I have got the car in pieces changing the o/s ( UK ) drivers lower front wishbone. Does the long bolt slide out of the vertical bush without having to take anything else off, eg crossmember support etc. The space looks very tight above it ? I am ready to pop the bottom ball joint need to know soon. Thanks.

 

Can anyone answer this question ?

 

Space is very tight and both bolts must be removed entirely. I think you may have to lower the rear subframe bolt to get the rear bolt out far enough to remove the arm. It is a big 21MM and two small 13mm bolts holding the bracket. then just wedge a pry bar in there to force the sub frame down far enough to get the bolt out. It's a tricky job but just be patient and play it out in you mind first.

good luck

 

Mark, the JTIS states that you need to loosen the font and rear bolts of the subframe for the side you're working on. My question is, how do you know how far to loosen the bolts so you have enough room to wiggle the lower control arm out? Pardon my stupidity in asking this, but if you accidentally loosen the bolts all the way (again just the one side), what actually happens to the subframe? Will it still dangle since its held by the other side?

 

You'd be fine to loosen both front and rear of one side. there is not a lot movement available in those bolts so don't worry about the frame shifting. just pry down on it to get that bolt out.

 

Cheers lads. It is going to be next weekends job now. I did most of the hard work friday, loosened and removed, unseized the balljoint pinch bolt etc and both arm pivot bolts opened up and are free.

I have 2 more questions -

1. How long are the subframe bolts ? Loosening the rear one a good inch, i am hoping the threads are 2 inch long.

2. To gain access to the front subframe bolt, which piece of undertray or liner etc do i need to remove ? Or is there an access flap cut in the undertray / liner ?

Thanks.

 

Mark,

If you get the chance, some pics of this procedure would be a useful addition to the thread.

Graham

 

No Problem Graham. I will take some stage by stage pics and put them up on here after. Mark.

 

Done it. Took me 4 hours. I will write a tutorial when i get chance.



New Pinch bolt is essential before starting !!!



Front subframe bolt.



Wishbone rear bolt nut.



Rear subframe bolt and safety plate.



WD40 ran down inside of bush.



Remove rear safety plate bolts.



Undo bolt with long bar and 21mm socket.



Arm released from balljoint and front mounting. Swiveled around to help the long bolt out.



Improvisation. Me and my mate Jack. Lever subframe down or wedge jack handle in and use a socket extension to pump your jack up and do the levering for you.



New for old. Match new part for pattern.



New arm rear mount back in



Front mounting bolt in.



Balljoint and pinch bolt fitted




Front subframe bolt location.



You could easily drill out a 1 inch hole in the undertray or cut a flap to save the tedious hours of freeing the rusted bolts off.

 

Way to go! One word of caution is to tighten the forward LCA bolt AFTER the car is sitting level on the ground. I don't know if you did or didn't but this thread may help someone else so the advice is here. That is a tricky job for even those of us that have done it before. Well done!

 

Good one Mark,

That'll be the usual three and a half hours for freeing off bolts and thirty minutes for the actual change.

Is this a ding on the inside of the wheel rim or is it just discoloured?



Graham

 

Now Edited !!! Read my post again. Well spotted Graham. Car is getting jacked up tomorrow. That is a ding and that is the only wheel i havnt had off the car yet !

 

So you attached the balljoint to the knuckle before attaching the front control arm bolt??

 

No mate. The photos are not in exact sequence.

 

how do you get the new ball joint to go in?

And do you need the pickle fork to get it out?