead over to the green black wire (other side of the plug for the blower motor). Do you get 12 VDC there? If yes, then your climate control module is bad. If you get 0 VDC, then your blower motor is toast. If you suspect the climate control module, do one final check. Remove the plug off of the blower motor and then switch over the multimeter to read resistance. Now, with the system lined up for max air flow, stick the red lead on the green/black wire and the black lead to the green/black wire on the blower resistor. If you get 0 ohm resistance (anything under 5 ohms is good), then that confirms a good wire coming off of the blower motor and your problem is the climate control module. If you get a high resistance reading, you have a bad wire between the blower motor and the climate control module.

If you need more help, let me know. I will assist you however I can.
Hi Thermo
I was following your instructions regarding tracing a fault in the blower motor circuit. Mine is an 2002 X Type 2.5L V6 and for the life of me I cannot locate any fuse box on the passenger side. The only item there in the foot well is the car computer with a multiple connector plastic box on top. Would the fuses you refer to be in there?
I tested my blower motor direct fom battery supply and it works fine so I am suspecting that the problem may be the climate control board in the dash.
Your respected input would be much appreciated.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 05:06 PM
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Vkng7, first things first. Please keep in mind that there are two different wiring harnesses for the x-type. There is the 02 to early 04 and then there is the ones made after march 2004. If I remember right, the fuse box location changed. So, check on the driver's side. This will also mean that the fuses are not going to match up either.

I will have to see what I can do about getting the diagrams on my tablet. I am on travel and do not have my normal data sources available. From what you are describing and what I remember about the fan diagram, you may be looking at a bad relay or a bad fuse. Since you know the blower motor works, it can be but only a few pieces from there.
 
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Old Oct 17, 2015 | 11:24 PM
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vkng7: Follow Thermo's advice with these fuse numbers for an '02:

F6 is a 30A fuse for the blower motor. It's in the Power Distribution Fuse Box under the hood, by the battery.

F80 is a 7.5A fuse that closes Blower Relay R20 when the ignition key is in the run (II) position. F80 and R20 are in the Central Junction Fuse Box, by the driver's left foot under the dash of US LHD cars.

So back to Thermo's guidance...... When the ignition key is turned to the run position (II), blower relay R20 should close and you should detect ~12 volts in the orange / yellow wire to the blower motor. If you detect zero volts in the orange / yellow wire, check fuses F80 (7.5A), F6 (30A), and blower relay R20.

Attached is an '02 electrical guide. Climate control starts on page 66.

Here's diagrams of both fuse / relay boxes: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...12/#post104244
 
Attached Thumbnails Climate Control Fan stopped working-jaguar-x-type-blower-motor-circuit.png  
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Old Oct 18, 2015 | 12:04 AM
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Meant to attach this Electrical Guide for an '02.......
 
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Old Oct 21, 2015 | 12:15 PM
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vkng7: You're welcome. I'm share your PM here so others with this problem will know that you solved it by replacing fuse F99 (10A).

F99 also powers several interior lights: left & right footwells, map lights, vanity mirrors, rear interior roof, door courtesy lights & trunk light. Did these lights not work before you replaced F99, and now they work again (in addition to the blower motor)?
 
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 03:03 PM
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How much is pertinent in the information here for a 2004 XJ8. Fan stopped blowing. When I push climate control buttons there is a whirring sound, but no blower turn on. Checked fuses that are listed in owners manual. One blown 10 amp fuse in trunk. I replaced it but no help. Thanks for any help you can provide.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2019 | 05:24 PM
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I have a similar issue with my 02 x type. The blower isn't working. The fuse is fine, the relay clicks when I turn the car on, and there is no power to the wires on the blower motor. I took the advice and figured it was the blower motor resistor. I ordered a new one but for the life of me cannot find where it is located on the car. I reviewed the service manuals and where they show it should be it isn't there.

Does anyone know where the blower motor resistor is?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2019 | 12:17 AM
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Craig: The blower resister is next to the blower motor, in the plenum downwind of the blower.

See attached page from the shop manual.

Downwind of the blower is the typical location of blower resistor on most cars, because the blower's air flow is required to cool the resistors.

 
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Old Oct 19, 2019 | 09:11 AM
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Don't forget that the fan in the full auto Climate Control system has no resistor arrangement; its speed is controlled electronically by the CC Module .

The manual air conditioning system does have a resistor speed control system as shown in DWClapp's post.

The fans from the two systems are not interchangeable

.
 

Last edited by astromorg; Oct 19, 2019 at 09:19 AM.
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 10:10 AM
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Thanks for the help! Is this the CC Module you are speaking of or is it a different part that the wiring connects to?

 
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Old Oct 23, 2019 | 04:14 PM
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CC Module = uuuuummmmm. Idk, is it?


 

Last edited by Dell Gailey; Oct 23, 2019 at 04:18 PM.
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