lug nut removal help
#1
#2
RE: lug nut removal help
They are normal thread. Sometimes the stainless steel caps get mishappen and it's a bit hard for you to get the socket over them. May need toTAP the socket on with rubber a mallet to shape the cap again? They may also have been over tightened and in that case you may have to extend your wrench arm with a piece of pipe slipped over it for a bit more leverage.Careful not to break the wheel bolt. I got rid of my factory nuts with the stainless capsand got solid chrome instead.
PS don't foget to introduce yourself and your cat when you get a chance
PS don't foget to introduce yourself and your cat when you get a chance
#3
RE: lug nut removal help
I've had nothing but very bad experience with the factory lug-nuts. They may have been abused by a previous owner, but the first time I tried to take the wheels off, I ended-up having to chisel-off the covers on 3 of them, just to get 'em to turn.
In my very humble opinion, it's a poor design.
I've been looking for an inexpensive alternative to replace them all with.
Anybody?
In my very humble opinion, it's a poor design.
I've been looking for an inexpensive alternative to replace them all with.
Anybody?
#4
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#5
RE: lug nut removal help
It is very easy to ding the caps on the lug nuts especially when the nuts are hard to remove.
I believe the washer design on the lug nut is for use with the alloy wheels to keep the turning steel nut from direct contact with the alloy causing wear.
The first time I removed my wheel I had problems with several lug nuts and one wheel being stuck on the hub. The problem nuts were siezed up and the wheel was siezed to the hub and took at least an hour to remove. Now every time I remove the wheels I use anti-sieze on the lugs and on the washer part of the nuts. Also I smear anti-sieze on the back side of the wheel where it contacts the steel hub. Since I started doing this I've not had a problem removing the wheels.
There seems to be a chemical reaction causing somebonding between the alloy wheels and the steel parts.
I believe the washer design on the lug nut is for use with the alloy wheels to keep the turning steel nut from direct contact with the alloy causing wear.
The first time I removed my wheel I had problems with several lug nuts and one wheel being stuck on the hub. The problem nuts were siezed up and the wheel was siezed to the hub and took at least an hour to remove. Now every time I remove the wheels I use anti-sieze on the lugs and on the washer part of the nuts. Also I smear anti-sieze on the back side of the wheel where it contacts the steel hub. Since I started doing this I've not had a problem removing the wheels.
There seems to be a chemical reaction causing somebonding between the alloy wheels and the steel parts.
#6
RE: lug nut removal help
I replaced all of mine with solid chrome with the washer, for my factory wheels, from a company called LA Wheel & Tire. I think it was about $140 US for a set of 20. They were pretty much an exact match to the factory without the annoying stainless steel outer cap.
#7
Join Date: Sep 2008
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Comrade Gibby (11-06-2013)
#11
RE: lug nut removal help
ORIGINAL: BRUTAL
that nice little lugwrench thats in your trunk....throw it away and buy a 4 way, that pos does nothing but damage lug nuts..
that nice little lugwrench thats in your trunk....throw it away and buy a 4 way, that pos does nothing but damage lug nuts..
#12
Are the lugs standard size?
A mechanic I know said he didnt think they were and a "normal" lug wrench or socket wouldnt work and I should just take it to the dealer for a tire rotation.
If I buy new lugs, can I then get them rotated anywhere in the future?
My first Jag, so I'm being cautious.
Thanks for the help!
A mechanic I know said he didnt think they were and a "normal" lug wrench or socket wouldnt work and I should just take it to the dealer for a tire rotation.
If I buy new lugs, can I then get them rotated anywhere in the future?
My first Jag, so I'm being cautious.
Thanks for the help!
#13
Join Date: May 2008
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#15
#16
Agreed. 90 to 95 maximum torque (depending if anti-seize is applied).
Anyone buy or know where to buy replacement Lugs and Studs for use with the 18" Aruba rims (so looking for Lug with the washer)? Any aftermarket or alternative Make/Model I can use at an Autozone/Advance/O'Reilly's? The solid chrome would be nice but no parts place sells either Lugs or Studs to replace on the X Type. Anyone have luck using a Lug and Stud off of say, Contour/Mystique/LS?
Anyone buy or know where to buy replacement Lugs and Studs for use with the 18" Aruba rims (so looking for Lug with the washer)? Any aftermarket or alternative Make/Model I can use at an Autozone/Advance/O'Reilly's? The solid chrome would be nice but no parts place sells either Lugs or Studs to replace on the X Type. Anyone have luck using a Lug and Stud off of say, Contour/Mystique/LS?
#17
I own a 2002 X-Type with 2.5 engine and auto tranny. Just replaced ALL OEM lugnuts which I purchased from O'Reillys/Checkers for a total of $33.80 ($1.69 per lug). I had a local tire shop do the dirty work for $10.00. The brand is called Dorman with an item number of DOR 611-104.1. Word of advise, if you will do the job yourself and will throw away the OEM nuts, drill a small hole in the middle and spray anti-seize in the hole (i.e. WD-40 or such). Drive around to heat up the studs. Go to your garage, raise car and give tire a few kicks (this will further help loosen the lug nuts). Lower and with a breaker bar and proper size impact socket, loosen lug nuts. Remember, "Lefty Loosey...Righty Tighty." BTW, I have driven surface road and freeways about 300 miles since the new lug nuts have been installed and re-checked lug nuts with torque wrench and all is well. IMO, best to spend the $10 bucks to have the pros do this.
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2002 X-Type 2.5 Auto Trans.
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#18
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Just a note to the uninformed. If you apply any sort of anti-sieze to the lugnuts, you actually need to LOWER the applied torque by a certain amount (depends on the lube used, if in doubt, let me know and I will see what I can find out). Most lugnuts are designed to go on with no lube and therefore have a higher running torque and require more force to turn them once they start to get snug. By applying a lube, you are adding a slippery surface to the equation and to get the same sort of clamping force, you need to apply a lower applied torque. If I remember right, assuming that the dry lugnut is a relative value of 1 (ie, stud should have say 100 ft-lbs of torque applied, you need to apply 100 ft-lbs of torque), using a lube like say Molykote M55 is a value of 0.83 (or, only need to torque to 83 ft-lbs to achieve the same clamping force as that for a dry stud being torqued to 100 ft-lbs). Every lube has a value like this and if I do some looking around, I can find that relative number.
#20
dont mean to revive such an old thread but I too have issues with my lugs and contemplating ordering some oem ones to replace the rounded ones i have on there or if you guys know if these would fit 12x1 5 Chrome Mag Lug Nuts w Washer Brand New Wheel Nuts 13 16" Hex Set of 20 | eBay