Key Transmitter
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
RE: Id still tell my buddy why to keep manuals
Yes - they mean the actual mechanism of the lock. However, it wasn't clear in the text whether it was the ignition lock or the door lock. I've not looked at my car to see if there is a difference.
I do know that the external locks are engineered differently - they have to resist extenal penetration by rain, road salt, fuel, diesel, mud etc. This is usually accomplished by a flap and a seal near the outside of the lock barrel.
Conversely the steering column lock has to detect when the key has been placed inside, so that the interior lights, the alarm and the "key left inside your car" warning signal etc are correctly activated. I can imagine this also involves a flap, but this time without the all weather seals. It could also of course involve a contact at the far end of the barrel where the tip of the key pushes against a switch mechanism.
I'm not an expert on this aspect of car design, I'm just relaying what I read on the UK based website. WD40 makes sense as long as you don't use too much.
As an aside, the style of the X type key (stainless steel shaft with angular plungers) is common to all European Fords and is much more robust than the crappy conventional style we get here in the USA (they don't bend for a start). The keys and locks are made in Germany by Kiekert and have been around since the late 1980's and are very reliable. So I'm surprised that a Jaguar would suffer from any failure mechanism linked to the locks.
I do know that the external locks are engineered differently - they have to resist extenal penetration by rain, road salt, fuel, diesel, mud etc. This is usually accomplished by a flap and a seal near the outside of the lock barrel.
Conversely the steering column lock has to detect when the key has been placed inside, so that the interior lights, the alarm and the "key left inside your car" warning signal etc are correctly activated. I can imagine this also involves a flap, but this time without the all weather seals. It could also of course involve a contact at the far end of the barrel where the tip of the key pushes against a switch mechanism.
I'm not an expert on this aspect of car design, I'm just relaying what I read on the UK based website. WD40 makes sense as long as you don't use too much.
As an aside, the style of the X type key (stainless steel shaft with angular plungers) is common to all European Fords and is much more robust than the crappy conventional style we get here in the USA (they don't bend for a start). The keys and locks are made in Germany by Kiekert and have been around since the late 1980's and are very reliable. So I'm surprised that a Jaguar would suffer from any failure mechanism linked to the locks.
#22
RE: Id still tell my buddy why to keep manuals
ORIGINAL: bojangles
This did not work for me, I tried the following and it made my remote work again.
From technical bulletins on jaguartechinfo.com ( I paid for a month of access)
OPEN driver door ( leave open )
Key to position one ( accessory position)
cycle key to position two ( ignition position ) and back to position one 4 times. the system will chime to say it is in program mode. leave key in position one
press any button on the key, the system will chime again.
turn key off.
Close the door
now the remote should work.
let us know if anyone gets any dead remotes to work again.
ORIGINAL: racerx82
cycle the ignition key three times, leaving it in the run position (car not running) press door lock button on transmitter 1, than on transmitter two.
That should do it.
cycle the ignition key three times, leaving it in the run position (car not running) press door lock button on transmitter 1, than on transmitter two.
That should do it.
From technical bulletins on jaguartechinfo.com ( I paid for a month of access)
OPEN driver door ( leave open )
Key to position one ( accessory position)
cycle key to position two ( ignition position ) and back to position one 4 times. the system will chime to say it is in program mode. leave key in position one
press any button on the key, the system will chime again.
turn key off.
Close the door
now the remote should work.
let us know if anyone gets any dead remotes to work again.
Have you guys seen the key transmitters that people sell on ebay? wonder if those are any good.
#23
this did not work for me either
Tried both did not work
From technical bulletins on jaguartechinfo.com ( I paid for a month of access)
OPEN driver door ( leave open )
Key to position one ( accessory position)
cycle key to position two ( ignition position ) and back to position one 4 times. the system will chime to say it is in program mode. leave key in position one
press any button on the key, the system will chime again.
turn key off.
Close the door
now the remote should work.
let us know if anyone gets any dead remotes to work again.[/QUOTE]
From technical bulletins on jaguartechinfo.com ( I paid for a month of access)
OPEN driver door ( leave open )
Key to position one ( accessory position)
cycle key to position two ( ignition position ) and back to position one 4 times. the system will chime to say it is in program mode. leave key in position one
press any button on the key, the system will chime again.
turn key off.
Close the door
now the remote should work.
let us know if anyone gets any dead remotes to work again.[/QUOTE]
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2004, batteri, car, control, dont, ignition, jaguar, key, start, tansmitter, transmiter, transmitter, type, work, working
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