Hi,

I am considering purchasing a 2003 X-Type from a local dealer. It has only 45,000 miles and cosmetically looks to be in great condition, however...

Both the AWD and break light are on. The price is great ($2500) and with a similar car for sale at another dealership for $4500 + 50,000 more miles and not as well kept, I am considering purchasing this and getting this fixed (or doing it myself). My thought is that even if it costs $2000, I still have a car that looks better and has less miles than the other one.

Anyway, would the ABS light also trigger the break light, or would that be separate and what should I look at first if I was going to try to fix this myself.

Thank you very much for your time,

Shawn

 

My '02 has the ABS light go on and off all the time.
Comes on driving, is gone next start up.
Car is driven all the time, no issues.

What brake light?
Any message on the odometer display?

PS, got the top forum section and do your intro, add your car info in your signature.
You will get more responses once you do.

 

Shawn, I am curious what you are calling the brake light. Could you be meaning the symbol that looks like a car skidding out of control (S-ing back and forth)? If you are talking this symbol, that symbol means that you don't have the traction control system either.

I know what you are thinking, "OH MY WHAT AM I GETTING MYSELF INTO!!!!". Do not worry, if this is the case, then both problems are caused by the same symptom. Odds are, the check engine light is on too. Most likely, there is a bad wheel speed sensor. This is normally caused by a speed sensor having an issue with the rear end. Because you live in Ohio (I used to live in Toledo), they salt the roads and odds are, you are looking at a bad reluctance ring. You replace the rear drive shaft on one of the wheels (about a $600 job if you pay someone to do it for you, $200 if you do it yourself), that would take care of both issues most likely. Granted, it could be a bad wheel speed sensor ($50 and basic hand tools) and you can replace it yourself (easy enough a 10 year old could replace it). But then, there have been a few to report that the wiring back there got hung up and damaged. But, even that is a fairly easy fix at a local wiring shop.

I would say to pick up the car and try to haggle with them saying that you have been talking with a jag group and they are saying that it is going to be an expensive fix since you will need to take it to the dealership. Talk them down to say $2000 and run like hell.

The other question that I would ask is whether someone has replaced the front wheel bearings recently. I would ask something to the effect of "what maintenance has been done to the car recently like brakes, shocks, wheel bearings, etc". if they talk about the wheel bearings being done recently (why, not sure, but stranger things have happened), then that would be your most likely culprit as it is common for shops that are not familiar with the wheel bearings to put them in backwards which will cause the car to not see the ABS ring for a front tire, leading to the ABS light and the traction control light (the car skidding out of control).

 

Thank you for the suggestion to update my signature. I will do that.

Basically I have three lights on. The check engine light which is listing a fault in the MAP sensor (ordered one). I also have the ABS light and Break light on. I need to get the code pulled for the ABS. The guy at the dealership pulled it and it appears to be a faulty sensor in one of the back wheels. I should have asked him to write it down.

Thanks!

 

Hi Thermo, thanks for your reply.

I started the car this morning and only the engine light (bad MAP sensor) and ABS light was on, but as soon as I pressed on the breaks, the break light came on as well. I will be putting new breaks on the car, so could that be it? The dealer pulled the ABS code and it read (I forgot to write it down) that a sensor in one of the back wheels was bad. I need to get this code pulled again.

Thanks,

Shawn

 

Shawn, unless your ABS module is shot (even then), stepping on the brakes should not cause the light to come on. Get the code for the rear wheel speed sensor and go from there. I am betting that once you replace that one wheel speed sensor, your problem will go away. You can try pulling out the sensor and checking for the reluctance ring and that may show you which wheel is having issues. If you are confident with your hands, you can test the speed sensor too (write me and I will tell you how to). This will also give you a chance to look at the wiring and see if that has been damaged some how. All this can be done by someone with minimal knowledge of cars.

 

Thank you very much. I greatly appreciate that!

Shawn

 

Shawn, to test the speed sensor, you will need a multimeter and a large screw driver (or other large metallic metal object that is easy to handle). Remove the speed sensor from the car. Place the speed sensor on a table edge or other suitable area. Connect the multimeter to the 2 pins on the speed sensor with the multimeter set to monitor "VDC" (20 volt scale or less).

While monitoring the multimeter (may want the help of a second person), you want to swing the screw driver past the end of the speed sensor that was inside the hub assembly. If the speed sensor is working, you should see the multimeter indication jump up quickly and drop right back down each time you pass the screw driver by. The amplitude of the voltage is relative to how close you get and how fast you swing. The closer you get and the faster you swing, the larger the pulse. The big thing is that you are seeing it jump.

I would hate to see you strike the end of the sensor and damage it. So, practice some swinging faster and closer till you think you have a good reading or you don't trust yourself swinging any closer/faster.

 

Great tip!

 

Shawn, I live 15 minutes away from you and have every tool know to man (you feel that way when looking at the $ I spent). New to Jags but been cranking wrenches for 50 years.

I have some of the same errors to fix on my car when i get time.

 

Both cars look great!

 

 

Sorry, new to forum and posted in wrong spot.

 

me too except im not and i didnt

 

Hello to everybody! Excuise me guys and where i could buy this itmes for my jaguar s type? (sry iam a new member)
best regards.

 

First go to correct forum, this is X Type (X400). Forum sponsor, SNG Barrett is a good source. Main page "stickies" has catalog.

 

Hello, i hope you bought the car. FYI... I just did my reluctor ring problem so I have dome advice. For one thing, you should be reasonably mechanically inclined to do this job. Ok, so you do NOT need a new CV axle, not even the CV only. All youll need is a new reluctor ring. I bought 2 off Amazon or eBay i think for $20 from overseas (I live in USA), figuring for that price I might as well get one for the other side for when that one inevitably goes too. What happened in my case was the CV shaft surface under the ring rusted and built up until the rust literally forced the ring to stretch, expanding it until the ring started to wear against the end of the sensor. To diagnose this problem, remove the affected side's wheel, unplug the sensor from your hub assembly, youll need a Torx bit I think it was, so try not to strip it if it's rusted or you'll be drilling. Once removed shine a torch into the opening and see if the reluctor ring has rust underneath it. Also, the end of the sensor will be slightly concave instead of the normal flat plastic, with a scraped pattern to it from the ring. Youll need to pull the axle out from the differencial, it may be held in still by the retaining clip, i even needed a slide hammer. And the outer spline will be difficult to temove as well, this time i used a socket and hammer. Don't bother trying to find a new C-clip because the arent sold separately, so reuse the old one, just try to get it back to its original form (spring steel). You can find new axle nuts though. Clean off the slag from the CV axle after you cut the reluctor ring off, then use epoxy or something similar to adhere the nee ringbon becsuse the loss of steel to corrosion will make it a loose fit. Once it is dry and secure, clean off any globs that would interfere with the sensor readings. Reassemble the shaft into the car and torque to specs. Takes a few hours or so but i left mine overnight to dry and harden up. I also added differential fluid while i was at it. So, for like $20 and some epoxy and your time, you can fix that issue, not at all anywhere near the $2000 you mentioned, so well worth it. But.... Once you're all done and resdy to test drive, don't get discouraged if youre CEL lights up for the same thing. Remember the sensor head had to be scraped at least a little bit for the problem to be acknowledged by the ECU, so you might also need a new $20 sensor too. An easy fix, remove wheel, loosen back seat bench on that side, unplug the connector, remove, feed new connector end into access holes from the outside of car into the passenger compartment and plug in, secure the seat, thread the snake the wire around the axle and plug into your hub assembly. Done, put wheel on, clear codes, and drive it through 50 mile code clearing routine if you need a sticker. Congrats, you fixed it for $30 with a spare reluctor ring to boot