Jaguar x type tail light help
#2
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I am assuming you are talking about only the running lights don't work. The turn signals work, the rear fog lights work (pull out to the second position on the headlight switch, first is for the front fog lights), and back-up lights work in addition to the stop lights. This will help me narrow down where the problem is. Based on what you are describing (and a little assuming on my part), if your running lights are the only things not working, then we are either looking at: 1) 2 bad bulbs for the running lights, or 2) bad wire coming to the back of the car.
Let me know and we will get you up and running 100% in no time. Also, how do you feel about using a multimeter? This will let me know to what level I can test things with you.
Let me know and we will get you up and running 100% in no time. Also, how do you feel about using a multimeter? This will let me know to what level I can test things with you.
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#6
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Another silly question to ask. When you turn on the running lights, do the side marker lights light up (the ones down on the side of the bumper-between the wheel and the bumper)? If yes, then atleast your running lights are a bad bulb. If the side running lights do not come on, then we are looking at a bad plug on the tail light housings. If the side running lights are off, then we are looking at multiple problems more than likely unless there is a problem with the board that all the light bulbs plug into.
Would there happen to be moisture inside the tail light housings? If so, then odds are you have a bunch of corroded contacts on the board for the bulbs. The "wire runs" on this board are just steel runners. So, any sort of prolonged exposure to water will lead to them rusting, creating an electrical nightmare.
From here, the next course of action will be to see where we have power, and where we don't. Do you have access to a multimeter and do you feel comfortable using a multimeter?
Would there happen to be moisture inside the tail light housings? If so, then odds are you have a bunch of corroded contacts on the board for the bulbs. The "wire runs" on this board are just steel runners. So, any sort of prolonged exposure to water will lead to them rusting, creating an electrical nightmare.
From here, the next course of action will be to see where we have power, and where we don't. Do you have access to a multimeter and do you feel comfortable using a multimeter?
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#8
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NewB, yes, they are the same bulb, but that is kinda like saying that if 1 cylinder of your motor isn't firing, then all of them must not be firing. There are multiple filaments inside of the same bulb. So, just because 1 thing works inside of the bulb, may not mean that the other will work.
Do you have access to a multimeter? It is looking like you either have multiple faults that have never been corrected or there is a ground problem with the backboard for the taillights. But, only a multimeter is going to tell us where the problem lies.
Do you have access to a multimeter? It is looking like you either have multiple faults that have never been corrected or there is a ground problem with the backboard for the taillights. But, only a multimeter is going to tell us where the problem lies.
#10
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NewB, ok, I want you to measure the following wires with the red lead attached to the wire I say and the black lead attached to a bare metal spot on the car (chassis ground).
With the running light on, measure the orange/yellow wire (pin #5 on the plug) on either of the rear tail light plugs. Do you get 12 VDC?
Next, with the rear fog lights turned on, measure the green/white wire (pin #7) on either of the rear tail light plugs. Do you get 12 VDC?
Next, with the turn signal turned on to the driver's side (left turn signal), measure the orange/yellow wire (pin #1), does this wire bounce between 0VDC and 12 VDC?
Finally, with the e-brake set and the engine off, place the car in Reverse (ie, turn on the backup lights) and measure the black wire (pin #6). Do you get something under 0.3 VDC?
Give me these answers and from there, I should be able to tell you almost down to the component that is bad.
With the running light on, measure the orange/yellow wire (pin #5 on the plug) on either of the rear tail light plugs. Do you get 12 VDC?
Next, with the rear fog lights turned on, measure the green/white wire (pin #7) on either of the rear tail light plugs. Do you get 12 VDC?
Next, with the turn signal turned on to the driver's side (left turn signal), measure the orange/yellow wire (pin #1), does this wire bounce between 0VDC and 12 VDC?
Finally, with the e-brake set and the engine off, place the car in Reverse (ie, turn on the backup lights) and measure the black wire (pin #6). Do you get something under 0.3 VDC?
Give me these answers and from there, I should be able to tell you almost down to the component that is bad.
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Lcgi (10-12-2014)
#11
#12
ok I see he is having a none working tail light issue. Well I have an intermitten lighting issue let me explain:
I have a 2004 Jaguar xtype. I love my black beauty but this is my issue. When the HID lights are on the rear lights are weird acting. The right blinker is on in front and on the side marker is on but the left in the back same with the left. The tail lights also blink and the rear High light does as well. This is only a problem when the brakes are applied and when the Headlights are on. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or is it just my car and yes it is factory HIDs not aftermarket.
I have a 2004 Jaguar xtype. I love my black beauty but this is my issue. When the HID lights are on the rear lights are weird acting. The right blinker is on in front and on the side marker is on but the left in the back same with the left. The tail lights also blink and the rear High light does as well. This is only a problem when the brakes are applied and when the Headlights are on. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem or is it just my car and yes it is factory HIDs not aftermarket.
#14
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lannyb, you may want to go back to the headlights and reposition the bulbs that you changed (specifically the turn signal bulbs). If those are not seated correctly, they can cause funny things to happen with your lights. In short, you have your running lights and turn signal wires getting crossed up and that is creating your havoc.
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lannyb (09-29-2021)
#17
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lannyb, at this point, what we need to do is to have your remove the plate the holds the bulbs and position it so you can see it in the trunk. You will want to do both brake lights this way. Now, keeping track of what bulbs go where, remove all the bulbs and set them off to the side. Now, install the brake/running light bulbs (should be the same bulb) on the trouble side. Do the bulbs works as they should? If no, then we have proven a wiring/plate issue. Now, install the same bulbs on the other side and see if they work correctly. Keep adding bulbs (1-2 at a time) till you have the fault come in. Even with the bulbs pulled, test the brake lights with and without the running lights on. You want to test it in as many conditions as possible even with those bulbs not installed. This is where having a second person will speed things up dramatically.
What I am suspecting is that you are going to find that the bulbs are going to act up right off the bat. I would first check the connector that plugs into the plate for the bulbs. Make sure all the pins are a bright silvery color, not a dark, brownish color (if brownish, will need to use some contact cleaner and even a scribe to get back to a silvery color). After that, I would say to replace the back plate that holds the bulbs. Seen a few of these go bad, leading to random issues like you are seeing. BUt, if you can get most of the bulbs in before having issues, then we know we have a wiring issue.
What I am suspecting is that you are going to find that the bulbs are going to act up right off the bat. I would first check the connector that plugs into the plate for the bulbs. Make sure all the pins are a bright silvery color, not a dark, brownish color (if brownish, will need to use some contact cleaner and even a scribe to get back to a silvery color). After that, I would say to replace the back plate that holds the bulbs. Seen a few of these go bad, leading to random issues like you are seeing. BUt, if you can get most of the bulbs in before having issues, then we know we have a wiring issue.
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lannyb (10-06-2021)
#18
lannyb, at this point, what we need to do is to have your remove the plate the holds the bulbs and position it so you can see it in the trunk. You will want to do both brake lights this way. Now, keeping track of what bulbs go where, remove all the bulbs and set them off to the side. Now, install the brake/running light bulbs (should be the same bulb) on the trouble side. Do the bulbs works as they should? If no, then we have proven a wiring/plate issue. Now, install the same bulbs on the other side and see if they work correctly. Keep adding bulbs (1-2 at a time) till you have the fault come in. Even with the bulbs pulled, test the brake lights with and without the running lights on. You want to test it in as many conditions as possible even with those bulbs not installed. This is where having a second person will speed things up dramatically.
What I am suspecting is that you are going to find that the bulbs are going to act up right off the bat. I would first check the connector that plugs into the plate for the bulbs. Make sure all the pins are a bright silvery color, not a dark, brownish color (if brownish, will need to use some contact cleaner and even a scribe to get back to a silvery color). After that, I would say to replace the back plate that holds the bulbs. Seen a few of these go bad, leading to random issues like you are seeing. BUt, if you can get most of the bulbs in before having issues, then we know we have a wiring issue.
What I am suspecting is that you are going to find that the bulbs are going to act up right off the bat. I would first check the connector that plugs into the plate for the bulbs. Make sure all the pins are a bright silvery color, not a dark, brownish color (if brownish, will need to use some contact cleaner and even a scribe to get back to a silvery color). After that, I would say to replace the back plate that holds the bulbs. Seen a few of these go bad, leading to random issues like you are seeing. BUt, if you can get most of the bulbs in before having issues, then we know we have a wiring issue.
#19
Hi lannyb,
Are you missing the lights that should be present when you have park or headlights lit?
Is the right rear side marker on your car working still?
If yes, then it is likely a wiring issue between CA204 pin 14 at the passenger fuse box to CA138 pin 3 of your tail light plug. (if my wiring diagram is applicable to your year - what year is your car?)
If RH rear side marker is also not working, have you checked the 7.5 Amp fuses 46 and 47 in the "passenger junction fuse box".
Fuse 46 feeds just the tail lamps for right side tail light and right side rear marker lamp.
Whereas fuse 47 feeds just the tail lamps for left side tail light and left side rear marker lamp.
If you have fuse 46 blown you will get no tail lights on RH rear at all (cluster or side marker), but still have turn, reverse, fog still working in that lighting cluster still.
Are you missing the lights that should be present when you have park or headlights lit?
Is the right rear side marker on your car working still?
If yes, then it is likely a wiring issue between CA204 pin 14 at the passenger fuse box to CA138 pin 3 of your tail light plug. (if my wiring diagram is applicable to your year - what year is your car?)
If RH rear side marker is also not working, have you checked the 7.5 Amp fuses 46 and 47 in the "passenger junction fuse box".
Fuse 46 feeds just the tail lamps for right side tail light and right side rear marker lamp.
Whereas fuse 47 feeds just the tail lamps for left side tail light and left side rear marker lamp.
If you have fuse 46 blown you will get no tail lights on RH rear at all (cluster or side marker), but still have turn, reverse, fog still working in that lighting cluster still.
#20
Hi lannyb,
Are you missing the lights that should be present when you have park or headlights lit?
Is the right rear side marker on your car working still?
If yes, then it is likely a wiring issue between CA204 pin 14 at the passenger fuse box to CA138 pin 3 of your tail light plug. (if my wiring diagram is applicable to your year - what year is your car?)
If RH rear side marker is also not working, have you checked the 7.5 Amp fuses 46 and 47 in the "passenger junction fuse box".
Fuse 46 feeds just the tail lamps for right side tail light and right side rear marker lamp.
Whereas fuse 47 feeds just the tail lamps for left side tail light and left side rear marker lamp.
If you have fuse 46 blown you will get no tail lights on RH rear at all (cluster or side marker), but still have turn, reverse, fog still working in that lighting cluster still.
Are you missing the lights that should be present when you have park or headlights lit?
Is the right rear side marker on your car working still?
If yes, then it is likely a wiring issue between CA204 pin 14 at the passenger fuse box to CA138 pin 3 of your tail light plug. (if my wiring diagram is applicable to your year - what year is your car?)
If RH rear side marker is also not working, have you checked the 7.5 Amp fuses 46 and 47 in the "passenger junction fuse box".
Fuse 46 feeds just the tail lamps for right side tail light and right side rear marker lamp.
Whereas fuse 47 feeds just the tail lamps for left side tail light and left side rear marker lamp.
If you have fuse 46 blown you will get no tail lights on RH rear at all (cluster or side marker), but still have turn, reverse, fog still working in that lighting cluster still.
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