Just bought the X-type Sport
#1
01-13-2008, 03:41 AM
Just bought the X-type Sport
Well it is official I am now the proud owner of a 2002 X-type Sport. It had everything I wanted; 3.0L, 5spd (this was a must), Sport model, Weather package, low miles (~58.5k), and it looks dead sexy! I did not opt for any extended warranty as there was no factory type warranties I could choose from. And the min $ package was $2300.
I spent tonight going over it checking (and adding) some 5w30 oil, checking air filter, checking tire pressures (35psi), cleaning all the disgusting greasy finger prints off, etc.
I did notice when I the car was still at the dealer the sales guy and I were playing with the lights trying to see if they were moving or not and during this time of on-off-on-off a couple times the Xenons would just flicker and not light up. But weirder yet it would be just one side. First it was the left, then right, then left againit would flicker, stop, then not light up.
We decided to let the lights take a break of a few minutes then turned them on with the car running and both Xenons came on. The I had zero problems going home. Even stopping once.
Overall the car rides beautifully, it corners stable, with response and road feel, engine is torquey enough and has good top end power. The interior I love, those sport seats are fantastic!
I am left with something to be desired thoughwhen it comes to the high beam output. They do the job,yes, butwill be looking for a Halogenupgrade soon. Thefog lights increase the light output to the side a bit but I do not notice muchdiffernce on the road in front while the Xenons are on. Willbe looking for anupgrade here too...maybe HID,maybe Halogen...have not decided yet.
The headlamp washer cover was brokeoff the car and it looks like I need a new plastic piece *seeattached pic please
Anyone have a partnumber or part name for the little swiveling plasticpiece in front of the headlamp washers?
Also, what is the purpose of the inflated baggy in between the intake manifold plenums? Heat resistance? Or just a cushy pillow of the Fuel Injectors[sm=smiley25.gif] [sm=wtf.gif]
I also took off the front license plateholder (it had a piece broke off it anyway) and IMHO it looks so much better.
Some anticipated maintence I look to be doing is oil change (looking to go with Amsoil Sig Series 0w-30), manual trans fluid change (Amsoil Euro5w-40...I was surprised thefactory specfor the trans lube was a motor oil), and alas the lovely transfer and rear diff fluid change with Amsoil Sever Gear 75w-140 (meets spec). I have used Amsoil products for years inmy Porsches, but mainly Redline MT-90 in those transaxles.
I also am looking to do a spark plug change in the next 5-10k miles. I figure I will tackle it myself. How long doesthis DIY normally take?
[sm=redxX.gif]
I spent tonight going over it checking (and adding) some 5w30 oil, checking air filter, checking tire pressures (35psi), cleaning all the disgusting greasy finger prints off, etc.
I did notice when I the car was still at the dealer the sales guy and I were playing with the lights trying to see if they were moving or not and during this time of on-off-on-off a couple times the Xenons would just flicker and not light up. But weirder yet it would be just one side. First it was the left, then right, then left againit would flicker, stop, then not light up.
We decided to let the lights take a break of a few minutes then turned them on with the car running and both Xenons came on. The I had zero problems going home. Even stopping once.
Overall the car rides beautifully, it corners stable, with response and road feel, engine is torquey enough and has good top end power. The interior I love, those sport seats are fantastic!
I am left with something to be desired thoughwhen it comes to the high beam output. They do the job,yes, butwill be looking for a Halogenupgrade soon. Thefog lights increase the light output to the side a bit but I do not notice muchdiffernce on the road in front while the Xenons are on. Willbe looking for anupgrade here too...maybe HID,maybe Halogen...have not decided yet.
The headlamp washer cover was brokeoff the car and it looks like I need a new plastic piece *seeattached pic please
Anyone have a partnumber or part name for the little swiveling plasticpiece in front of the headlamp washers?
Also, what is the purpose of the inflated baggy in between the intake manifold plenums? Heat resistance? Or just a cushy pillow of the Fuel Injectors[sm=smiley25.gif] [sm=wtf.gif]
I also took off the front license plateholder (it had a piece broke off it anyway) and IMHO it looks so much better.
Some anticipated maintence I look to be doing is oil change (looking to go with Amsoil Sig Series 0w-30), manual trans fluid change (Amsoil Euro5w-40...I was surprised thefactory specfor the trans lube was a motor oil), and alas the lovely transfer and rear diff fluid change with Amsoil Sever Gear 75w-140 (meets spec). I have used Amsoil products for years inmy Porsches, but mainly Redline MT-90 in those transaxles.
I also am looking to do a spark plug change in the next 5-10k miles. I figure I will tackle it myself. How long doesthis DIY normally take?
[sm=redxX.gif]
#2
01-13-2008, 03:44 AM
#3
01-13-2008, 03:47 AM
#4
01-13-2008, 05:45 AM
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
Nice car.
Use 5w-30 oil for the engine Chas not 0w-30.
The part number for the RH washer nozzle is C2S030311XXX(Primed ready to paint) or C2S029028CGG (If its Carnival Red) but double check with your delaer incase there are any part number changes or supercessions.
Re the plugs
The centre and LH rear plugs can (just) be reached through the gaps in the manifold.It must be lifted to do the right rear so its just as easy to lift the manifold and do the lot.There are eight 8mm bolts holding the inlet manifold flanges to the cylinder head.The bolts are not all equal length so note their postions as you remove them.
There are 2 further 8mm bolts thatbrace the manifold to the engine - one below the throttle housing and the other securing the back of the manifold to the rear cylinder head.
To allow enough movement of the manifold the breather pipe to the forward cam cover must be disconnected and the wires to the manifold flap servos unplugged.
The manifold then only needs to be lifted far enough to get in with a ratchet to unbolt the coil pack and loosen the plug.
WHILE THE MANIFOLD IS LOOSE THERE IS A RISK OF A BOLT OR OTHER FOREIGN BODY FALLING DOWN AN OPEN PORT SO ITS A GOOD IDEA TO PLUG THEM IMMEDIATELY WITH A CLEAN RAG.
The port sealing rings are rubber and can be reused.
PS Unlike coventional plugs which have a gasket to compress the X type plugs are the taper seat type.Once the taper makes contact with the head recess it should only be tightened a further 1/16 of a turn.
Now Im off to find a lawnmower to service.
Use 5w-30 oil for the engine Chas not 0w-30.
The part number for the RH washer nozzle is C2S030311XXX(Primed ready to paint) or C2S029028CGG (If its Carnival Red) but double check with your delaer incase there are any part number changes or supercessions.
Re the plugs
The centre and LH rear plugs can (just) be reached through the gaps in the manifold.It must be lifted to do the right rear so its just as easy to lift the manifold and do the lot.There are eight 8mm bolts holding the inlet manifold flanges to the cylinder head.The bolts are not all equal length so note their postions as you remove them.
There are 2 further 8mm bolts thatbrace the manifold to the engine - one below the throttle housing and the other securing the back of the manifold to the rear cylinder head.
To allow enough movement of the manifold the breather pipe to the forward cam cover must be disconnected and the wires to the manifold flap servos unplugged.
The manifold then only needs to be lifted far enough to get in with a ratchet to unbolt the coil pack and loosen the plug.
WHILE THE MANIFOLD IS LOOSE THERE IS A RISK OF A BOLT OR OTHER FOREIGN BODY FALLING DOWN AN OPEN PORT SO ITS A GOOD IDEA TO PLUG THEM IMMEDIATELY WITH A CLEAN RAG.
The port sealing rings are rubber and can be reused.
PS Unlike coventional plugs which have a gasket to compress the X type plugs are the taper seat type.Once the taper makes contact with the head recess it should only be tightened a further 1/16 of a turn.
Now Im off to find a lawnmower to service.
#5
01-13-2008, 09:19 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
HI, great car... I love the red.. I looked all over for a red sport pack, 5 speed.. everyone said it would be impossible to find. You are very lucky and I am very jealous.
I dont think it is motor oil in the transmission. I have an 02 and I put redline MTL in it and it works much better.
I would for sure change the transfer case oil as top priority.
at 60k miles you should be good for a while, no big problems.
although the xenon light bulbs are meant to last the life of the car, I had one that was flickering, and sometimes no lighting. I bought 2 bulbs for 10 bucks on ebay a year ago and it has been perfect ever since.
Your car had two recalls.... the light module and the parking brake handle. are they done?
Watch the thermostat hose for leaks.. there is a TSB about that.
I dont think it is motor oil in the transmission. I have an 02 and I put redline MTL in it and it works much better.
I would for sure change the transfer case oil as top priority.
at 60k miles you should be good for a while, no big problems.
although the xenon light bulbs are meant to last the life of the car, I had one that was flickering, and sometimes no lighting. I bought 2 bulbs for 10 bucks on ebay a year ago and it has been perfect ever since.
Your car had two recalls.... the light module and the parking brake handle. are they done?
Watch the thermostat hose for leaks.. there is a TSB about that.
#6
01-13-2008, 09:23 AM
#7
01-13-2008, 11:47 AM
Trending Topics
#8
01-13-2008, 12:05 PM
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
aquill gimme the last 6 and I will.
Fix for seat rock is XT501-03 TSB:
Issue:
This Technical Bulletin has been issued for the change in the Workshop Procedure and
Parts Information and is a replacement for Technical Bulletin XT501-03, amended 11/03.
Please destroy all copies of XT501-03, amended 11/03and replace it with this Technical
Bulletin XT501-03, amended 01/04.
Action:
To eliminate the possibility of a ‘rocking’ action, a seat mechanism tensioning spring is
now available in addition to wedges that hold the seat slides against the mounting bolts.
To install the adjuster spring and the wedges follow the workshop procedure outlined
below:
WORKSHOP PROCEDURE
1. Open front door.
2. Start engine to prevent battery drain.
3. Reposition seat fully rearwards.
4. Reposition seat cushion rear fully upward.
5. Reposition seat cushion front fully upward.
Page 2 of 4 Bulletin Number 501-03 Date of issue 06/02 Amended 02/04
6. Place new spring unit to front (see Illustration 1).
Warning: Do not cut the three black tie straps from the spring
unit until it is compressed into position in the vehicle.
7. Cut, remove and discard red tie strap only from spring unit.
8. Install spring unit to seat frame front upper and lower cross tubes. Spring unit to be
inserted at 45 degrees. Engage upper tube first and twist sideways to engage lower
tube (see Illustration 2).
Note: Position the spring unit on the center-line of the seat with two
fitted tie straps to the front.
ILLUSTRATION 1
SPRING UNIT
ILLUSTRATION 2
POSITIONING OF SPRING UNIT
Date of issue 06/02 Amended 02/04 Bulletin Number XT501-03 Page 3 of 4
9. Reposition the seat cushion front fully downwards to obtain maximum compression
of the spring unit.
Warning: Ensure spring unit is fully compressed with its end
jaws fully engaged on the seat frame tubes.
10. Remove and discard the remaining three tie straps from the spring unit.
11. Reposition the front seat to the original position.
12. Turn off engine.
Note: At this point if the seat rock is no longer present there is no
need to continue with this procedure. If the seat rock persists
continue to follow the remainder of the workshop procedure.
13. Reposition front seat fully rearward.
14. Remove front seat frame securing screws.
15. Raise front seat frame sufficiently to allow fitment of wedges.
16. Install and align wedges between seat frame and body fixing holes
(see Illustration 3).
ILLUSTRATION 3
SEAT FRAME WEDGES
Caution: Each wedge must be installed with tang upwards and
to the outer sides of seat frame.
Note: Ensure floor carpet is not trapped between seat frame/wedges/
body.
Page 4 of 4 Bulletin Number 501-03 Date of issue 06/02 Amended 02/04
Parts Information:
DESCRIPTION PART NUMBER QTY
Front seat track stabilizing kit C2S 35849 1
Warranty Information:
Description SRO Time Causal Part
Number
Seat rock service fix (one side) 76.93.960.2 hrs. C2S 35849
Seat rock service fix (both sides) 76.93.970.2 hrs. C2S 35849
17. Install and tighten front seat frame securing screws.
18. Reposition front seat to original position.
19. If both the front seats rock, carry out steps 1 to 18 for the opposite side.
I can email this to you also so you can see the illustrations. I am not sure how to put adobe format things into here, so no pictures until someone tells me how
Fix for seat rock is XT501-03 TSB:
Issue:
This Technical Bulletin has been issued for the change in the Workshop Procedure and
Parts Information and is a replacement for Technical Bulletin XT501-03, amended 11/03.
Please destroy all copies of XT501-03, amended 11/03and replace it with this Technical
Bulletin XT501-03, amended 01/04.
Action:
To eliminate the possibility of a ‘rocking’ action, a seat mechanism tensioning spring is
now available in addition to wedges that hold the seat slides against the mounting bolts.
To install the adjuster spring and the wedges follow the workshop procedure outlined
below:
WORKSHOP PROCEDURE
1. Open front door.
2. Start engine to prevent battery drain.
3. Reposition seat fully rearwards.
4. Reposition seat cushion rear fully upward.
5. Reposition seat cushion front fully upward.
Page 2 of 4 Bulletin Number 501-03 Date of issue 06/02 Amended 02/04
6. Place new spring unit to front (see Illustration 1).
Warning: Do not cut the three black tie straps from the spring
unit until it is compressed into position in the vehicle.
7. Cut, remove and discard red tie strap only from spring unit.
8. Install spring unit to seat frame front upper and lower cross tubes. Spring unit to be
inserted at 45 degrees. Engage upper tube first and twist sideways to engage lower
tube (see Illustration 2).
Note: Position the spring unit on the center-line of the seat with two
fitted tie straps to the front.
ILLUSTRATION 1
SPRING UNIT
ILLUSTRATION 2
POSITIONING OF SPRING UNIT
Date of issue 06/02 Amended 02/04 Bulletin Number XT501-03 Page 3 of 4
9. Reposition the seat cushion front fully downwards to obtain maximum compression
of the spring unit.
Warning: Ensure spring unit is fully compressed with its end
jaws fully engaged on the seat frame tubes.
10. Remove and discard the remaining three tie straps from the spring unit.
11. Reposition the front seat to the original position.
12. Turn off engine.
Note: At this point if the seat rock is no longer present there is no
need to continue with this procedure. If the seat rock persists
continue to follow the remainder of the workshop procedure.
13. Reposition front seat fully rearward.
14. Remove front seat frame securing screws.
15. Raise front seat frame sufficiently to allow fitment of wedges.
16. Install and align wedges between seat frame and body fixing holes
(see Illustration 3).
ILLUSTRATION 3
SEAT FRAME WEDGES
Caution: Each wedge must be installed with tang upwards and
to the outer sides of seat frame.
Note: Ensure floor carpet is not trapped between seat frame/wedges/
body.
Page 4 of 4 Bulletin Number 501-03 Date of issue 06/02 Amended 02/04
Parts Information:
DESCRIPTION PART NUMBER QTY
Front seat track stabilizing kit C2S 35849 1
Warranty Information:
Description SRO Time Causal Part
Number
Seat rock service fix (one side) 76.93.960.2 hrs. C2S 35849
Seat rock service fix (both sides) 76.93.970.2 hrs. C2S 35849
17. Install and tighten front seat frame securing screws.
18. Reposition front seat to original position.
19. If both the front seats rock, carry out steps 1 to 18 for the opposite side.
I can email this to you also so you can see the illustrations. I am not sure how to put adobe format things into here, so no pictures until someone tells me how
#9
01-13-2008, 12:36 PM
#10
01-13-2008, 05:36 PM
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
Thank you guys!!
I had looked for a few months as well while mainly looking at E36 BMW 328's and M3's but something about the Jag kept me looking for one. I am really happy with my new Jag!
Buck, thank you so much for the Spark Plug info!!!
I selected the 0w-30 based on the viscosity index figures compared to Castrol GTX 5w-30. Amsoil states that it is a replacement for all 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils. Amsoil does make a synthetic 5w-30 oil as well. I just thougt this particular oil had a better additive package. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx
APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for use in gasoline engines, diesel engines (API CF, ACEA B5) and other applications requiring SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 with the following worldwide specifications:
[blockquote]
• API SM/CF, SL, SJ …
• ILSAC GF-4, 3 …
• ACEA A5/B5-04
• GM 4718M, 6094M
• Ford WSS-M2C929-A
• Daimler Chrysler MS-6395N
• VW 503.00
[/blockquote]
The following is what I recieved from an Amsoil Tech Rep:
Charlie;
AMSOIL AMO (10w-40)and/or AFL (5w-40)are recommended to replace Ford WSS-M2C200-C for use in manual transmissions. AMSOIL SVG, 75W90 gear lube is the best recommended replacement for Ford WSL-M2C192-A.
Does this sound OK guys? I just want what's best for my new car.
The part that is broke is the plastic piece on the end of the headlight washers that holds the painted plastic deflector onto it. See new pics
I had read that the Variable Vale Timing motor was sensitive to higher viscosities hence I chose this one.
Bojangles,I will have to double check on the recalls. The car was religiously serviced every 3k and at every 10k interval so I would imagine those would have been taken care of but I will check again through all the service records. Thanks for the heads up!
FactoryJagTech, I will send you a PM. Thanks for the FYI on the air bladder under the intake, I will keep it there.3
Aquill, no my seats do not rock. But I will keep a look out for any problems coming up. I do get the occasional rattle in the dash though!
I had looked for a few months as well while mainly looking at E36 BMW 328's and M3's but something about the Jag kept me looking for one. I am really happy with my new Jag!
Buck, thank you so much for the Spark Plug info!!!
I selected the 0w-30 based on the viscosity index figures compared to Castrol GTX 5w-30. Amsoil states that it is a replacement for all 0w-30 and 5w-30 oils. Amsoil does make a synthetic 5w-30 oil as well. I just thougt this particular oil had a better additive package. https://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx
APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for use in gasoline engines, diesel engines (API CF, ACEA B5) and other applications requiring SAE 0W-30, 5W-30 or 10W-30 with the following worldwide specifications:
[blockquote]
• API SM/CF, SL, SJ …
• ILSAC GF-4, 3 …
• ACEA A5/B5-04
• GM 4718M, 6094M
• Ford WSS-M2C929-A
• Daimler Chrysler MS-6395N
• VW 503.00
[/blockquote]
The following is what I recieved from an Amsoil Tech Rep:
Charlie;
AMSOIL AMO (10w-40)and/or AFL (5w-40)are recommended to replace Ford WSS-M2C200-C for use in manual transmissions. AMSOIL SVG, 75W90 gear lube is the best recommended replacement for Ford WSL-M2C192-A.
Does this sound OK guys? I just want what's best for my new car.
The part that is broke is the plastic piece on the end of the headlight washers that holds the painted plastic deflector onto it. See new pics
I had read that the Variable Vale Timing motor was sensitive to higher viscosities hence I chose this one.
Bojangles,I will have to double check on the recalls. The car was religiously serviced every 3k and at every 10k interval so I would imagine those would have been taken care of but I will check again through all the service records. Thanks for the heads up!
FactoryJagTech, I will send you a PM. Thanks for the FYI on the air bladder under the intake, I will keep it there.3
Aquill, no my seats do not rock. But I will keep a look out for any problems coming up. I do get the occasional rattle in the dash though!
#11
01-13-2008, 05:37 PM
#12
01-13-2008, 06:15 PM
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
Oh those plastic pieces. They are the headlamp washers. You can get the covers as I think someone said already. Get them painted. Then get a long set of pliers and pull washer straight forward. Hold it out and clip the new covers in carefully. Then let the washer jets go slowly. Nice car.
#14
01-13-2008, 07:39 PM
Senior Member
#15
01-15-2008, 05:49 AM
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
jasonzimbran, thanks man!!
BTW: Can anyone tell me what the paint code or factory color name is for the red on my car? And with that are these non-metallic paints clear coated or are they single stage paints? I know just for refernce that the Guards Red on my previous 89' Porsche944S2 was a single stage but the Gemini Gray Metallic on my 84' 944 was clear coated.
Thanks a ton guys!!
BTW: Can anyone tell me what the paint code or factory color name is for the red on my car? And with that are these non-metallic paints clear coated or are they single stage paints? I know just for refernce that the Guards Red on my previous 89' Porsche944S2 was a single stage but the Gemini Gray Metallic on my 84' 944 was clear coated.
Thanks a ton guys!!
#16
01-15-2008, 07:48 AM
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
looks like pheonix red to me. code is under the hood.
check this out. http://www.affordablejaguarparts.com...ode_chart.html
check this out. http://www.affordablejaguarparts.com...ode_chart.html
#18
01-15-2008, 07:20 PM
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
Look on sticker on door jamb. Trim code and paint code. I thought it looked rather like cardinal red myself.
Incidentally, the VIN you Pm'd me says that that car is anthracite in colour. So you may have given wrong VIN, if so any info about warr etc I gave you would be wrong.
That is also why I will not give any personal info about vehicle. Only the stuff it has going on.
Incidentally, the VIN you Pm'd me says that that car is anthracite in colour. So you may have given wrong VIN, if so any info about warr etc I gave you would be wrong.
That is also why I will not give any personal info about vehicle. Only the stuff it has going on.
#19
01-15-2008, 09:26 PM
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
I looked in the door jam and the Paint Code is CGL 1924. Which according to the link says it is Phoenix Red Clearcoat.
FactoryJagTech, I looked in both spots in the driver door area for the VIN and verified it with the one on my bill of sale and all were accurate. Let me PM you the VIN I may have had a typo.
Thank you kindly!
FactoryJagTech, I looked in both spots in the driver door area for the VIN and verified it with the one on my bill of sale and all were accurate. Let me PM you the VIN I may have had a typo.
Thank you kindly!
#20
01-15-2008, 11:32 PM
RE: Just bought the X-type Sport
Man I hope he was right about my vin! He says my car is under select edition til may of 08...like an idiot I'm not sure that I ever checked...I am going to feel like a dumby when it is covered! But man will I be relieved! Let's see free oil change, both rear struts (if that stuff is covered by se), my front control arm (ball joint is bad), front drivers side door handle is messed up (not sure if that is covered), seats rocking like no other and anything else I can think of. I'm sure I can find something! Man I hope it is still under warranty...we shall see! I hope I am not getting excited for nothing! First thing I ask for when I pray tonight is gonna be that my car is under se!