i am intending changing the front struts on my 2004 2.0d x-type please can anyone tell me how easy or hard it is please and do i need to move/undo the front sub frame any info would be apreciated thanks George

 

I don't think it requires any sub frame removal, but you will need a good spring compressor. From what I read it a couples of hours per side.

 

thanks really need to know what is intailed or how, i am changing to sport shocks complete legs with springs so i wont need compressors i dont think but would apreciate some info from someone who has done the job but thanks for the responce regards George

 

It isn't that hard,
Jack up and support car well on subframe, remove wheel

Undo the brake pipe and ABS cable support from stut

Undo ARB tie rod from strut, you may need to hold the thread with a allen key in the end and turn the nut, plenty of WD40

Undo the strut to hub clamp bolt at the bottom of stut, plenty of WD40

Plenty of pulling, huffing and puffing, push the hub/lower wishbone down so the bottom of the strut is clear (it may require a wooden drift and a mallet to knock it downwards)

From inside the bonnet, undo the top bolts, get someone to hold the strut as you do this and wriggle it free

 

Thank you kindly just the type of instruction i was looking for sounds the same as most front strut removal but the JTIS makes it seem like a major job, have you actually done this job yourself
Thanks George

 

I had a look last week, as I'm in need of some new shocks.

I'd suggest getting in there before and wd40 all the bolts/nuts, then wire brush all the crap/rust off them.

It will be tight getting the lower arm off the strut, but it will come out, like I say, careful work with a wooden drift and mallet will get it moving.

 

Hi people are saying the hub wont push down far enough to get the leg out and the drive shaft has to be undone and the bottom wishbone or drop the sub frame thats why i asked if you had actually done the job yourself, no one seems to give a answer that has actually done it
Regards George

 

I wouldn't have thought you'd need to remove all that, I've done everything from Alfas to Vw's and never had to remove the lower arm on any.

When you undo the ARB tie rod, it should let the lower arm swing down enough for the strut to clear the hub.
Once you have the strut/hub coming apart, push down on the on the lower arm with your foot, it'll clear it.

 

I've just had a thought, you could pull the lot in one go.

Pop the track rod end, remove the caliper and tie out of the way.

Disconnent the Abs sensor (leave the end in the hub and disconnect cable further along the cable)

Undo and remove the ARB Tie Rod

Pop the bottom ball joint (big bar to pull it down), undo the drive shaft to gear box (plug the hole with rags)

Undo the top strut mount and pull strut, hub and drive shaft out in one lump.

Then spilt the strut from hub.

 

Hi thanks again i will give it a go during the week and let you know what i had to remove but yes i can see even if i have to drop the whole hub still easier than the JTIS way of doing things thanks for the info will let you know how i get on
Regards George

 

I have done it several times.
I was never able to get the top part of the strut out without taking the knuckle with it first.
You need to undo the brake, steering, sway bar, and the headlight leveling link if it is there.
You do need to undo the big nut on the end of the driveshaft also, and disconnect the abs sensor. the lower ball joint needs to be unbolted and pulled down to separate the bottom of the strut from the car.
Getting the ball joint apart is the hard part, and can make you struggle.
You can force the lower control arm down, but it is both hard to do, and risks damaging the fluid filled bushings.

JTIS tells us to lower the whole front subframe, but if you undo both sides, you mess up the wheel alignment. You can just lower one side.
If you support the car on the frame rail, then undo the rear subframe bracket, then loosen the 2 big subframe bolts, the subframe will come down about an inch.
This allows you to pry the lower control arm down more easily.

Another tactic is to undo the inner vertical bolt for the lower control arm, and loosen the horizontal one. Then pull the strut toward you and the vertical bushing will fall out of place and allow you to pry the arm down.

Once the lower ball joint is apart you can tap the driveshaft gently to push it out of the knuckle, being carful not to strain the CV joint in any direction.

when the ball joint is undone, and the shaft is out, the strut will be hanging by the upper strut mount, 3 nuts and it drops out.

There is one bolt that clamps the knuckle onto the strut at the bottom. Undo this, then drive a suitable wedge into the slot, to open the knuckle a teeny bit. this will help get it apart.

Dont take the strut apart without a spring compressor, or you will be in the hospital.

I hesitated to respond here, because you sound like either a real amateur, or a poor writer... Either way there is a risk you will mess something up. Good luck.

 

Per the factory manual, you need to pry the wishbone open - or if you are careful, you can thread in the wishbone bolt on the backside against decent gauge metal in the gap) until the strut is just lose enough to pull out.

 

I am currently working on these. It is a nightmare. Even lowering the subframe does not allow you to separate the knuckle from the lower arm without using undue force. I used too much brute force on the passenger side getting the strut loose from the knuckle and ended up tearing the inner CV boot. (Because when it finally did come loose the whole thing pulled out and tore the boot. Star gears were not damaged thankfully but the boot was destroyed.)


The driver side I am working on now (while I wait for a new cv boot to arrive in the mail), and I cannot get enough clearance to remove the lower ball joint peg from the knuckle.

Stay tuned.....

 

The lower clamp on the knuckle that holds the bottom of the strut can be a bear to release. Especially if, as in my case, the strut is WAY past it's life span and the road has been beating the suspension to death.

 

Anybody ever try to compress the spring while it's still on the car? would that give enough clearance to remove the strut without having to go through what sounds like delivering a baby from a moose that mated with a pug? With a 2nd person it may be easier to get clearance but I tore some boots just doing the driver side lower control arm by myself- don't want to repeat that...

 

here you go

 

And when you take the back (rearward) bolt out of the "A frame", reverse the bolt with nut on top. IF in the future you ever need to remove the arm again, you needn't drop the subframe. Not necessary on strut replacement, but good info.

This bolt =