Okay so just when I win a scholar ship and save some money the crank case bearing on my car is done. It used to never whine when starting up in minus 30 and lower. Now it whines everytime till about minus 15 and until its running for about 15 minutes. How important is the crank case bearing to fix. Can I leave it till a later time cuase I really had my eyes set on buying the nikon d7000?

Secondly fuel economy. I had the O2 sensor replaced and the car didn't require a fill up for 17 days, driving about 20kilometers a day on the highway my whole family was amazed. After the fill up, the car barely lasted a week. What could be the problem? And now its even worse.

NOw this one pisses me off to the max. MY Windows won't stay defogged. I turn the heat up, and they are all foggy except the windshield. Its really hard and dangerous to merge and change lanes. All side windows are fogged up to and eventually ice over. How can i Correct this problem.

 

Are you talking about the drive shaft center support bearing as crank case bearings are in the bottom end of the engine and support the crank shaft??? My center support bearing has been singing away for 3 years during the winter months. I have no plans of replacing it.

What are yuo saying about fuel economy? It dropped AFTER the O2 sensor was replaced? If you were going 17 days between fill ups, why did you change the O2 sensor?

Not sure on the last question--others have complained about the X's fogging up amd mines does too to some extent. Is your coolant level all the way up between the min and max line on the expansion tank when it is cold?

 

Do you have the AC compressor running when you try to defrost the windows? You need to dehumidify the air, so have the AC compressor on.

 

Disco, if you are talking about the crank case bearings (not a singular one here) in the bottom of the motor, then you are looking at pulling the motor, tearing it pretty much down to parade rest and building the motor back up. If you are talking about the centering bearing on the rear driveshaft, then that is a fairly easy fix other than getting the bearing pressed off of the rear driveshaft. But, even then, most machine shops can press a bearing on and off for you for a few dollars.

As for your fuel economy, there are so many things that can feed into this, it is really hard to say what is going on with your car.

As for the windows fogging up. I would first start at the A/C compressor. The A/C does run when you have the defrost on (removes the moisture from the air so that dry air runs across your windshield, pulling that much more moisture off of the windshield). You can start the car, turn on the defroster and then open the hood. You can hear the A/C compressor cycling by both hearing the clutch engage and also the engine RPMs dropping periodically. If that is good, then are you getting air out the side vents on the dash. It may be possible you are not getting a damper in the dash to position correctly, which will lead to what you are seeing.

if you need more help, let me know.

 

its a whine when i start the car. Ive been told it could be the crank case bearings.

The O2 sensor was replaced after which i got 17 days between a fill up. I refilled the car and the after that the fuel efficiency dropped, although the fuel economy is saying that im geting 22.3mpg.It has been colder but filling the car up and driving 10kilometers home should not cuase the fuel gauage need to move at all. Mine dips below full.

Thermo, for the side vents closet to the windows, there's barely any air coming out of them when i dont have defrost on with the air coming the passenger face first. And same when i do have defrost on.

How do i correct a damper?

 

Fuel gauges are not linear in response. Especially at the top.

 

Disco, in short, you have to pull the glove box out of the dash, this will give you access to the operators for the dampeners. From there, you will have to remove the correct dampener and reposition it. Let me see what I can find for you to make this a little bit easier for you.

 

thanx thermo. On a same note i tried the recirc button and ac on, and it cleaned the window's well. then today the recirc button did not light up or make a niose as it usually does and the windows became iced over.

 

Maybe some moisture got into the system and froze. That could prevent the dampers from moving to the right position, or could damage some part of the system.

Regarding the "crank case bearings", there are two kinds of bearings inside the crank case. There are connecting rod bearings where the connecting rods connect to the crankshaft, and there are main bearings that hold the crankshaft in place. Usually if a connecting rod bearing goes out, there will be a tapping or banging noise from the bottom of the engine. I am not sure what sound the main bearings would make, but I would expect more of a squeal or screech than a whine. If either is going out, you have a major engine problem. In some cars, it is possible (though not necessarily recommended) to change the bearings without removing the engine from the car. In most cars, that is not even an option, and the engine has to come out.

 

Hmm..the engine works fine, and the niose subsides in warmer tempeature. Ill make a video of the sound when i get around to it. maybe that will help diagnose.

 

Possible power steering pump.

Had it happen on a Denso pump that had the Lucas additive in it. It made the typical groaning/whining noise of a dry power steering pump when dry on cold days until the fluid got warm. It eventually blew the pump seal on a really cold morning at -40C after a 12 hour soak.

If that is your noise, try flushing the power steering system with fresh fluid of the correct type.

Also possible is the grease on your alternator bearings is old and dried out. Same thing with the various belt idlers/tensioners. Common in older cars in cold climates,