Just got a 2004 Type X 3.0L and I'm getting a false temperature reading on the dash gauge. OBD reader giving me 220° F and the system is holding pressure and seems to be pumping through when viewing the filler reservoir. Normal low speed driving stays at normal temperature. As soon as there's a load it goes right to red. I have replaced the upper sensor and after purchasing the second sensor that the dealership insisted is somewhere on the block I can't seem to find the location of it. I've searched the forum and called the local dealership with no joy. Please help.

 

220° IS overheating. Try reading these posts, not the sensor in most cases.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-solved-78525/

Post #2 =
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ocation-13190/

 

Thank you Dell.
I should have mentioned that the car was purchased for a low price and some other problems have been corrected. First was the reservoir with a small leak. It appears that the tank was replaced once prior so I opted to repair the damage with epoxy hoping to strengthen the area. Epoxy is holding up and no leaks or loss of coolant. System was draining and new coolant only is currently in the system. A visual inspection shows new thermostat and connecting hoses were recently installed before I obtained it. A gearbox fault and ABS light was keeping the car in limp mode and I feared that maybe the tranny or ABS would need expensive repair or possibly replacement. I disconnected the wiring harness at the ABS pump with the battery still connected but the key in the off position. I then reconnected the ABS pump wiring connector and when I turned the key on I had no more gearbox fault and the ABS and brake light were also not lit on the dash like before. I don't recommend that anyone try this unless you are willing to risk destroying the BCM and possibly other electronic items. I did mention that I paid very little for this car so I was willing to risk resetting it this way. The risk paid off for me. Other repairs I have done are to the door panels and cosmetics. I have not heard anything back from the gearbox and I'm knocking on wood as I write this. I am now back to the cooling system and as I stated before I have replaced the upper sensor with no joy and because the thermostat and water pump appear to be a new ones I've got this short, pointed, block sensor that could be wrong or it may be the fix. By the way I researched normal running temperatures and found that 220° F is at the upper end of normal but not considered outside of normal operation. I live in Southern California and the temperatures are regularly in the 60s even in early March. I hope someone can now please show me or tell me where to stick this block sensor that the dealership insists is part of my cooling system. I realize that the thermostat could be malfunctioning for a number of reasons but I also want to install this sensor into the elusive spot to give me peace of mind and some much needed sleep. A million thanks to everyone that is still reading and anyone who can help me. Aloha, Pete.

 

There are only 2 electrical components involved with the cooling system. 1 is the ECT temp sensor located on the top and 2 isthe Block heater located on the engine block next to the oil cooler. It would help to see the sensor you are try to install. Please post a pic. Attached is a pic of where the block heater is mounted and a pic of the heater. The block heater came installed on vehicles where there is extreme cold weather and is not found on all engines.
At a running temp of 220 you have a cooling system problem. The cooling fans are supposed to come on and both fans running on high at 212 to keep temp below that. The ECT sends a signal to the ECM (engine control module) and the ECM then sends a signal to the fan control module to control fan speeds. The fans are variable speed. The other signal come from the A/C control module to the ECM and signals that the A/C is operating. The ECM then signals both fans to run on high.
After a short warm up drive and with the A/C on and the engine idling both fans should be running full speed.
Since you say that temp rises while driving that would indicate a bad thermostat, bad water pump or a clogged radiator and last possibly low coolant. The system is a HIGH velocity LOW capacity design. Try taking it for a drive and set the heater on high. The let the system cool down and check the coolant level. You may have an air bubble in the heater core causing poor circulation.
You need to check all of the above and determine why you are overheating.

 

I went and looked @ my OBD info after resetting P0455 & P0456 codes & taking my kitty on a 150 mile round trip with OBD recording the drive. I admitted in another post I'm not familiar with all the readings I logged. BUT, I can read the coolant temperature ok, lol. At start up = low obviously. Waited until car was completely warm before setting out, it read (conversions here as Torque was set to C not F. = was 197°. The drive was highway speeds of around 60 m.p.h. With slower small town(s) of 45 m.p.h. The temperature was steady between 180° F & 185°F. Stopping at 75 miles, getting a drink, bathroom break it obviously dropped temperature. I will also mention this trip is not a flat terrain trip. It goes through a mountain pass going from 4200 feet to 5,900 ft & down to 4,500 ft. Additionally, I ALWAYS have automatic temperature set on the interior with A/C enabled, so the fans are of course running full. Return trip is opposite of course. Temperature on return was the same 180° F to 185° F. Then after the drive, I sat in the car parked fiddling with things and the temp rose to around 193°F before I shut it off and unplugged the OBD.

 

Btw, there were several stop light stops in the smaller towns, too. The temp never wavered (same as driving at speed).

 

Thanks avern1,
i returned the sensor su284vc because you advised that there is only one and I already replaced it. Thanks for all the help and I will keep you posted on the water pump replacement. Aloha. Pete

 

I know this is kind of an after the fact post , but I just recently joined. I found that by pressurizing the cooling system and using the good old squirt bottle of soapy water I was able to find leak at one of the cooler pipe o rings that would pass air(pressure) but not liquid coolant..never ran across this in all my life...replaced the o ring and everything went back to normal. I guess they are finicky when it comes to the pressure loss. I would think that jaguar designed cooling systems the same in operational theory for certain model years..it was tedious but it worked