Hey guys,
I want to lower my car with the Eibach lowering springs, but i have a queastion about that.
Can i just install the springs or do i also need to shocks to go with the new springs.
Also, how hard is it to intall lowering springs.

Thanks,
Jim

 

Jim, installing the lowering spring will not require any new shocks. You are not altering the bump stops, so, the wheels are going to operate throughout the same basic range (a bit less in the full droop position). So, you are good there.

As for installing the springs, it isn't that hard. You will need to remove the shock/strut assembly. A side note, make sure you have both wheels on the end that you are working on in the air. This will make disassembly easier as you won't have to fight the anti-sway bar. For the front wheels, you will need a spring compression tool (can be rented for free at most parts stores). Compress the spring and then remove the nut on the top of the strut. Now, relieve the spring tension and the spring can be removed. Installing is the reverse process. The big problem with pulling apart the suspension is that it requires a fair amount of disassembly unless you can slide the strut out through some creative mechanics.

As for the rear, what I would recommend is you support the rear on jack stands and then you slide a jack under the lower arm (use the joint where the spindle attaches to the lower arm, not on the arm itself as it will bend and twist on you). Then apply a slight bit of upward pressure. At this point you can disconnect 1 end of the shock. Using the jack, you can now uncompress the spring in a controlled fashion. pull out the spring, put in the new spring.

I have simplified things and if you want the step by step/nut by nut procedure, I will give you that too. But, if you have the JTIS CD, it has it on there with pictures.

 

thermo thank you so much for the help with the springs, im just getting a ballpark idea of how complicated it would be. so if i do decide to install the springs, i will most likely ask for the step by step procedure.

 

alright thermo i just bought the springs 2 minutes ago. do you think you could give me the step by step procedure if it isnt a bother? Thanks so much in advance

 

For the front wheels, this is the process:

1) Loosen the wheel hub nut.
2) Remove the wheel and tire
3) Detach the brake hose retaining bracket.
4) Detach the stabilizer link bar.
5) Secure the brake caliper anchor plate assembly to one side.
6) Remove the brake caliper and anchor plate assembly.
7) Remove the subframe reinforcement plate retaining bolts.
8) Loosen the subframe rear mount retaining bolt.
9) Loosen the subframe front mount retaining bolt.
NOTE: To prevent damage to the lower arm bushing, make sure the subframe is lowered before detaching the lower arm ball joint.
10) Detach the wheel knuckle.
11) Remove the lower arm ball joint retaining nut and bolt.
12) Reposition the lower arm.
13) Detach the wheel knuckle.
14)Remove and discard the wheel hub nut.
15) Using special tools, detach the halfshaft.
NOTE: With the aid of another technician, support the strut and spring assembly.Observe inner most retaining stud is marked with a paint spot for orientation.
16) Remove the strut and spring assembly.
17) Remove the wheel knuckle pinch bolt.
18) Remove the wheel knuckle. Using the special tool (large flat bladed screw driver), spread the wheel knuckle. Remove the wheel knuckle.
19) Using a spring compressor, take up load of the springs and then remove the nut on the top of the strut.
20) Remove cap of strut and then remove spring. Loosen spring compressor in preparation for installing new spring.

Install is essentially the reverse process. Of note:

Torque the wheel knuckle bolt to 85 NM.
Tighten the nuts holding the spring assembly to the body to 25 NM.
Tighten the lower A-arm ball joint nut to 83 NM.
Tighten the front and rear subframe bolt to 142 NM. The big bolts!!!
Tighten the rear subframe bolts (small bolts) to 35 NM.
Tighten the bolts for the front calipers to the knuckle to 133 NM.
Tighten the sway bar end link bolts to 48 NM.
Tighten the brake retaining clip to 48 NM.
Tighten the front wheel hub nut to 330 NM.

One bit of warning, after this procedure, you will need to take the car to an alignment shop and have them do a 4 wheel alignment. You will also need to have them do a sub frame alignment too. This isn't something that you can do in your driveway. may even be needed to take to a dealership to have them do. The way around this is if you can get the parts off without loosening both the front and rear large subframe bolts at the same time. By keeping one tight at all times, it should maintain your subframe alignment. May want to also use like a paint marker or something of the sort to trace around the subframe so you know where to reinstall it later.

The rear is going to be very similar. If you want the step by step for that, let me know and I will send that too.

 

alright thanks thermo, but i have a quick question. To keep the sub frame aligned should i only unbolt one strut at time so it stays aligned?

 

I would only do 1 side at a time so you have something to look at should you forget how things go together. But, as long as you keep 3 of the 4 bolts in at a time, should not be an issue with tossing off the alignment of the subframe. So, if two of you are working on the car, some communication will need to occur to make sure you keep only 1 bolt loose to the subframe at a time.

 

alright thanks again for the help thermo, i just cant wait for my springs to come so i can do the install!

 

Thermo, are you sure the stock shocks would handle the higher spring rates of the Eibachs? I have been looking at upgrading my X-Type to the Sport suspension because it is a system designed to work together. Once you upgrade springs with a higher spring than stock most OEM shocks are under damped and you have an oscillating effect going over bumps.

 

chknhwk, the stock ones should be just fine. The change in spring rate isn't that big of a difference. Sure, you can upgrade to the sport struts, but there is no need. The sport struts will just help keep the car a little bit flatter in hard cornering.

 

well they are coming tomorrow so i'll let you guys know!

 

Well since I had my X-Type on the track (New Hampshire Motor Speedway) after owning it about two months I'm guessing that's the route I should go.

 

ok i installed the two rear springs and for some reason i keep getting a weird noise from the back. When you lift the car up on a jack and then let it back down it makes a creaky noise that goes away after you put it down. That is the noise that i hear when im driving, i have installed them last night and since then i have driven about 40 miles. Is this noise the springs breaking in or is this noise going to be there permanantly? Also the car seems to be unlevel. Is this something that will be fixed when i get the alignment or did i do something wrong?

 

The noise could be swaybar bushings.

 

Sounds like swaybar bushings to me too. Could also be that your control arms are now sitting at a slightly different angle now and what you need to do is to momentarily loosen them all up and let the center rod reposition itself. The center rod gets pinched in place as you tighten the bolt and now you are trying to twist it around and the rubber may be squeaking from having to flex as much as it is. You can use a little bit of WD-40 and spray that on the rubber bushings for the sway bar and see if that helps things out. If the noise goes away, then you need a more permanent fix for the swaybar.

 

I am new to the x type and haven't been under the car yet so I could be wrong but when you took off your stock springs did they have rubber spring isolators on the springs?

When I lowered my s 10 my originals were bad and I left them out only because no one in town had them in stock and as my only transportation I had to get to work the next day anyways the metal to metal contact will make a creaking noise from time to time.

 

hmm ill try to tighten the sway bar bushings again, maybe some WD40. but yeah there were rubber strips withs the springs.

also thermo do i loosen the center rods when the wheels or on the ground or do i jack the car up? also is this something the alignment will fix once i get it done?

 

Jim, you want to try and loosen up the bolts and re-tighten them with the wheel in a near "normal ride height condition". So, to do this, you may end up putting the side of the car up on jack stands and then using a jack, lift up on the tire to push it into the correct position. Just make sure to keep some weight on the jack stands in case the jack slips.

 

the noise is gone! it was indeed the sway bar bushings that were loose! thanks for the help guys now all i need is an alignment and my car will be good to go.