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Hi everyone, I am new on here and am looking for some advice.
just received the Mot results and have been warned it could either cost thousands or just a few hundred to fix, but there’s no way of telling without spending the money. This is our first Jaguar, I was wondering if anyone with knowledge of the x type might be able to advice.
Isabelle, from the list of what is going on, if you can get a neighbor to do some work, it will save you a lot of money, even if you have ot toss say $100 USD their way. The parking brake below efficiency is normally a caliper sticking and you can get a new caliper for fairly cheap and installing it is not hard, but a shop is going ot hit you for say 2 hours of time (so total of just that is going to be $400 USD). The suspension arm that need replaced, that could be a significant thing, or it could be an easy fix. This is where if you could take a picture of the underside of the car on that corner, we may be able to provide more clear instructions and potential cost to repair. Granted, looking further down your list of potential problems, it would appear that your issue is the lower arm which is not a hard fix, but is probably going to run you about $500 to have fixed.
Now, for the ABS, I see that you have a statement that you also had the check engine light. Do you know the code that it had (should be PXXXX where XXXX is 4 digits like 0174 or may possibly have been something like C1155). If you had a code similar to C1155, then that is a fairly common issue with the X-Type and fixing it isn't all that bad normally. BUt, if you had a different code, then odds are you are looking at a new ABS module which could get a little expensive based on options and if you have to buy new or not.
You dont say what year ,model and condition the car is and how much you like the car .54 k is a low mileage to scrap a car unless you feel there may be other issues coming up
The question I would be asking is if it is going to cost about £1500 to sort would I be able to get another car for that amount with 12 months mot that I liked better and was in better nick mechanically and cosmetically
Hi Isabelle - it is most probably cheaper to fix the X-Type rather than buying your namesake car instead - a Borgward Isabella...
The thing is, I have no idea how greedy repair-shops in GB are. You do not indicate, in which country you live, but since you are writing about MOTs, I figure you are in GB. I am in Australia and I have 3 X-Type alone. I bought them all with various ailments. I have 1 fixed to perfection already (showroom condition), and currently I am right in the middle on the second X-Type. Everything is fixable and since I fix everything myself, it's just my time and parts. As Thermo mentioned above the idea solution would be if you know someone, how knows something about fixing Jags, who can to it for a fair price.
There is a good chance the ABS fault is just due to a dirty or broken or wheel-speed sensor (there is one on each wheel), or it could be a damaged cable to one of those sensors. This is what I would check first - obviously it could have other causes.
Swapping suspension arms sounds easy to me.
Those ball joint dust covers are kind of always damaged and normally you would swap the part, and those parts cost a bit, if you need more of them. I have my own way of fixing that: As long as the ball-joint does not have too much play, I remove it, grease it and but a new dust cover over it. Jaguar does not offer those dust covers - I bought huge amounts of various sized dust covers on Aliexpress and used them to fix the issue. Yes, everything requires a bit of time, but all is doable.
Parking break efficiency could be due to worn brake pads, could be due to adjusting the park brake or maybe even as mentioned above the brake calipers. Replacing them costs quite a bit - the calipers on the X I am working on currently were also no happy campers: I ordered 1 set of replacement seals for the frt. and one for the rr (rear).I paid around AU$40 (about 25 Pounds I think) for each kit (buying 4 kits for 2 X-Types), incl. the mad postage to Australia, you should get it much cheaper (postage!). I bought them on ebay from the UK from biggred4u. I actually put an insane amount of time in there, as I have taken the calipers apart into every little part and I made it shiny again with wire-brushes and then clear-coat: Better than new!
I did not have to replace coil springs yet - no salt on the roads in Australia. That involves some money for parts I assume and a bit of work.
"A little bit of oil leak" could be the cam cover seals: Note that I also just made the mistake (even though I knew better) then I just ordered the cam cover seals and forgot about the little inner seal, which seals off the spark plug area: Part number: XR847907. That was easy for my to paste and copy, as I was shocked how expensive this little seal is from the Australian sellers - but I found a seller on Alibaba and I am just in discussions to order 10 of them there (every S-Type and X-Type - as I understand it) requires 2 of exactly them. On Alibaba I'll pay 10xUS$7.50 plus US$50 postage. Too bad I bought the cam cover seals already - they are also on Alibaba - if you find someone, who selles you a small amount - or you just buy more and sell it on with profit.
I also just bought all the rotors (brake discs) for 2 X's (X-Types): That is 8 discs. I found a clearance offer for TWR (great brand) rotors (front) AU$50 each at a local shop. The rear rotors with come in the mail from ebay. They were a bit dearer. Brand: DBA - that is an OK brand. Frt. discs have when new 24mm thickness and their minimum is 22mm. Rear rotors have 12mm thickness when new, and their minimum is 10mm.
I also bought all the frt. and rr. brake pads. A set of either frt. or rr. was less then AU$40. It takes quite a while to figure out, which ones are the right ones for YOUR X, because there are differences: My two 2.5L AWD have pads with round ends at the left and right, my 2.1L FWD has square ends at the left and right ends. And if the new pads do not come with the wear warning contacts (which look like earrings), it should not be an issue to remove them from the old pads and attach them to the new ones.
So all in all, I think your "task" now is to find a reliable trustworthy private repair-guy, who knows, what he is doing and has fun doing it and does not charge an arm and a leg. So someone like me, but I am in Australia (and nobody found me yet asking me to fix a Jag...) Obviously, as all the parts have to ordered first (and it possibly becomes only obvious bit by bit, which parts are required), the repair-job could take a few weeks (and there is no guarantee that an official garage would be any faster...
PS: I just stumbled across this YT-video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkNQCCdx_Gk
I know, it's about the S and not the X, but it tackles the rear shocks (which I never touched on mine) and it tells you how important shock clamps are, AND it mentions the "rust under plastic sill cover" issue, which I heard of before, but which is also an unknown issue in Australia, I think (again: no salt on the roads here).
What I wanted to point out: Before you go into the details, it would be a good idea to FIRST assess, if your X-Type does have a real major problem like major under body rust and sill rust. While I think that even that can be fixed by a good welder, that becomes an expensive specialist job now.
Also, have a looks (as mentioned in that video) at your brake pipes. I heard before that those are hard to get, but I think I also heard that they can be replaced using generic parts. But again: That would be a bigger job.
Last edited by Peter_of_Australia; Apr 26, 2023 at 01:24 PM.
Reason: added PS note
I would definitely check where the oil leak is coming from, that could be expensive.
As Bluesboy said, please provide model and year otherwise we ar ejust guessing.
If the springs etc are corroded but there is no mention of corrosion in the sills or floor then that isn't too bad, considering.
My back end (so to speak) had a lot of superficial rust everywhere but a couple of hours wire brushing, treating with Fertan and then repainting bought it up like new.
What is the interior like?