I've seen several posts that discuss this connector kit C2S15816 and I have purchased one to replace mine for the purge sensor vacuum tube where it connects to intake manifold. This is the source of my vacuum leak. I cannot figure how to remove the existing brass insert to change out this part. My new kit brass piece has a rubber oring at the bottom of the opening as it is oriented in manifold. I may try to carefully pry out the old Oring and insert the new Oring in old brass insert still intact in the intake. But if there is a proper way to remove the old brass insert I would like to know.

The new part comes with two pieces. One is the brass insert with Oring. The other is the black plastic ring that you are supposed to depress with a screw driver while pulling up in vacuum tube when removing said tube from manifold. I know I can press in the new black plastic ring with no problem but that Oring in the brass piece seems to me to be the true sealing point needed to fix my vacuum leak issue. Can some please advise?

 

Thought I would provide update and what I did. I did not get any replies and could not determine how to remove the brass collet piece from manifold so I took the new o ring from my new part and put in place of the original Oring which I removed by prying it out. The original Oring was dried enough that I feel that it was not sealing effectively anymore. So I used the new Oring and new black plastic piece from the new part kit and kept the original brass in place.

Still would be nice if anyone knows or can list for others how to remove the brass collet without destroying it or the manifold in the process

 

Thanks for the update RobinGA I have this same problem with the vacuum leak. Took it to the shop and had it smoke tested found the leak the wrapped Teflon tape around the elbow end that goes into the conecctor which worked got rid of my 2 too lean codes and allowed me to pass smog. But I purchased the correct parts and trying to figure out how to put them in. Did you get any insight on the phone afte you replace the ring. Thanks bmmb

 

I was told it is a pressfit application for the brass piece. I did not pursue changing the brass piece that mounts into the manifold any further at this time just because I didn't want to risk damaging anything in the process. I did swap out my Oring and black insert and it seems to work. For extra measure I did use high quality electrical tape to wrap the area where the plastic tubing goes into the brass piece and it's still on there. Would my vacuum leak come back if I removed that tape? Not sure but honestly just content to keep it there for insurance.

 

I could be wrong but I was under the impression you push down on the metal type ring (brass collet as you called it) with a screwdriver which releases "teeth" that hold the hose in and the hose should pull out then? Just like the brake booster on the manifold.

Here is some quotes from a "Thermo" post if your talking about the purge:

"The hose should go into a plastic retainer (the black plastic piece that is about 1/16" tall right at the surface of the intake and then has a few "teeth" that go into the intake manifold) and the fact of the hose being in there is what forces the teeth out to hold the hose in place. In the ideal world, to remove this, you would need to hold the ring on the outside down and then lift up on the hose. This causes the teeth to disengage and allow the hose to be removed. In your case, you need a new set of teeth.

Like was mentioned, you can silicon it in place and be fine until you would need to remove it. But, this isn't one of those things that you need to remove other than for say removing the intake manifold for any maintenance.

As for what that hose does. This line goes to a purge solenoid. This is what tests the gas tank to see if there is a leak in the tank (those pesky small/large evap leak codes that some of us get). In short, when your gas tank is between 3/4 and 1/4, the computer will open the solenoid valve and draw a slight vacuum on the gas tank. It will then close the solenoid valve and see if the pressure is maintained by monitoring the vacuum in the gas tank. If the vacuum falls (goes towards ambient pressure) too fast, then it will look at how fast it went away and then determine the size of the leak. In the case I had, the solenoid valve was stuck shut and it never drew a vacuum, therefore, when it did its check, it essentially saw that my tank lost its vacuum almost instantaneously and therefore I had a large leak (and a CEL)."

peace out,
daddylogan

 

Daddy Logan you are correct in what you describe above except it is the inner black plastic piece that you press and hold down as you remove the tube. When you buy the Connector kit the black retainer and brass insert is what you get see image link below. The issue I had when trying to determine how to remove that snugly fit brass part that the plastic retainer fits into. That brass piece fits into the aluminum intake manifold body into a hole and I didn't feel comfortable trying to pry or drill it out. If anyone knows proper way to remove then replace the brass part that may be helpful to add here. They sell the entire kit so it's obviously meant to be changed entirely

http://www.jagbits.com/mm5/graphics/...1/c2s15816.jpg

 

Also a picture I found showing the assembly located on the engine
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...-img_2894b.jpg

 

I hope by now you figured something out. However, in another forum here, it was recommended that only the new plastic piece and "o" ring be used. I would imagine with small needle nose pliers, the old plastic piece "carefully" could be pulled out without dropping any pieces into the manifold. I will be doing mine soon, so I'll keep an eye in this forum and drop you a note.

 

I sealed my leak with hot glue using a ..... hot glue gun. Mine had plastic inserts. It worked and I have pulled them since without any issue. Quick fix if you need it.

 

RobinGA: I've been chasing a 171/174 code for two years (xtpe/3.0/AWD). I saw a lengthy dialog from 2016 wherein you had replaced all the likely lines, o-rings, etc...without success. Did you solve your 171/174 problem? If so, how?

Thanks
Steve

 

@SHail = if you have replaced ALL the normal vacuum leak causes. I'll repeat ALL including checking all the connections, bolts, air box tight then look for this (posted in another forum)=

 

 

I need to replace my connections also. Does anybody have a link to a video to remove the plastic piece and o-ring? I am reluctant to just pry or yank the plastic piece out for fear of a small piece falling into the manifold. Also, it appears the o-ring is at the bottom of the brass insert, how is that removed and replaced?

Thanks in advance,
Ken

 

 

 

don't remove the brass fitting. what you did is correct and all that's needed to repair the connection

 

Brutal, I've seen your expertise on many subjects in the forums. Here's a question. My understanding is the plastic pipe CAN break but the more common failure is the rubber o-ring. Where taking out the brass fitting seems nearly impossible for most (a sideline here, read where some have used a tap to lock on and tap the brass faring out = seems scary and sketchy to me). Wouldn't/couldn't it be just as handy to remove the plastic tube (not damaged), pull the o-ring out and buy and replace the same size/diameter one? Would be awfully cheap to do it that way.

 

the plastic pipes dont actually break, the check valve plastic inline on the pipe deriorates and leaks. You can use 1" heat shrink to prevent or fix this over the valve. While you can replce the oring the plastic lock also breaks and then there is the time to try and find the correct or ing. And there is cost in time too. There are many things i pay for becuase the older i get i find my time is has alot more value than it use too.

 

Bushing @ manifold =

C2S15816 - Jaguar Vacuum Hose Connector Kit

Bushing on booster =
W0133-1890065