Has anyone else expierienced this? My went at about 130K. After a little investigation I found out that the bearing from another ford idler pulley had the same i.d./o.d. So I pressed the old out and the new in! It was only after that did I realize that the actual ford pulley had the same o.d. and offset as the Jag!

 

And probobly the same part number too on the part

 

Kay, just a little trick you may want to look at in the future is to look up the part for the same year Lincoln LS with a 3.0L motor. A lot of the engine parts are interchangeable. There are some oddities out there (water pump for example) that is different. But for the most part, you are good going after things that way.

 

Thanks! That's why I originally went to the Gord bearing. Funny that the entire pulley was a direct swap.

 

I just recently washed my engine on my '03 3.0 which has only 20k miles on it and now I am getting a racket somewhere within the serpentine belt area. It sounds like a chainsaw clutch gone bad. My thoughts are that it is the idler pulley as well. How did you diagnose yours amongst all the other pulleys in the system?

 

^^^^^ use a stethoscope on the attachement bolts. Harbour frieght has them for about $7

 

Or just hold the end of a long handled screw driver against your ear and touch the other end to anything you want to listen to.
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Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons

 

My 2005 went noisy at just over 70,000 miles. Extended warranty contract covered the replacement idler.

 

I pulled mine off and when I did, I found the bolt to be loose. I have since tightened it and have reduced the noise a lot but not completely. I want to torque it to the specified 48nm, but I cannot get my torque and 15mm socket in there between the steel wheel well frame and the idler pulley bolt. Anyone done this before?

 

clsimmon, what you will probably need is what is called a crowsfoot. Think of it as an open ended wrench that is only about 2" long. The other end of the wrench has a square opening in it to fit on the torque wrench. Adding this to the torque wrench will not significantly affect the torque reading (changes it by like 2%, depending on the length of the torque wrench you are using).

If you need more information about this, let me know.

 

Chris- The wife's X Type is a 2.5. Is this true for the smaller engine as well?


Thanks

 

So taking Chris's advice I started searching and found that the local WD doesn't stock the part and the Lincoln piece was bigger than the one off my Jag...BUT putting calipers to it showed the pulley that came off our 2002 2.5 was 76mmx31mm. That matched a doorman part that matched a Gates part that the WD did have. Gates part #38043 fit like a glove. Cost less than 20 bucks.


Thanks Chris!

 

Just bought an 02 S-type that had been sitting for 2 years. After installing a new starter (that was an interesting job) the car started right up however the lower idler was seized. After searching around for almost a day and finding prices from $68 - $155 and no local stock I pressed out the old bearing and was able to match it up.


Bearing : Nachi 6303-2NSE9 cost was $8 locally.


I see them on eBay as well for around the same price. Well I hope this saves someone some time researching the part and definitely some $$$ as the 10 minutes it took to press the bearing was certainly worth $60 or more to me.

 

When the bolt loosed, if you tight the bolt and it not turn smooth, just replace a new idler, the bearing already won out,

 

I don't have a shop press. Viewed a couple of videos, so it looks like it can be done without one. Looks like a 6203 bearing is standard on these.