I've had many issues with the car I just had many things done to the car valve cover gasket gaskets plugs coils new battery oil change filters changed the first issue I'm having is Cruise not available and performance restricted is running across the message board check engine light is on the battery light is on the car doesn't want to get up to speed it won't go over 75 miles per hour has trouble shifting kind of sputters kind of jerks a little bit when you're driving the car is throwing codes p1582 flight recorder data is stored p1632 generator charge system failure load feedback circuit failure p0450 evaporative emissions control system pressure sensor p0452 evaporator pressure sensor low input this is my first Jaguar I don't know much about these cars I also had an issue with the radio just stopped working one day sometimes I hear the speakers buzzing if anybody has anything to say about this please help thank you in advance

 

1582 is a dealer storage (not fault) code, ignore it. 1632 is alternator fault code. Check the fuse, if good check cable connections and brightly clean them. I'm assuming it is original? Hard to give advice or guidance when you have not followed forum protocol and gone to new member site as required nor have an updated "signature".

If original might be dying/dead. If replacement was recent you need to be sure it's OEM, lots of aftermarket ones cause problems in X's because of the 3 stage charging and nearly always throw the 1582 code and battery failure light on dash stays on even if you check charging on battery cables (not terminals) & get 15+ volts of charging. Here is a link to TSB for Evap diagnosis.


http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...e%20System.pdf

 

Rissa, what motor do you have in the car? If you have a 3.0L or 2.5L motor, if you look on the firewall, tucked back at about the 1 o'clock position (just behind the intake and to the left a little bit) you will see where a vacuum line runs and then you have tubes running to the back of the car. This is your purge valve. Remove that valve from the car and spray some carb cleaner inside of it. I bet that will solve your P0450/0452 codes. This may also be leading to your restricted performance (granted, I would also expect to see a P0171/0174 code too - ie, vacuum leak on banks 1 or 2).

As for the alternator issue, try this for me. Let the car sit for awhile (ie, want the engine cold). Now, open the hood/bonnet of the car. Start the car and turn on everything electrical that you can (ie, dash fan on high, high/main beams, seat heaters, rear window defroster). Let the car run for about 5 minutes this way. Now, using your hand, cup it over (DO NOT TOUCH!!!!!!!!!) each of the battery terminals. Are the battery terminals about the temp of everything else in the engine bay or is it hot (ie, you would burn yourself if you actually touched it, hence why I say not to touch). if it is warm (ie, same temp as the rest of the engine bay), then the battery terminals are good. if they are hot, you have a bad battery cable and that will need to be replaced.

If this simple check doesn't fix your issue and you are willing to put a multimeter to the car, let me know. I can step you through things. I just need to know how familiar you are with using a multimeter. Do not be afraid to tell me you have no clue. I am just trying to figure out how detailed I need to get.

 

interesting post..

I have the cruise not available too. Limp mode and all...

I have been reading every post over the last 4 years and solved this error code many times with different solutions.

Now however I got stuck.. I have no idea.

But I did notice white, residue on the - pool on the battery. Surprising cause it was kinda new.
It does however have enough power, 14,7 when running, 12 when stopped.

Its the v6 3.0 2002 X type.

 

NOrbert, your problem may not be so much that you can't generate the voltage, but that the battery is causing a voltage drop and that is causing the rest of the car to be starved for power. I would say to check your battery terminals and see what you have at that point. Let the car sit over night (get everything cool). Then start up the engine and turn on everything electrical that you can. Now, open the hood and let the car idle like this for 5 minutes. Now, access the battery and cup your hand OVER!!!!! a battery terminal. Then the other. Are the battery posts about the same temp as the rest of the parts under the hood or is one/both HOT!!!! (ie, fry an egg on them, hence why I emphasize hand OVER the terminals). If they are egg frying hot, then you have a bad battery cable. Replace and then see what you have then.

 

Thanks! tried it, this morning.

6 minutes of running idle with all I could find they stayed really cold.
plus slightly warmer but that was only cause it is closer to the engine.

Too bad... would have loved to found the solution like that!

 

Norbert, just to ask a silly question, have you removed the plug on the strut side of the throttle body and taken a look at the connections there? From what you are describing, you may have a corroded connection there and what is happening is the ECU is demanding the throttlebody to open, but it isn't. Since both of the TPS sensors are reading the same, it doesn't question it too much. But, it does see it as an issue and therefore puts you in limp mode. the other problem I have seen is that the brushes in the throttlebody get worn and therefore will not push on the commutator good enough to make good contact and therefore the throttlebody does not respond like it should. Normally this is associated with an error code though too. Unfortunately, to open up the throttlebody, you need a penta-star bit (ie, 5 pointed star bit, aka, a security torx bit) to access the internals. Getting things apart is pretty easy, getting them back together takes a little bit of work. I have had one apart and it was fun getting things back together. I would need to look at the one in my garage to give you any pointers.

 

Thanks!
No, I have not touched that part.. I do however notice that the throttlebody makes surprisingly more noise than I expect when starting and stopping the car ( I do normally not drive it, but I found it loud and "unnecessary" so you might be on to something!

I will check the connectors.. Is there a way to see about the brushes..?
I will start changing the spark plugs on monday when I receive them and the other items I ordered.

But I would love any pointers!!

Thanks again!
N

 

connectors looked ok.. little dusty so I did what I could to clean them.. Should get some contact spray..

the unit however in key mode 2 makes a few clicking noises and also when turning of the engine..
Maybe I hear it better with the bonnet open in the garage, however I do remember noticing it more than I ever did before..

Can I take the side body off, with the 5star or do I need to remove the whole unit first? As said, much appreciated and any pointers very welcome!

N

 

 

Norbert, it isn't anything really complicated. I seem to remember that there is a bar on top of the brush that you can flex a little bit to apply more spring pressure. If you do a search on here for "throttlebody brushes", you should find a lot of threads about getting replacement brushes, the specific size bit needed to tear it apart and also how to put it all back together.

The throttlebody (as I remember) operates on finding a balance between the motor being electrically forced open and a spring pushing the throttle body closed. As more on time is applied (uses a pulsed signal to control the position), this pushes harder against the spring, forcing the butterfly valve open more, which in turn also turns the TPS, telling the car that the throttle is further open. What happens is when the brushes do not make good contact, this adds resistance to the circuit and will cause the car to have to work harder to open the throttle the same amount.

Something that you may want to look into is by the time you get all the tools and spare parts you may need, you are going to possibly have about $100 USD wrapped up into things. For that price, you can find used throttle bodies on say E-bay. That may be an easier way to fix your problem. This problem doesn't seem to affect all throttle bodies. So, if you get a different one, you should be good.

 

Hard to describe clicking noises on a keyboard,

But in key mode 2 it does make a click not hard but like something flips and "clicks" in a position. I noticed now a humming sound with it, bit like the sound a petrol pump makes on a classic car. But it comes from the throttle body!! And with the humming sound is a slightly high pitched noise.. bit like a mosquito...

When I turn key in off mode, it makes a range of clicks, about 5 and the humming sounds stop.

 

I looked for the right screwdriver but indeed I do not have that.. (and I have a lot) so I can not quickly check.
I looked on eBay and indeed they cost little used.

Last night I ordered a good, professional reader. Which will arrive soon, maybe that will tell me more.

Any ideas about the sounds the humming and the high pitch? If this is irregular maybe wise to get a new used one anyway.


I checked for all other (easy) points for my problem Orings changed for the green new ones. As good as I can checked for vacuum leaks. And all now is knock sensor, maybe the MAF (i cleansed the hell out of it), speed sensor, and in service I will change the petrol filter.

Still havent found what I am looking forrrrrrrrrr *singing

 

 

NOrbert, remember that pulsing that I told you about with how the throttle body works. What you are hearing is the motor engaging and disengaging really fast (1,000s of times a second). If you have someone step on the gas to make the throttle body move (need the key in position 2), you should hear that noise change a little bit. As long as it isn't loud, then it is fine.

 

ok.. Gonna try that.

I am waiting for a good reader I ordered . Than I will know more. hopefully..

Happy to know the sounds are not that Bizarre.

 

today the Autel arrived.

And I was able to do the following.

I have read the error codes, and I wanted to test if I could reset them. And that worked. The engine warning light is now of. But the cruise control not available didn't disappear.

The error codes are:

1 - P0037 Ho2S heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2

2 - P1030
Mass or volume air flow A circuit high

3 - P1646
Auxiliary inputs
Auxiliary outputs

4 - P1647
heated oxygen sensor control module
bank 2 open/shorted

Just an update, I will look them over myself later tonight. But eager to hear thoughts ideas and experiences

 

today the Autel arrived.

And I was able to do the following.

I have read the error codes, and I wanted to test if I could reset them. And that worked. The engine warning light is now of. But the cruise control not available didn't disappear.

The error codes are:

1 - P0037 Ho2S heater control circuit low bank 1 sensor 2

2 - P1030
Mass or volume air flow A circuit high

3 - P1646
Auxiliary inputs
Auxiliary outputs

4 - P1647
heated oxygen sensor control module
bank 2 open/shorted

Just an update, I will look them over myself later tonight. But eager to hear thoughts ideas and experiences

My first thoughts are a defect MAF?!?

 

See what,if any codes come back and at least that way you will know what is current and not some isolated thing from a long time agao. Could be a wheel speed sensor and that would be a C code, like C1145, 55, 65 or 75 depending on which corner was bad. Can your code reader read C codes?

 

Thanks

I don't know.. bought this one cause it could do all. But specific C codes.. maybe..
I did a ABS test and that all passed.

I reset the error codes, cleaned the MAF once more. Cleaned the connectors for the 02 sensors.

Drove a little, cruise is still not available but the only code that came back is the p0103 Mass or volume airflow

No other lights, I looked it up. Car's response is to limit power (hence limp mode, hence cruise not available)

So my idea now is just the MAF SENSOR. even after cleaning he remains faulty.

C codes I will look up, I just have this thing the Autel AL619