Wait...you get free oil changes under select warranty?

 

Don't forget the door handle issues Aquill?

Jim

 

Oh I won't FJT was a great help! He gave me the skinny on what to do...I wrote everything down!

Oil pan-covered under se
Door latch-covered under se
Link rod to door-bulletin xt501-28
Struts-not covered wear and tear, oh well
Wishbone/Control arm-covered...control arm defective which is a common problem...go figure!

He was a great help and we talked for about 1/2 an hour...he's working on a car he stole from someone! Ok so he didn't actually steal it!

Thanks again fjt! [sm=happy046.gif][sm=love.gif][sm=partyparty.gif][sm=smiley20.gif]

 

You are welcome Aquil. Just remember what I told you. Be nice!!! You seem like very cool guy. Thanks for listening to my jiberish.

Chas, your car is definitley Phoenix Red over Charcoal Sport interior. Nice. No warranty of any kind showing and no open recalls or service actions.

 

FJT,
Thanks for looking again, kind of a bummer on no warranty left but I am glad to hear there are no TSB, or recalls still outstanding that have not been taken care of yet.

I appreciate the help!! [sm=smiley20.gif][sm=hail.gif]

 

I like the tech certified tag you've got below your profile...man I want one!

I won't lie to you I try to be cool!
No I'm really easy going for the most part...shoot any time you want to talk I'm all ears!!! I must warn you though I can talk the ears off of many too!

Thanks again man thats the best news I've heard lately...other than my grandpa is doing good since his triple bypass and pacemaker...other than that this is the best news I've had in FOREVER!

 

Sorry to hear about your G-pops man. Glad he better.

AncientSanskrit you do indeed. Every 10k just like factory services. If you have select, PM me last six of VIN and I can let you know.

 

Hey fjt they aren't going to say that my leak is caused by me using synthetic? I hope not...

 

Dude, you didn't tell me you developed a leak...? Could you pinpoint where it's coming from? Let me know if you need any help Aquill, I can dig up the service adviser's name, whom I spoke to. Could always swing it by Jag of Troy, too.

 

They not gonna give you crap if you dont tell them you use synthetic. Some dealers are picky about it but cant void warranty. If you get your free oil change, just let them put there stuff in there, but at least you get free oil filter. Just drain it and put back in 6.55 quarts of whatever you normally use. Also, mark your oil filter somehow so you know if they in fact changed it.

 

Thanks FJT I will...they won't void it because I used a different one than jag filter will they? I used fram stuff and mobil 1. I was planning on just letting them put whatever they use...or just not having them worry about it but than again if they replace the oil pan gasket than they will have to replace oil anyways. Do they generally give a loaner on that or no? As for the synthetic its a don't ask don't tell policy for me!

 

I have a 2002 x-type sport with a 2.5L engine. In replacing the coils and spark plugs I tightened two bolts a little (little) to snug. The result the brass fittings in the lower intake started spinning on two bolts. My question before I invest in a new lower intake manifold is can the busings be securely reseated somehow. The last thing I want is for the manifold to loosen later and suck air. I can't believe a plastic lower intake, but I am told all cars are now doing that.

Is there a glue, gunk, junk that will take the heat and vibration and hold the brass inserts in place permenately at least as well as the &$%@ plastic.

 

JB Weld tends to be pretty good in these circumstances (granted I'm not following which bolts you're talking about - sounds like something in the intake filter department, not the manifold.

You know that you can open a new thread for these types of questions, right? This one was 2 years old.

 

Thanks ExPat, I appreciate the insight.

Under the upper intake manifold (metal) there is a lower intake manifold (plastic). The lower intake houses the injectors and bolts to the block. The upper intake bolts to the lower intake. I broke free two brass inserts that were in the plastic lower intake. These inserts are what the upper intake bolts to, if they do not stay in I could get a small air leak between the upper and lower intake, burn up the cat conv and the cylinder walls/pistons. The part retails new for $800 and used from $500 for one plastic part.

I have had great success with JBWield where it has held for years in all kinds of wheather and a few not so great experiences where it gave up shortly after being applied. I hate throwing money away, but being too cheap I could end up buying the better part of a new engine. Believe it or not I can buy a modest milage engine for $1500 including shipping, only $700 more than the used plastic part. Oh well

Next time I will start a new thread. You are right. I saw the same Jag and went for it without looking at the date. Over all it has been a very good car with a great ride lost of power and features. I hear people bashing Jags all the time. Mine has had a few problems under warrenty like most new cars, but nothing outside of the warrenty. The Jag dealers are great people. My only complaint is the cost of some repairs and parts. I have owned my for 60,000 miles and 8 years. I own a Pontiac Firebird and understand the difference between a sports car ride and power and a luxury sport model. Some write ups thing the Jag is supposed to be a race car. Duh it is a luxury car with a sports car feel. I like the wrap around seats and the stick and just enough pep to feel like I can get up and go. I love my Firebird off the line and for its looks, but it does not have that luxury ride for long trips.

I also owned a Porshe and where it handled corners magnificently and could manage 148 with ease, it was truly a maintenance nightmare with continual tune ups to keep it hot. Not much off the line, but in the corners it was dynamite. The jag does not have that low a profile yet to hear some of the reviews on it they expect the same 55 mph 90 degree turns without rollover. It is a luxury car and the X-type is a sport model meaning it has some sport features.

I admit I always wanted a jag and this one has real eye appeal. The extra lines in its body automatically tell you it is special. People notice the difference in the ride and how it is laid out as well. The X-type is the only all wheel drive Jag I know of and it handles magnificantly in the snow. I am not sure a jeep could do much better except for the higher bumper for deeper snows. No I am not suggesting off road. With a good slippery snow my Firebird is shut down, heck with snow in the forecast it starts slipping and sliding. The Jag just hunkers down and goes and adjusts traction when other cars would slip sideways. If you understand what you are buying it is a great car. By the way my doors don't rattle and the engine is very quiet. The passenger seat rocking was an early five minute fix while under warranty.

 

I have just recently bought a 2002 X-Type and I noticed that the low beams were the HID, I wanted to know if there is a good kit to change over the high beams and fog lights to matching HID lights. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

 

If I were a moderator, I would split your question off into a new thread...

That said, for a high beam you really need to keep a filament style bulb, as an HID bulb in that position can take a while to warm up and achieve it's normal lumen output. The high beams in the X-Type are H1 and they are relative efficient for halogen bulbs with 1550 lumen output in 55w (an H4 in comparison only has 1000 lumen output on low beam and HID 35w bulbs output around 2700 lumens).

If you are really ambitious, you can try to fit a Bi-xenon assembly into your low beam lights. With Bi-xenon when you switch to high beam, that effectively moves the light cutoff mechanism and wall inside the projector housing using an electro magnet and it springs back into normal position once you turn high beams off. There is no warm-up lag, because the bulb is already running as a low beam prior to switching on high beams and you are using the same bulb. Many cars are equipped with bi-xenon and there are now aftermarket retrofit kits available to do this.

My recommendation is to keep what you have in place and if you want whiter/bluer bulbs, you can fit Silverstars or something, but those won't provide any more lumens than your factory 55w H1 halogens.