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Door 'Guard/Trim/Strip Removal Project....

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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 08:33 PM
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Default Door 'Guard/Trim/Strip Removal Project....

Anyone know if the door strips on the outside of the doors that run along the extent of the body 'horizontally' are simply installed with adhesive or are there rivets? I am planning on removing them to update the look of the X-type, since these are extremely outdated styling cues. I have seen some XK8 owners remove them flawlessly on here, and it looks great!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:31 AM
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Seriously? NOBODY knows? Jaguar certified techs?
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:09 AM
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Guaranteed they are rivetted on, the moulding clips onto the rivetted clips. Usually mounted into the body every 12-18 inches. you'll need a good welder to fill the holes and not distort the metal around them. I actually like the moulding, saves my car from the parking lot morons.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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The Ford Fusion, Mazda6, and the Lincoln MKZ owners forums have all been taking their door guards off with no problems, just 2-sided tape. Since These are all ford manufactured like the X-type, I'm going to assume there are no clips of any kind. I'm going to pull them off. It's going to look so clean. If i encounter any rivets, i'll stop

The door guards look incredibly 'dated,' and serve little purpose, especially when i park away from everyone.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:47 AM
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Link:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/d...02/#post215924
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:59 AM
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Hmmm, I've got a heat gun. as long as I keep it far enough from the paint it would speed the process up.

Take a picture after you have finished, I'd be interested in seeing the new look.

You would think that the moulding would be held on by more that 2 sided tape.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:38 PM
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I have pulled one of the door trim pieces off of my car due to the tape not sticking any more on 1 edge. You can remove the trim pieces with no holes left behind. May look a little funny with the marker light behind the front wheels with nothing next to it.

As for how I took mine off, I used the trim piece to pull off a majority of tape, then I used a combination of my finger and Goo-B-Gone to get the rest of the sticky off. The trick with using your finger is to always have some of the glue left behind and use the old stuff to roll into a ball and use that to pull up the old stuff vice using your finger to rub it off. I have in the past been good with using some paint stripper in removing the old sticky too. Just need to watch the cloth so you don't start seeing color. But, as long as you keep the amount of thinner down, you are fine. The thinner will eat the foam tape long before it gets into the paint.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Thermo
I have pulled one of the door trim pieces off of my car due to the tape not sticking any more on 1 edge. You can remove the trim pieces with no holes left behind. May look a little funny with the marker light behind the front wheels with nothing next to it.

As for how I took mine off, I used the trim piece to pull off a majority of tape, then I used a combination of my finger and Goo-B-Gone to get the rest of the sticky off. The trick with using your finger is to always have some of the glue left behind and use the old stuff to roll into a ball and use that to pull up the old stuff vice using your finger to rub it off. I have in the past been good with using some paint stripper in removing the old sticky too. Just need to watch the cloth so you don't start seeing color. But, as long as you keep the amount of thinner down, you are fine. The thinner will eat the foam tape long before it gets into the paint.
THANK YOU Thermo!
Thermo, is there an 'indention' where the trim is, or is it flat? I'm going to attempt this tonight, since the car is getting a full detail on friday.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 05:09 PM
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Bond, please post a pic after you get done, been waiting to see someone do this.

Thanks-
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 06:07 PM
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I'm interested in seeing how this turns out... I would replace the side markers with something round probably because the normal shape might look a little weird with no trim strip.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:19 PM
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I have the black side markers, so I don't think it will look that bad, But, I can always have it filled or black vinyl decal wrap it...Haven't thought that aspect through yet.

so far, the front doors look WAYYYY better than before. I promise to post pix after it's all off and fully detailed by the shop.
The door guards really steal from the clean shape and flow of the car, the strips just make it so 'busy.'
I think the side vents that EXEPAT has on his X-Type would look better without these on here...
 

Last edited by j_bond; Mar 24, 2011 at 10:32 AM.
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ufoz8mycow
I'm interested in seeing how this turns out... I would replace the side markers with something round probably because the normal shape might look a little weird with no trim strip.
I think it might look weird to 'us' only because we are accustomed to looking for it. I'll test that theory when I'm done
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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you must post pictures, you must!
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:52 PM
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just thought I'd post this since it's similar to our X-Type, this S-Type has no side moldings, and I think it looks much cleaner
 
Attached Thumbnails Door 'Guard/Trim/Strip Removal Project....-29815130144_large.jpg  
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:55 PM
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Opposed to this...
 
Attached Thumbnails Door 'Guard/Trim/Strip Removal Project....-38940354001_large.jpg  
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 11:36 PM
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I think it will be good. I doubt there is an indent there. Doesn't anyone have the JTIS running - I don't on the machine I am currently on, but will check on Friday when I get home.
 
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Old Mar 24, 2011 | 10:33 AM
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Before I start the rear doors, has anyone found info if there are mounting pegs or anything on them. The fronts were just adhesive. I typo'd earlier.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:21 PM
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Looks like none of them have clips. Quoting JTIS:

Door Moulding Apply suitable protective tape to adjacent areas of paintworks.Using a hand-held heat gun, apply heat uniformly along the moulding length.Applying local heat at one end and using a suitable thin lever to avoid damaging paintwork, progessively ease the moulding away from the door panel.Discard the moulding and remove protective tape.Remove any residual adhesive and thoroughly clean area using white spirit.Optimum adhesion is achieved by warming body panel and moulding to 30°C (86°F)Using white spirit make sure that mounting area is clean, dry and de-greased.Remove protective backing tape from the moulding.Do not allow the moulding to contact the body panel until it is correctly aligned.Aligning with adjacent mouldings or to match opposite side of vehicle, press the new moulding firmly onto the body panel.Apply hand pressure along the moulding length to make sure satisfactory adhesion.Allow the moulding and door panel to cool, then thoroughly clean both using white spirit.Apply a coat of suitable polish to the moulding and body.

I may go into the garage and do mine. Sounds pretty easy with a heat gun.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 11:33 PM
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EXEPAT, it's going to look soooooo good on your car!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 12:55 AM
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This is a message to lurkers and searchers of the future. Don't do this, I found holes under the rear door moldings. Removing these moldings will require paint on metallic colors or precise bodywork and good airbrushing on non-metallic colors.
 
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