so my gf's 02 x-type had no sound in 3 of the 4 door speakers (tweaters worked fine still) all of a sudden(have a feeling the 4th is about to go)
so i figured hey lets just check the wires before i buy new speakers (allowing me to blow a few $ on my own car..LOL). well great news..kinda.. one of the 2 wires on the speaker has lost its connection, the speaker is not blown, it is just not receiving the signal.
so here is a pic of what i did.
it was simple, just test the speaker with a 9volt battery,connect it to the plug, if no sound then connect it to the 2 wites comming off the cone, if you get any sort of sound..your speaker is potentially still good, this mean the connection is broken, not the speaker.

next determine where the connection is lost between the speaker cone and the connecter, mine on all 3 turned out to be in the same spot, right where they soddered the wires to the connector. to test this use a volt meter and put it on the sound setting where when a signal from the + and - meet it beeps, test a few point till you narrow it down to the exact point where the connection is broken.

now the connecter is coated in a little plastic right where they soddered the wire to the connector so i couldnt just add more sodder to repair the connection, so basically i bypassed a small section by soddering a new wire onto the wire from the cone and then sodder the other end onto the connecter.

next use the volt meter and test again with the beep from the cone wire to where the door speaker wire connects to the speaker...if it beeps now and didnt before...you just repaired your speaker and it only cost about 2cents.

door pannel removal....now, i have noticed there is not a DIY or even a pic of the back of the pannels..so to avoid anyone breaking some tabs i think i should take some pics and explain what way to push, pull, pop each door pannel before you break something and wake the neighbours (at 2 am) form yelling curse words for a plastic tab that will cost you over $100 to replace because it is actually part of the door pannel...its actually not that hard and doesnt require much force.
i will start a new thread and put in links to both this one and the other one in each so they are easy to navigate.

any questions feel free to ask.
hope this comes in handy for someone, i figure since 3 of the speakers went this must be fairly common since they were all the exact same issue.

enjoy and good luck

DOOR PANNEL REMOVAL - https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...944#post132944

 

As the name implies, by day, 1avguy is actually a professional consultant in audio and AV systems.

Best tip: Don't use a 9V battery to test speakers especially do not be tempted to test tweeeters this way. Use a portable radio headphone output or some other low level audio source the DC current from the 9V battery pushes the cone forward or backward to the physical limits. The voice coil is then a slow acting fuse in self destruct mode.

If testing tweeters, it is best to run that signal through the crossover first, then use that as your test signal. That will keep the low frequency part of the audio signal from frying the tweeters.

Another good idea is to test your audio source with a test speaker before you hunt around so you know you have your level about right and do not miss a signal because it was too low or fry a speaker turning it up a little at a time and then wow the connection is made and comes through at high level.

Best of Luck.
Steven (1avguy)

 

-------------------AvGuy-----------------------------------------------
i did check the signal comming into the speaker first..nd it was there this is why i did this with the speaker.
ive always used a 9volt battery to test speakers, but just by rubbing the wires to make it give a little staatic...i dont hook it up and leave it...but ill take your word for it that its bad.
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now.... here is the 3rd speaker...i was unable to find a connection on + and - on this one so i did it a little different...i think its better.

i used a dremil and put a small hole in the plastic speaker housing so i could run the new connection through it. i used blue and orange wires so it is easier to see on here in the pic.
next i soddered the new wire to the wires comming from the cone ran it through the hole and soddered it to the connecter for the speaker input.
did this for both + and -
if i was to do it again i would probably drill 2 holes just to make soddering a little easier but this wasnt bad at all.
so here is a pic.

 

Ghettomike,

I cant see the detail because pictures a little fuzzy, not sure if connection point is along same conductor path as original, presuming it is, looks like you bypassed connection issue ok. The tighter you can keep the connection point to the terminal so as to give the greatest lead length for flexing the better. Not worth changing what you have done, looks fine, not likely to be a problem.

Good luck.
Steven
(1avguy)

 

the wire has more than enough slack on the side with the cone so i dont think ill run into the same issue again.... i just soddered it onto the same metal just closer to the input. its working perfect.
im not a electronics expert but i can hack it sometimes

 

Thanks alot,
My front and rear passenger side speakers suddenly stopped working. Then I tried this before going and replacing them and it worked perfectly! Thanks again for the help

 

glad it helped you.

 

GhettoMike,
thanks for the help, there are several people who have replaced their speakers, I always wondered why so many stopped working.

I do have to point out that the word is soldered.... not soddered.

(there are no less than 3 apostrophe mistakes too in your last post and other grammar errors!- LOL - no offence, as per your name, maybe you grew up in a ghetto with poor english education.)

 

nice thanks to this post, I am going to replace front and rear door speakers with some Rockford fosgate punch component kits.. nice and well appreciated.