Hid
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From: zambia
Hid
hey,
can anyone help me with vast understanding on HID conversion kits, am opt to buy the canbus HID conversion kit 8000k bulbs for a jaguar x type 2002 model. can anyone with vast knowledge advise and how long do they last for replacement.
regards
can anyone help me with vast understanding on HID conversion kits, am opt to buy the canbus HID conversion kit 8000k bulbs for a jaguar x type 2002 model. can anyone with vast knowledge advise and how long do they last for replacement.
regards
Veteran member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14,803
Likes: 4,102
From: Great Mills, MD
Levi, I am probably your man for this. I have converted a few X-Types over to HID headlights. The first thing that you need to keep in mind that while your halogen bulbs are 55 watts, the appropriate size HIDs is only 35 watts (yes, 35).
As for wiring up the HID bulbs, it is very simple. If you look, you will have 2 wires going to your low beam (a brown and a black wire as I recall). The black wire is your ground, the brown wire is your positive. What I do is drill a 3/4" (18mm) hole in the plastic housing on the back side of the headlight housing behind the low/dip beam. Most HID kits come with a rubber grommet that will fit the hole that you just made. 2 of the wires get attached to the brown and black wires and go to the ballast input. Then you will have 2 wires coming back (a red and a black wire) that will go to the bulb. The red and black wires have special connectors on them and you can only assemble things 1 way. From there, your big worry is where to put the ballast box. But, that is not a problem as there is a large flat spot under the headlight assembly that you can double side tape the ballast in place.
Now, with all this being said, take a close look at the kit. You will find that the kits come in 2 generic flavors. You have the generic kits that are designed around being able to work for multiple bulb styles (ie, good for H1, H3, H5, H11, etc). THese will work. Please don't misunderstand me. But, the generic bulbs are a compromise amongst a lot of things. So, installing the bulb is going to be more difficult than it needs to be. You then have the specific bulb kits which are made for a specific style of bulb (ie, H1 only). These will fit into your car much easier and have a better fit overall. If you can find these specific kits, it will make your life easier, but it will also cost you a little more. This is especially true if you are looking at upgrading the fog lights. Getting the generic kit for those adds hours to the job.
If someone brings up the fact that your wiring is not sufficient, they are full of it. Your car is wired to handle HIDs in both the low beams and the fogs as they are powered through a relay. But, with that said, the relays will only handle the power from the 35W HIDs. YOu step up to 50W HIDs and you WILL!!!!! damage something. If you are lucky, you simply melt the insulation off of the wiring and you blow a fuse. Worst case, BBQ'ed kitty.
As for longevity, the HIDs should outlast the car IF!!!!!! properly installed. I have had my car for 6+ years and still haven't touched my HIDs. But, the big thing is making sure that you install the bulbs without letting anything touch the glass and remain there. Even handling the glass parts of the bulb is bad with your bare hands because there is oil on your fingers (even if your hands were just washed) and that will stick to the glass and result in a hot spot (this leads to a shortened bulb life). So, keeping the glass immaculately clean is vital for long life.
You need to know anything, please let me know. I have received special training on the inner workings of HID bulbs and the associated wiring (gotta love having a background in security and electronics). I will answer just about any question that you can think of.
As for wiring up the HID bulbs, it is very simple. If you look, you will have 2 wires going to your low beam (a brown and a black wire as I recall). The black wire is your ground, the brown wire is your positive. What I do is drill a 3/4" (18mm) hole in the plastic housing on the back side of the headlight housing behind the low/dip beam. Most HID kits come with a rubber grommet that will fit the hole that you just made. 2 of the wires get attached to the brown and black wires and go to the ballast input. Then you will have 2 wires coming back (a red and a black wire) that will go to the bulb. The red and black wires have special connectors on them and you can only assemble things 1 way. From there, your big worry is where to put the ballast box. But, that is not a problem as there is a large flat spot under the headlight assembly that you can double side tape the ballast in place.
Now, with all this being said, take a close look at the kit. You will find that the kits come in 2 generic flavors. You have the generic kits that are designed around being able to work for multiple bulb styles (ie, good for H1, H3, H5, H11, etc). THese will work. Please don't misunderstand me. But, the generic bulbs are a compromise amongst a lot of things. So, installing the bulb is going to be more difficult than it needs to be. You then have the specific bulb kits which are made for a specific style of bulb (ie, H1 only). These will fit into your car much easier and have a better fit overall. If you can find these specific kits, it will make your life easier, but it will also cost you a little more. This is especially true if you are looking at upgrading the fog lights. Getting the generic kit for those adds hours to the job.
If someone brings up the fact that your wiring is not sufficient, they are full of it. Your car is wired to handle HIDs in both the low beams and the fogs as they are powered through a relay. But, with that said, the relays will only handle the power from the 35W HIDs. YOu step up to 50W HIDs and you WILL!!!!! damage something. If you are lucky, you simply melt the insulation off of the wiring and you blow a fuse. Worst case, BBQ'ed kitty.
As for longevity, the HIDs should outlast the car IF!!!!!! properly installed. I have had my car for 6+ years and still haven't touched my HIDs. But, the big thing is making sure that you install the bulbs without letting anything touch the glass and remain there. Even handling the glass parts of the bulb is bad with your bare hands because there is oil on your fingers (even if your hands were just washed) and that will stick to the glass and result in a hot spot (this leads to a shortened bulb life). So, keeping the glass immaculately clean is vital for long life.
You need to know anything, please let me know. I have received special training on the inner workings of HID bulbs and the associated wiring (gotta love having a background in security and electronics). I will answer just about any question that you can think of.
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: zambia
Hid
Levi, I am probably your man for this. I have converted a few X-Types over to HID headlights. The first thing that you need to keep in mind that while your halogen bulbs are 55 watts, the appropriate size HIDs is only 35 watts (yes, 35).
As for wiring up the HID bulbs, it is very simple. If you look, you will have 2 wires going to your low beam (a brown and a black wire as I recall). The black wire is your ground, the brown wire is your positive. What I do is drill a 3/4" (18mm) hole in the plastic housing on the back side of the headlight housing behind the low/dip beam. Most HID kits come with a rubber grommet that will fit the hole that you just made. 2 of the wires get attached to the brown and black wires and go to the ballast input. Then you will have 2 wires coming back (a red and a black wire) that will go to the bulb. The red and black wires have special connectors on them and you can only assemble things 1 way. From there, your big worry is where to put the ballast box. But, that is not a problem as there is a large flat spot under the headlight assembly that you can double side tape the ballast in place.
Now, with all this being said, take a close look at the kit. You will find that the kits come in 2 generic flavors. You have the generic kits that are designed around being able to work for multiple bulb styles (ie, good for H1, H3, H5, H11, etc). THese will work. Please don't misunderstand me. But, the generic bulbs are a compromise amongst a lot of things. So, installing the bulb is going to be more difficult than it needs to be. You then have the specific bulb kits which are made for a specific style of bulb (ie, H1 only). These will fit into your car much easier and have a better fit overall. If you can find these specific kits, it will make your life easier, but it will also cost you a little more. This is especially true if you are looking at upgrading the fog lights. Getting the generic kit for those adds hours to the job.
If someone brings up the fact that your wiring is not sufficient, they are full of it. Your car is wired to handle HIDs in both the low beams and the fogs as they are powered through a relay. But, with that said, the relays will only handle the power from the 35W HIDs. YOu step up to 50W HIDs and you WILL!!!!! damage something. If you are lucky, you simply melt the insulation off of the wiring and you blow a fuse. Worst case, BBQ'ed kitty.
As for longevity, the HIDs should outlast the car IF!!!!!! properly installed. I have had my car for 6+ years and still haven't touched my HIDs. But, the big thing is making sure that you install the bulbs without letting anything touch the glass and remain there. Even handling the glass parts of the bulb is bad with your bare hands because there is oil on your fingers (even if your hands were just washed) and that will stick to the glass and result in a hot spot (this leads to a shortened bulb life). So, keeping the glass immaculately clean is vital for long life.
You need to know anything, please let me know. I have received special training on the inner workings of HID bulbs and the associated wiring (gotta love having a background in security and electronics). I will answer just about any question that you can think of.
As for wiring up the HID bulbs, it is very simple. If you look, you will have 2 wires going to your low beam (a brown and a black wire as I recall). The black wire is your ground, the brown wire is your positive. What I do is drill a 3/4" (18mm) hole in the plastic housing on the back side of the headlight housing behind the low/dip beam. Most HID kits come with a rubber grommet that will fit the hole that you just made. 2 of the wires get attached to the brown and black wires and go to the ballast input. Then you will have 2 wires coming back (a red and a black wire) that will go to the bulb. The red and black wires have special connectors on them and you can only assemble things 1 way. From there, your big worry is where to put the ballast box. But, that is not a problem as there is a large flat spot under the headlight assembly that you can double side tape the ballast in place.
Now, with all this being said, take a close look at the kit. You will find that the kits come in 2 generic flavors. You have the generic kits that are designed around being able to work for multiple bulb styles (ie, good for H1, H3, H5, H11, etc). THese will work. Please don't misunderstand me. But, the generic bulbs are a compromise amongst a lot of things. So, installing the bulb is going to be more difficult than it needs to be. You then have the specific bulb kits which are made for a specific style of bulb (ie, H1 only). These will fit into your car much easier and have a better fit overall. If you can find these specific kits, it will make your life easier, but it will also cost you a little more. This is especially true if you are looking at upgrading the fog lights. Getting the generic kit for those adds hours to the job.
If someone brings up the fact that your wiring is not sufficient, they are full of it. Your car is wired to handle HIDs in both the low beams and the fogs as they are powered through a relay. But, with that said, the relays will only handle the power from the 35W HIDs. YOu step up to 50W HIDs and you WILL!!!!! damage something. If you are lucky, you simply melt the insulation off of the wiring and you blow a fuse. Worst case, BBQ'ed kitty.
As for longevity, the HIDs should outlast the car IF!!!!!! properly installed. I have had my car for 6+ years and still haven't touched my HIDs. But, the big thing is making sure that you install the bulbs without letting anything touch the glass and remain there. Even handling the glass parts of the bulb is bad with your bare hands because there is oil on your fingers (even if your hands were just washed) and that will stick to the glass and result in a hot spot (this leads to a shortened bulb life). So, keeping the glass immaculately clean is vital for long life.
You need to know anything, please let me know. I have received special training on the inner workings of HID bulbs and the associated wiring (gotta love having a background in security and electronics). I will answer just about any question that you can think of.
thanx a million, what can I do without you my bro!
what type or make can you commend for HID conversion kits?
Veteran member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 14,803
Likes: 4,102
From: Great Mills, MD
Levi, like I elude to in the first post, in short, what you pay for the HIDs is going to reflect what you get in the end. You buy the cheap kit, you are going to get a cheap set of HIDs. You invest in something a bit nicer, you will get something nicer. With that being said, just looking at the ballast will tell you a whole lot ironically. A lot of people are pushing the slim line ballasts. I have found that these seem to last about a year or so then will give up with routine use. If I was to recommend a company, I would say to find one called "Maxlux". This is the company that makes most of the ballasts for the OEM world. So, they are built around lasting for years and years. Yes, they are bigger in size, but you have plenty of room to mount the box. So, for your headlights, find a Maxlux H1 kit and for your foglights (if you do them) a Maxlux H11 kit.
As for the D3S HID kit, that is just Jaguar's special labeling for an HID bulb with the H1 base. The bulbs are physically different (prongs on the back of the bulb specifically), so, it can't use the label as an "H1 bulb". But, all the glass works is identical.
Something else I will propose to you is whether you are doing the HID conversion to get more light or to get a different look. If you are going after a different look, then you are doing that. If you are after more light, then you are on the wrong track.
What do I mean by this, it is rather simple. Yes, the 8000K bulbs are going to give you more light (measured in lumen) when you compare it to a standard halogen bulb. A standard halogen bulb is going to output around 1300 lumen where your 8000K (35W) HID bulb is going to output 2900 lumen roughly. But, your other issue is you are going to be outputting a blue light and that does not reflect well at night. So, the effectiveness of the light is affected. If you are after max light, then you want to stick with either 4300K (mostly white, but has a slight yellow tint to it), 5000K (pure white), or 6000K (snowy white appearance, but starts to get a blue halo to it). The 4300K bulb output the most light (3300 lumen) and as you go away from them, you start loosing the amount of light that you are going to get out.
One last tidbit. How are the cops in your area. Some people run into issues with the higher temperature bulbs as most places have a requirement that the headlights be a "white light" and you start getting into the "blue range", you can possibly be accused of impersonating a police officer. Every country has different rules and seeing where you are, I simply bring this up as something to ponder. Hate to see you go through all this work just to have to take it back out of your car.
As for the D3S HID kit, that is just Jaguar's special labeling for an HID bulb with the H1 base. The bulbs are physically different (prongs on the back of the bulb specifically), so, it can't use the label as an "H1 bulb". But, all the glass works is identical.
Something else I will propose to you is whether you are doing the HID conversion to get more light or to get a different look. If you are going after a different look, then you are doing that. If you are after more light, then you are on the wrong track.
What do I mean by this, it is rather simple. Yes, the 8000K bulbs are going to give you more light (measured in lumen) when you compare it to a standard halogen bulb. A standard halogen bulb is going to output around 1300 lumen where your 8000K (35W) HID bulb is going to output 2900 lumen roughly. But, your other issue is you are going to be outputting a blue light and that does not reflect well at night. So, the effectiveness of the light is affected. If you are after max light, then you want to stick with either 4300K (mostly white, but has a slight yellow tint to it), 5000K (pure white), or 6000K (snowy white appearance, but starts to get a blue halo to it). The 4300K bulb output the most light (3300 lumen) and as you go away from them, you start loosing the amount of light that you are going to get out.
One last tidbit. How are the cops in your area. Some people run into issues with the higher temperature bulbs as most places have a requirement that the headlights be a "white light" and you start getting into the "blue range", you can possibly be accused of impersonating a police officer. Every country has different rules and seeing where you are, I simply bring this up as something to ponder. Hate to see you go through all this work just to have to take it back out of your car.
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