Anyone care to share which access point they used to run their amp power wire? I was thinking driver side there is a grommet there for quite a few wires...

Unless someone else has a better location or access point.

 

I would love to know this also .

 

You don't need to go through the firewall, there is already a [live] direct battery feed that powers the fuse box in the driver's footwell. Gives you a cleaner looking install as well.

See the image in the link...it's the big bolt at the top that's partially covered by a rubber piece.

Jaguar x-type 2.0d silver 2004 | Unlimited Photo Storage

 

You just rocked my world..thanks!

 

Btw could not locate that area with the wire. Just ran the power wire through the grommet on the driver side ran a 4 gauge wire through there. Works fine and was easy t access.

 

was just wondering to avoid running wire through the hole can I connect a 4 gauge cable to the fuse box live feed in the footwell or should the 4gauge wire should be connected directly to battery?

 

Ya if you have the feed like some do, mine did not have it so I chose to run it to the battery, someone pointed to a link of it and my jag does not have the area he pointed out...or I couldn't find it...you should be okay with that location for running a power wire.

 

If your aftermarket sound system is going to draw 30+ amps (400watts RMS or better) I would not recommend wiring directly to that fuse box. There will be too much current/heat for the pastic to handle. Besides, seems like a really bad area for something to go wrong.
You are better of wiring directly to the battery and your amps will thank you. Unfortunately the only good place I've found to accommodate 0 gauge wire is the grommet under the drivers seat which is not at a good angle. Have held off on my install....still waiting for my front stage.

 

Ya I wired through my drivers side...its not bad at all..it does angle up but use a long 3/8" socket extension to make the hole large enough and boom goes right through, super easy buck definitely awkward at first but when you get it through it feeds nicely

 

Word of caution--ANY WIRE run from ANY power source should be fused as close as possible to the amp-draw of the component, especially that high of draw, or you will run the risk a burnt up Citty Cat and if it;s sitting in your garage at night, your house. Last year I know of at least two houses burnt down from car fires and at least a couple more sitting along the highway from shorted out wiring. Friends don't let Friends wire without fuses.

 

ye my amp although being class D is pulling atleast 700 watts RMS total. the amp is a Pyle PBLA530FRD 6800watts one. although pyle claims rms rating at half of that they always over rate their amps it only produces about 25%. pyle recommends 0/4 gauge wire for power and ground so although i purchased 8 gauge amp kit for it before but i purchased a 4 gauge kit now. the amp will be mounted on the parcel shelf (underneath it).

 

kashaf, I would not wire that amp off of the factory fuse box. Even though your amps advertised power output is over-rated it still has plenty power and draws plenty current. You can get away with 4 gauge wire and a 30 amp fuse. Let us know how the install goes.

 

ye just waiting for my exams to finish. I am thinking of installing attaching the amp to the rear parcel shelf since i do not want it getting in the way of me using the trunk. Want to install it on the left side because there are 2 ground locations there. Apparently the bottom half of the parcel shelf has plastic which is screwed on. I was wondering If I could open it make four holes in it for 4 longs bolts (maybe 4 inches) and then screw the plastic bit back onto the parcel shelf. Then Just put the amplifier through those four bolts and tighten with a locking nut. This would save me cutting a piece of wood the right size and shape etc and make everything so much easier. The speakers and subs i have ordered are these ones:

POLK Audio DB6501 4 speakers 4 tweeters and 4 crossovers rated at 200WATTRMS/Pair
Kicker 10CVT654 Component Subs x2 rates at 300WATT RMS/Pair

Since the speakers are currently wired in the Jag are fibreoptic I think I'll put in my own wiring from speakers to amp. cant wait to do it tbh, although its not extremely high quality system I am still hoping to get a decent crisp sound with a decent enough bass.

 

Kashaf, that is decent combination of gear. While nothing "high end" it will be a vast improvement over OEM. I'm assuming you mean on the underside of the parcel tray? Between? That would work. There is no shortage of space to mount amps in the x-type. You'd be shocked about how much extra room is behind some of the tim panels in the trunk! Just be mindfull of vibrations...I've always slap a peice of dynamat on the back side of my amps.
Also there is no fiber wire running to your speakers. Just standard speaker wire. The only fiber wire you have, is running from your OEM headunt to the OEM amp and nav unit. If you don't have nav or premium sound than you do not have a fiber wire. That being said, yes you will (should) be running all new wire to the doors.
The polks should sound great amp'ed up. Post up when you are done!

 

ye sure will.. gonna upload all pics/videos on my forum at bitsnbobs.ca. was at a red light and the guy next to me had huge subs in his explorer and they sounded horribly distorted and a lot of vibrations were coming from his suv so they just sounded horrible. so i decided to order myself 100sq ft fatmat sound dampening. figured if im opening up the car so much might as well soundproof all of it (atleast trunk, all doors, back seat, parcel shelf). I got it for $200 delivered so like twice as cheap as dynamat extreme and is supposed to be the same stuff. i'll also see if i can mount the amp behind one of the trim panels in the trunk cos i think below the parcel shelf would cause vibration of the shelf and in turn will cause the amplifier to vibrate. i have premium sound so fiberoptic or not im just gonna use new wiring.

was also thinking of putting a pair of subs underneath drivers and passengers seat. to get the seat vibrating from underneath. would be great for when my other half comes over . but cant find a sub small enough to go underneath the seat. did find a chinese brand of self-powered 6" sub 80W RMS that will fit underneath the seats but it'll be around $250 including shipping for a pair and I don't know if I can trust a non branded sub.

 

You are on the right track with the sound deadening material. Between that and not owning an American vehicle you car rattles should be to a minimum. Yeah I wouldn't try to squeeze any enclosure under the seats. There are a few companies that make "bass shakers" or that's what I used to call them.

Aura Pro Bass Shaker AST-2B-4

They actually work alright if you get a quality one. Those can help make your seat rattle if mounted underneath. Sounds like you are looking for some serious bass. Curious as to why you think your kickers couldn't produce the same effect on their own?

 

Na just something really for to front cos the 2 subs r only component subs which will be mounted at the back.

 

I see. Like most euro cars the boot is sealed up pretty good. Meaning there is a lot of structural metal making the car very strong. This is a great thing....car handles better, safer, and just feels quality. The downside is that it is really hard to get sound from the trunk into the car. I've heard 1000rms watt systems in BMW's that dont even hold a candle to a 500rms in a Blazer or Honda. The whole trunk, parcel tray, seat backs is all metal, hell somethimes the seats don't even fold down. The trick is to port into the cabin of the car. The easiest way I have done this is in the parcel tray. I create a hole in the center of the parcel tray and simply purchase a speaker grill set up. Trim to fit, paint to match and it just looks like you have 3 rear speakers when in fact you have two and the "center speaker" is a port for your subs.

 

i have got these puck style vibrating kind of thing. i have taken the rear seat cushion out. i had to open it up to put the heat mat in anyway. but just had a cool idea. i put four of those little puck vibrators in the rear seat cushion which will be mounted onto a secondary 200amp rms (at 2ohm) amp.

now the only question is how to fit those Aura AST-2B-04 bass shakers in my front 2 seats. they r so big.