Easy TC Fluid Change
#1
11-16-2008, 07:25 PM
Easy TC Fluid Change
Well, I have finally completed my easy transfer case (TC)
fluid change and am pleased to say that it works.
First, let me give credit to Anthony Hladun and all those
others who have done this in various manners before. I want
to acknowledge that I used all your good work as a
foundation for my method.
What I wanted to do was to come up with a method and
associated hardware that would be easy enough to do so that
I could change it as often as I wanted to and I needed to be
able to do it on an automatic transmission car where the
space is very tight. I also wanted to avoid cobbling
together bits and pieces if possible.
The solution I came up with was a one-way valve to replace
the drain plug and a pump that would meter the fluid you
pumped in.
The valve I had made is shown in the pictures below. The
valve body is high carbon steel with male pipe threads to
allow it to screw into the transfer case in place of the
drain plug. The valve body and gate or plunger are carbon
steel, the spring is stainless steel, and the seal is Dupont
Viton rated for use with petroleum products. The cracking
pressure on the valve is only .125 PSI and the length of the
valve is 1.3". I chose this length so that the open end of
the valve is slightly recessed into the pocket of the TC
when the valve is snugged into place. (See picture #6 below)
In addition, I fashioned a 90 degree elbow with a short male
nipple so that I could thread it into the valve in the small
space available in automatic transmission cars and purchased
a 2" nipple and reducer that screw into the elbow, a
magnetic drain plug to fit the female (open) end of the
valve, a roll of petroleum specific Teflon sealing tape, and
a CRC hand pump that delivers 1 fl. oz. per stroke.
Here's what I did (see pictures below).
1. Remove the drain plug (My TC was dry!!!)
2. Install the valve with Teflon tape sealant specific to
petroleum applications
3. Install the elbow loosely (two turns was sufficient)
4. Install the reducer and nipple loosely
5. Slide the flexible plastic hose from the pump over the
nipple
6. Pump 400 ml (13 strokes) of approved gear lube into the TC
7. Remove the pump, nipple, and elbow leaving the gate
valve to hold the fluid in the TC
8. Install the magnetic plug into the female end of the
valve to protect it from the elements and to serve as a
back-up seal.
I pumped in 400 ml because that is the amount you can drain
from a correctly filled TC using the drain plug. I am
attempting to source the valve with a magnetic gate but do
know if that will be possible. The valve I had made cost me
over $50.00 as is but buying in small quantities may lower
the price. All in I have ~$100.00 into the system using
one-off sourcing without the gear lube. I am exploring
sourcing small quantities and offering all the parts with
detailed instructions as kits. The installed product looks
quite professional IMHO.
[IMG]local://upfiles/2710/FC2AF373171F4F36B25ED5B42961A159.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2710/F2476E08FDA94018A222EEFB2AC51A53.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2710/61981AAA37154B3580CF0983A08DFC74.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2710/9217CCAFB0AB44F1B5ECBB1106E4E935.jpg[/IMG]
fluid change and am pleased to say that it works.
First, let me give credit to Anthony Hladun and all those
others who have done this in various manners before. I want
to acknowledge that I used all your good work as a
foundation for my method.
What I wanted to do was to come up with a method and
associated hardware that would be easy enough to do so that
I could change it as often as I wanted to and I needed to be
able to do it on an automatic transmission car where the
space is very tight. I also wanted to avoid cobbling
together bits and pieces if possible.
The solution I came up with was a one-way valve to replace
the drain plug and a pump that would meter the fluid you
pumped in.
The valve I had made is shown in the pictures below. The
valve body is high carbon steel with male pipe threads to
allow it to screw into the transfer case in place of the
drain plug. The valve body and gate or plunger are carbon
steel, the spring is stainless steel, and the seal is Dupont
Viton rated for use with petroleum products. The cracking
pressure on the valve is only .125 PSI and the length of the
valve is 1.3". I chose this length so that the open end of
the valve is slightly recessed into the pocket of the TC
when the valve is snugged into place. (See picture #6 below)
In addition, I fashioned a 90 degree elbow with a short male
nipple so that I could thread it into the valve in the small
space available in automatic transmission cars and purchased
a 2" nipple and reducer that screw into the elbow, a
magnetic drain plug to fit the female (open) end of the
valve, a roll of petroleum specific Teflon sealing tape, and
a CRC hand pump that delivers 1 fl. oz. per stroke.
Here's what I did (see pictures below).
1. Remove the drain plug (My TC was dry!!!)
2. Install the valve with Teflon tape sealant specific to
petroleum applications
3. Install the elbow loosely (two turns was sufficient)
4. Install the reducer and nipple loosely
5. Slide the flexible plastic hose from the pump over the
nipple
6. Pump 400 ml (13 strokes) of approved gear lube into the TC
7. Remove the pump, nipple, and elbow leaving the gate
valve to hold the fluid in the TC
8. Install the magnetic plug into the female end of the
valve to protect it from the elements and to serve as a
back-up seal.
I pumped in 400 ml because that is the amount you can drain
from a correctly filled TC using the drain plug. I am
attempting to source the valve with a magnetic gate but do
know if that will be possible. The valve I had made cost me
over $50.00 as is but buying in small quantities may lower
the price. All in I have ~$100.00 into the system using
one-off sourcing without the gear lube. I am exploring
sourcing small quantities and offering all the parts with
detailed instructions as kits. The installed product looks
quite professional IMHO.
[IMG]local://upfiles/2710/FC2AF373171F4F36B25ED5B42961A159.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2710/F2476E08FDA94018A222EEFB2AC51A53.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2710/61981AAA37154B3580CF0983A08DFC74.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]local://upfiles/2710/9217CCAFB0AB44F1B5ECBB1106E4E935.jpg[/IMG]
#2
11-16-2008, 08:07 PM
#3
11-16-2008, 08:08 PM
RE: Easy TC Fluid Change
looks very cool. I'd be interested in doing this myself, but if you made it all available in kit form, it'd probably tempt me away from spending all the time tracking down parts.. so I'd say you're onto something there.
I am interested in how accurate the "13 pumps" method of measuring lube is?
I am interested in how accurate the "13 pumps" method of measuring lube is?
#4
11-16-2008, 10:11 PM
RE: Easy TC Fluid Change
Pretty accurate. The pump is designed to pump exactly 1 fl. oz per stroke. The conversion ratio is 1 fl oz = 29.574 ml. So, 13 pumps times 29.574 equals 384 ml, a pretty good measure.
The pump I used is a CRC #SL4344 pump. You can see it here
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6847610
CRC's Sta-Lube Syn GO 75W 140 Synthetic is what I used because it states right on the label that is meets the JTIS M2C192A synthetic, SAE 75W140 synthetic gear lubricant specifications. In addition, the SL4344 pump fits the bottle the lube comes in. If enough of us do this, over time, we'll gather some emperical data on using different lubes like Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, etc.
Since draining and refilling is so easy, about 10 minutes total with the front tires on ramps allowing 8 of those minutes for the fluid to drain, I did mine on Saturday, drove the car about 20 miles Saturday night, then drained and refilled again on Sunday. I got a very very muddy drain on Sunday. I'll do it again next weekend and probably repeat it till the fluid looks more acceptable. I'm actually flushing out who knows how many miles of crud and poor lubrication out of the TC right now. Once I have the fluid draining in a moderately clear state with a week of driving, I'll go to a regular maintenance type drain and refill schedule, maybe every 10,000 or 15,000 miles.
The real joy here is how easy it is to do now.
I'll get some small lot pricing (12 to 24 unit runs) on the valves this week.
The pump I used is a CRC #SL4344 pump. You can see it here
http://www.hardwareandtools.com/invt/6847610
CRC's Sta-Lube Syn GO 75W 140 Synthetic is what I used because it states right on the label that is meets the JTIS M2C192A synthetic, SAE 75W140 synthetic gear lubricant specifications. In addition, the SL4344 pump fits the bottle the lube comes in. If enough of us do this, over time, we'll gather some emperical data on using different lubes like Mobil 1, Redline, Royal Purple, etc.
Since draining and refilling is so easy, about 10 minutes total with the front tires on ramps allowing 8 of those minutes for the fluid to drain, I did mine on Saturday, drove the car about 20 miles Saturday night, then drained and refilled again on Sunday. I got a very very muddy drain on Sunday. I'll do it again next weekend and probably repeat it till the fluid looks more acceptable. I'm actually flushing out who knows how many miles of crud and poor lubrication out of the TC right now. Once I have the fluid draining in a moderately clear state with a week of driving, I'll go to a regular maintenance type drain and refill schedule, maybe every 10,000 or 15,000 miles.
The real joy here is how easy it is to do now.
I'll get some small lot pricing (12 to 24 unit runs) on the valves this week.
#5
11-18-2008, 09:50 PM
#7
11-19-2008, 05:42 AM
Trending Topics
#8
11-19-2008, 07:52 AM
RE: Easy TC Fluid Change
Thanks for all the replies.
I did not use a torch. The valve is strictly a screw in to the drain plug hole replacement. I did not need to clearance anything in either the test mule TC or the one in my car. The length of the valve is such that the wrench flats are at the outside edge of the valve and clear the TC quite well. A 7/8" open end wrench grabs the valve very easily and taking it out or putting it back in is literally a 30 second operation. The length of it makes it much easier to install or remove than the original drain pug which sits down in the recess.
Also, interestingly enough, the valve appears to hold the fluid in quite well without the magnetic plug I insert in the end of it after filling. When I remove the valve to do a drain and refill, the body of the valve is quite dry, so the fluid is being held in by the valve gate, not the magnetic plug in the end of the valve. I always install the magnetic plug anyway to protect the valve, but the gate appears to seal quite well even though the spring pressure is so low.
My '03 has ~72,000 miles on it. I believe that the fluid change and fill has made some difference in the noise level, but that may just be wishfull thinking. What I am sure of is that a TC with the correct amount of clean gear lube will last much longer than a dry one will.
I did not use a torch. The valve is strictly a screw in to the drain plug hole replacement. I did not need to clearance anything in either the test mule TC or the one in my car. The length of the valve is such that the wrench flats are at the outside edge of the valve and clear the TC quite well. A 7/8" open end wrench grabs the valve very easily and taking it out or putting it back in is literally a 30 second operation. The length of it makes it much easier to install or remove than the original drain pug which sits down in the recess.
Also, interestingly enough, the valve appears to hold the fluid in quite well without the magnetic plug I insert in the end of it after filling. When I remove the valve to do a drain and refill, the body of the valve is quite dry, so the fluid is being held in by the valve gate, not the magnetic plug in the end of the valve. I always install the magnetic plug anyway to protect the valve, but the gate appears to seal quite well even though the spring pressure is so low.
My '03 has ~72,000 miles on it. I believe that the fluid change and fill has made some difference in the noise level, but that may just be wishfull thinking. What I am sure of is that a TC with the correct amount of clean gear lube will last much longer than a dry one will.
#10
11-19-2008, 02:58 PM
Veteran member
RE: Easy TC Fluid Change
Very impressive Wild Bill, alot of x-type owners will definately benefit from your hard work, and if you do make a small business out of building these connection/pump systems, that's a definate bonus. The TC is one of the big unknowns on these x's. Great job on making it easier to maintain.
#15
11-27-2008, 10:27 AM
RE: Easy TC Fluid Change
I've ordered six valves, pumps, and magnetic drain plugs. Everything else I source locally.
The valves will be here in about two weeks. My cost on the parts is ~ $80.00, most of which is the valve.
I'm going to sell the kits on ebay for $99.00 but for any of the folks on this board or Jag Lovers who emails me I will be glad to send you the kit for $80.00.
I'll email everyone who expressed an interest in the system with details when I have delivery or delivery confirmation on the parts.
As for fluid, I've been using Sta-Lube Syn GO 75W 140 Synthetic which states M2C192A compliance on the label. M2C192A is the Ford/Jaguar spec for the TC fluid. However, there is a small wrinkle here. The Ford/Jaguar spec states that the fluid has a "Friction Modifier" but the Sta-Lube specifically states on the label, the same label that claims M2C192A compliance, that it does not contain a friction modifier and they recommend either "Trans X Posi Trac" or "Sta-Lube Equa Torque" for applications that require a friction modifier.
Now I suspect that these friction modifiers are probably spec'd more for the rear differential than for the transfer case, but I have no way to tell for sure. To be on the safe side, I bought a tube of the Trans X and added it to my two quart container of Syn Go. The pump as I send it to you is set up to fit on the two quart bottle of Syn Go. Just unscrew the top off the Syn Go and screw on the pump. So, my recommendation for lube is Syn Go with either of the friction modifiers I mentioned, but feel free to use whatever you see fit.
I got my Syn GO at a local NAPA and the Trans X at an Auto Zone.
It's not that I don't like Royal Purple or Red Line or Mobil 1; it's just that I can't nail them down as far as suitability.
For example. Mobil 1 will not, in my communications with them, state that their lube meets or exceeds the specification for the transfer case fluid. Here is the response I got from Mobil 1 concerning their fluids for the Jag. My question is in bold, their responses italicized:
"I'm going to drain and refill the transfer case and rear end on the X-Type. I'd like to go with a Mobil 1 product. The spec on the fluid is JTIS Spec: M2C192A synthetic SAE 75W140 synthetic gear lubricant. The only thing I've found that specifically meets the spec is Sta-Lube Syn GO 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Lube. Again, I know and trust Mobil 1 but I need to know if your product meets or exceeds the JTIS spec and is there any compatibility issue between Mobil 1 and any small residue of the original fluid that might be left after I drain the original fluid."
"Due to your car needed special requirements we would recommend that you as Jaguar what they will allow you to put in the vehicle. Our Gear Lubricant meets GL-5 but that is not enough in our minds to recommend that product to you without Jaguars approval."
I suspect that, since the spec was written 8 years ago now, the above mentioned lubes are better than the spec. Problem is, I can't get verification.
I'll be compiling information on who uses what fluid. My hope is that as folks install the kit and change the TC lube regularly, they'll let me know what they used and how it worked. Then we'll have some empirical data on what lubes really make the TC last.
Bill
The valves will be here in about two weeks. My cost on the parts is ~ $80.00, most of which is the valve.
I'm going to sell the kits on ebay for $99.00 but for any of the folks on this board or Jag Lovers who emails me I will be glad to send you the kit for $80.00.
I'll email everyone who expressed an interest in the system with details when I have delivery or delivery confirmation on the parts.
As for fluid, I've been using Sta-Lube Syn GO 75W 140 Synthetic which states M2C192A compliance on the label. M2C192A is the Ford/Jaguar spec for the TC fluid. However, there is a small wrinkle here. The Ford/Jaguar spec states that the fluid has a "Friction Modifier" but the Sta-Lube specifically states on the label, the same label that claims M2C192A compliance, that it does not contain a friction modifier and they recommend either "Trans X Posi Trac" or "Sta-Lube Equa Torque" for applications that require a friction modifier.
Now I suspect that these friction modifiers are probably spec'd more for the rear differential than for the transfer case, but I have no way to tell for sure. To be on the safe side, I bought a tube of the Trans X and added it to my two quart container of Syn Go. The pump as I send it to you is set up to fit on the two quart bottle of Syn Go. Just unscrew the top off the Syn Go and screw on the pump. So, my recommendation for lube is Syn Go with either of the friction modifiers I mentioned, but feel free to use whatever you see fit.
I got my Syn GO at a local NAPA and the Trans X at an Auto Zone.
It's not that I don't like Royal Purple or Red Line or Mobil 1; it's just that I can't nail them down as far as suitability.
For example. Mobil 1 will not, in my communications with them, state that their lube meets or exceeds the specification for the transfer case fluid. Here is the response I got from Mobil 1 concerning their fluids for the Jag. My question is in bold, their responses italicized:
"I'm going to drain and refill the transfer case and rear end on the X-Type. I'd like to go with a Mobil 1 product. The spec on the fluid is JTIS Spec: M2C192A synthetic SAE 75W140 synthetic gear lubricant. The only thing I've found that specifically meets the spec is Sta-Lube Syn GO 75W-140 Synthetic Gear Lube. Again, I know and trust Mobil 1 but I need to know if your product meets or exceeds the JTIS spec and is there any compatibility issue between Mobil 1 and any small residue of the original fluid that might be left after I drain the original fluid."
"Due to your car needed special requirements we would recommend that you as Jaguar what they will allow you to put in the vehicle. Our Gear Lubricant meets GL-5 but that is not enough in our minds to recommend that product to you without Jaguars approval."
I suspect that, since the spec was written 8 years ago now, the above mentioned lubes are better than the spec. Problem is, I can't get verification.
I'll be compiling information on who uses what fluid. My hope is that as folks install the kit and change the TC lube regularly, they'll let me know what they used and how it worked. Then we'll have some empirical data on what lubes really make the TC last.
Bill
#16
11-27-2008, 10:45 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Easy TC Fluid Change
Hi, GOod work,
Can you tell me where you read that the ford spec oil has LS additives? i was under the impression of the opposite.
For sure the X-type does not have any limited slip parts to either the TC or the rear diff. So the additive is not needed at all.
THe local dealer for me does not sell the ford spec oil they showed me a bottle of Castrol SAF-XJ which they bring in themselves from europe. (Castrol NA does not sell SAF_XJ) they wanted over $90 per litre. SAF-XJ has the LS additives (which we dont need)
When I spoke to Redline They assured me that their MTLis equivalent with the SAF-XJ . They also sell MTL-NS (without the LS additives) I used the MTL, although I am confident that MTL-NS will work.
I dont think the jag (ford) spec oil is so special. Somehow people are under the impression it is. Any brandfull synthetic 75W140 GL5 changed annually will be excellent for the TC.
Can you tell me where you read that the ford spec oil has LS additives? i was under the impression of the opposite.
For sure the X-type does not have any limited slip parts to either the TC or the rear diff. So the additive is not needed at all.
THe local dealer for me does not sell the ford spec oil they showed me a bottle of Castrol SAF-XJ which they bring in themselves from europe. (Castrol NA does not sell SAF_XJ) they wanted over $90 per litre. SAF-XJ has the LS additives (which we dont need)
When I spoke to Redline They assured me that their MTLis equivalent with the SAF-XJ . They also sell MTL-NS (without the LS additives) I used the MTL, although I am confident that MTL-NS will work.
I dont think the jag (ford) spec oil is so special. Somehow people are under the impression it is. Any brandfull synthetic 75W140 GL5 changed annually will be excellent for the TC.
#17
11-27-2008, 10:02 PM
#18
11-28-2008, 08:28 AM
#19
11-28-2008, 09:57 AM
RE: Easy TC Fluid Change
ORIGINAL: John Mac
Nice job Bill
Put me one the list for one of the kits . Mine is a manual i assume it will work ok on those as well. (Clearance not an issue?.)
Thanks
John.
Nice job Bill
Put me one the list for one of the kits . Mine is a manual i assume it will work ok on those as well. (Clearance not an issue?.)
Thanks
John.
and THANKS!
