Front door speakers not working. Help
Just noticed both of my front door main large speakers are not working. I get a muffled sound out of the 2 front door small tweeters. Tried adjusting the speakers left to right. Front to rear. Rears all work. It’s the Alpine system just for info. Is there a fuse ? Any help is greatly appreciated
Last edited by NYCJAG2006; Jan 2, 2026 at 04:07 PM.
It is highly unlikely that there is a fuse for dedicated speakers only. There is only a fuse for the complete stereo system.
I'd say, either you have a wiring issue, or:
I had this on the X308 I bought: The big speakers (front and rear) were all "rotten": The "cardboard" (just to give it a name) of the speaker's outer rim totally dislodged (broke off) from the outer metal rim. But the effect of that was actually, that you could hear something - it was just very painful to the ears...
However, it is also possible that the integrated amplifier output for the front speakers is blown, or some other defect inside of the stereo.
I'd say, either you have a wiring issue, or:
I had this on the X308 I bought: The big speakers (front and rear) were all "rotten": The "cardboard" (just to give it a name) of the speaker's outer rim totally dislodged (broke off) from the outer metal rim. But the effect of that was actually, that you could hear something - it was just very painful to the ears...
However, it is also possible that the integrated amplifier output for the front speakers is blown, or some other defect inside of the stereo.
I think Thermo is about the best radio, etc. guy on this forum. PM him and let him lead you.
The best single, double din radio person as well as upgrading existing Nav system or better yet replacing that whole unit (now available ) is member Dennis Black.
The best single, double din radio person as well as upgrading existing Nav system or better yet replacing that whole unit (now available ) is member Dennis Black.
Last edited by Dell Gailey; Jan 3, 2026 at 12:32 AM.
NYCJAG2006, I would do an easy check (relatively) and that would be to get a cheap 4 or 8 ohm 5 or 6" speaker (wattage rating is not really important for this as you do not need to turn up the stereo to any significant level) and attach some wires to the speaker that you can then put into the plug for the speaker. At this point, you wil need to remove the door panel and access the speaker in question. Disconnect the plug from the speaker and shove the end of the bare wires for the temp speaker into the plug for the factory speaker. Do you get clear sound or do you get the garbled mess from earlier. If it is clear, then you have simply blown the speaker and you need to get new speakers. If it is garbled. then your amp most likely is having issues and will need to be replaced.
To help put some clarity to what is going on, for your front speakers, you have 2 sets of wires going to each door. 1 set of wires powers the mid range speaker. The second set of wires does the tweeter. The factory amplifier does the cross over (frequency separation) functions. So, to have both speakers on the same corner acting up, you have to have 2 channels of the amp messed up. Normally this is speaker related. Now, you make it even more likely to be speaker related by having all 4 of the front speakers doing the same thing. This is not unusual as a lot of people tend to fade the back speakers to put the sound "up front". Unfortunately, all this does is turn down the rear speakers (does not make the front speakers louder). Just to be a PITA, Jaguar did not wire the rears the same. Jaguar cheated and simply let the speakers limit themselves through the size of the speaker. So, make sure if you are replacing all of the speakers, you pay attention to the resistance of each speaker. Fronts and rears may be different.
You can repeat the test using a 1" tweeter (make sure it is either 4 or 8 ohms). You can unplug the factory speaker and plug in the temporary speaker like before.
If you have additional questions, let me know. This is where driving around with your door panels off for a few days may make this more worthwhile as you will only have to remove the door panels 1 time while you get the new speakers (assuming it is the speakers that are bad). If it isn't the speakers, then you can put the door panels back on immediately.
To help put some clarity to what is going on, for your front speakers, you have 2 sets of wires going to each door. 1 set of wires powers the mid range speaker. The second set of wires does the tweeter. The factory amplifier does the cross over (frequency separation) functions. So, to have both speakers on the same corner acting up, you have to have 2 channels of the amp messed up. Normally this is speaker related. Now, you make it even more likely to be speaker related by having all 4 of the front speakers doing the same thing. This is not unusual as a lot of people tend to fade the back speakers to put the sound "up front". Unfortunately, all this does is turn down the rear speakers (does not make the front speakers louder). Just to be a PITA, Jaguar did not wire the rears the same. Jaguar cheated and simply let the speakers limit themselves through the size of the speaker. So, make sure if you are replacing all of the speakers, you pay attention to the resistance of each speaker. Fronts and rears may be different.
You can repeat the test using a 1" tweeter (make sure it is either 4 or 8 ohms). You can unplug the factory speaker and plug in the temporary speaker like before.
If you have additional questions, let me know. This is where driving around with your door panels off for a few days may make this more worthwhile as you will only have to remove the door panels 1 time while you get the new speakers (assuming it is the speakers that are bad). If it isn't the speakers, then you can put the door panels back on immediately.
Actually, I am making it harder on you than what it needs to be. Do not remove the door panels, but access the amplifier in the trunk. In this case, you are going to want to solder some pins to the end of the wires to make accessing easier. You will see a larger terminal block on the amplifier (18 pin connector from what I can tell). From here, you are going to slide the pins in to the plug at the points listed and see if the speaker makes music or makes noise. This is where having 4-5 foot leads coming off of the speaker may make things easier for you.
Driver's tweeter: Pin 7 (white) and Pin 17 (yellow)
Driver's midrange: Pin 5 (white) and Pin 15 (yellow)
passenger tweeter: Pin 18 (white) and Pin 8 (Yellow)
passenger midrange: Pin 16 (white) and Pin 6 (yellow).
For this test, you do not need to worry about polarity. You are only interested in whether it makes quality music or garbage. But, if you want to be precise, the whites are positive, the yellows are negatives.
Driver's tweeter: Pin 7 (white) and Pin 17 (yellow)
Driver's midrange: Pin 5 (white) and Pin 15 (yellow)
passenger tweeter: Pin 18 (white) and Pin 8 (Yellow)
passenger midrange: Pin 16 (white) and Pin 6 (yellow).
For this test, you do not need to worry about polarity. You are only interested in whether it makes quality music or garbage. But, if you want to be precise, the whites are positive, the yellows are negatives.
Odds are as mentioned, the speakers are just falling apart and need to be replaced. I have rebuilt some speakers using foam kits and parts on various applications, but a decent set of aftermarket speakers is probably much more realistic of a repair in this case.
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perhaps i shoulda said pm me your address... lesson learned ...lol
i'll get those off to you in a day or 2.
enjoy!!
i have it now so feel free to edit it out.
i used to live couple hours from there.
i'll get those off to you in a day or 2.
enjoy!!
i have it now so feel free to edit it out.
i used to live couple hours from there.
Last edited by iownme; Jan 5, 2026 at 08:18 PM.
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