Check around with Autozone etc, they may rent the vacuum pumps so you can do it yourself.

 

disguay, this is what I will tell you with what you have planned. yes, you can do it yourself. What you will need to do is to have a place evacuate the freon out of the compressor and then have them disable the compressor clutch circuit (you can remove either relay R6 from the under hood fuse box or pulling fuse F23 - Main power to the clutch circuit). This will prevent the compressor from spinning as you drive it back to the shop. Since the compressor will have very minimal lubricant inside of it, you want to make sure the compressor does not turn. Once you get to the shop, they will add in the freon/lubricant mixture and you can restore the clutch circuit to normal.

But, like I have said, you need to disable the clutch else you are going to have a second bad compressor on your hands.

 

ok, thanks to everyone. My car was making the bad a/c clutch sound yesterday and this morning it seems like another bearing on my accessory belt went out. I'm leaving my car for three months in a couple days so I'm just going to have to deal with it when I get back. I wish this didn't have to happen because I always maintain my car just the way I should. I hope with a new tensioner and a/c compressor all will be fine and dandy again.

 

Take care, and lt us know how it goes when you get back.

 

Well, I'm ordering all the parts and then I'm going to dive into it. I'm going to rent an a/c vacuum pump so I don't run the compressor dry. My a/c bearings are so shot it's not even funny. The whole axle just wiggles around. I've never seen an a/c compressor fail this catastrophically this quickly ever in my life.

 

if you do the removal ind re install without vacing theryrtem air will freeze around the vaves and it wont work......sorry mate but its gotta be vacced on re install. R134 a isn't gangerous to the enviro.......they use 134a to pwoer asthma inhalers in the uk but do remember it will give you horrid burns if you gey lots on you.it amy be overcharged but wrap your hand well if you lrt some out of the service prt using a small screwdriver to push the valve down.

 

Neil, he says that he is going to rent the vac pump.

 

I do not see how your compressor failure can be diagnosed over the Internet. To replace it ***** nilly is a big gamble it will be repaired.

You need your cooling fans to work correctly or you will get high pressure and some vehicle have a high pressure cut off circuit. When the system is shut off the pressure equalizes which means the low and high side read the same. So your reading may be correct and normal.

The next thing is the "clutch only" can be replaced if it has failed. In rare cases it is cost effective to replace the compressor and those cases usually have labor and parts totaled. You don't have any labor costs so just compare the parts prices. Compressor and clutch as one unit or just the clutch.

Now if in fact only your nut is loose or missing, why not tighten it or install a replacement. Your clutch should engage without any nut anyway so I think that is a mis-diagnosis.

Finally an ac vacuum pump is something used to evacuate an empty system of air and residual moisture before you add the refrigerant. (freon is a brand name such as a xerox copy or Kleenex) .

In the video there is a noise with out the ac on. The ac works cold when on in the video so disregard that video.

The other video shows no clutch engagement. It needs voltage to engage. It gets that from an ac command. Measure for 12v when the ac is on. No 12v no ac command. Clutch is good.
No command can be a number of things.

Repair the fan first as you have to any way, then go from there. Pay for a diagnosis, it will be cheaper than replacing a good compressor.

 

frank, it was a small problem, that was only with the clutch, but I had to drive it 300 miles and had no other way around it and on that 300 miles, my clutch jiggled around so much that now the compressor bearings are shot. I cannot drive my car because it is eating the serpentine belt. I'll upload a video if I have the time, but I am sure I blew out the whole compressor because I had to drive on the bad clutch.

 

The clutch pulley and bearing are available seperate from the compressor.
If the front compressor bearing went south due to the wobble (which i doubt) the seal will leak and you would lose all the refrigerant. You say you have pressure so you have refrigerant in your system.

 

frank, when I started this thread, my compressor clutch was the only thing that was bad. Now, after 300 miles of driving on the bad clutch (no way around it) my compressor bearings seem to be shot. I haven't checked the pressure again yet because I have no need to because I am going to replace the whole unit with a used unit. I am currently uploading a video of what my car sounds like when it's on.

 

Does the noise go away when the compressor is on/engaged?
If so then only your clutch pulley bearing is bad.

Putting on a used compressor means the new one could BE bad or go bad in the near future. Also the system will have to be evacuated of all air and recharged and it is not cheap.

 

I'm replacing my compressor and I am sure it will fix the problem. I only posted this thread to see if there was an easy fix or if anyone else has come across this and could give me pointers.

My compressor doesn't engage as I have written in previous posts. Replacing the compressor with a used one could cause me problems, but I have time to fix it if it causes a problem down the road, but I don't have the money right now because I'm on a student budget. I'm probably going to remove the clutch from the used unit first and then install it on my current compressor to see if it was just the clutch.