I have a 02 x-type 2.5 and my engine light is on, the abs light is on and in the window if the dash it says dcs system fault? Can any body help with my baby?

 

Does it go away if you restart the car? Might need to take it to an Autozone or something and have them check the codes.

 

mommy0311, based on what you are describing, one of your wheel speed sensors has failed. Unfortunately, without some codes or some other information, saying which wheel it is would be really difficult to say. But, based on past experience here, I would venture to say it is one of your back wheels.

Do you have someone that is a neighborhood mechanic that can do a quick look at your car. If so, have them remove the rear wheels and remove the speed sensor there. They should be able to flash a light down the hole and see a toothed gear inside the hole. If they don't see a gear on one side, then that is your problem wheel. A new CV shaft would then be required.

If you need more help with this, let me know. I'll do what I can, but it may require you to find some information for me. I will tell you how to get the information.

 

Thanks guys for responding....sidewalkman, no they do not cut off when the car starts up and I did get the codes from the car P0171, P0174, P1000, and C1145.
Thermo, I will get your advice checked in a couple of days to see if thats the cause. But in the mean can you tell me how to get the other info you were talking about....
Hey guys I was told at autozone that it may be a O2 sensor but they were unsure...also the car when it starts for the 1st time does sound good to me but after a min or 2 or a drive its fine and sometimes you cant gently put it into drive....more info would really help if you all could. I would really appreciate it. Thanks for responding as well.

 

The C1145 looks to be RH front wheel speed sensor circuit fault. The two P codes point likely to one or more of the three common vacuum leaks. You can search the P0171/P0174 here on the forum as all three are easy fixes. The speed sensor may require a bit more $ and effort.

 

mommy, like was mentioned, because of getting the P0171 and P0174 codes, those are for a vacuum leak, which will cause the check engine light. You can check for 2 of the problems for the vacuum leak even with limited knowledge of cars. What you will need to do is to open the hood of the car. Now, if you look back near the windshield, you will see a black line in the shape of an S running from the top of the engine over to infront of the driver (connects to a big round black piece directly infront of where the driver sits). Run your hand along the entire length of this tube (tube is about the diameter of a pencil). Do you feel anywhere on this tube that there is something your finger would catch on (ie, cracked tube)? If you do feel something, that is your problem, it needs to be replaced. It is like $15 at your local Jaguar dealership. A neighbor or significant other should be able to help you get it installed.

Next, using a large phillips screwdriver, undo the 4 screws holding the cover to the top of the engine (1/4 turn and they come free). Then temporarily remove the oil fill cap and remove the cover to the engine, reinstall the oil cap. If you look up near the front bumper, you will see a black box wtih "JAGUAR" written on the top of it. THis is your air box. You will see a large (4" in diameter) tube coming off to the right side, going to the far side of the engine. If you look to the left of this tube, you will see a rubber tube about 1" in diameter running right next to this big tube. Wrap your fingers around this tube up near the black box and see if you can feel a tear in the hose on the back side (the side facing the engine). If you feel a tear there, replace this hose. Again, a $15 part at your local jaguar dealership. Replacing it is easy. Give a gentle tug on each end and the hose will slide off. Push the new hose on. Just a note. This hose has been redesigned and the new one will have ribs on it, where your current one may not have the ribs. Reinstall the engine cover when all done by reversing the directs at the beginning of this paragraph.

If you don't find an issue with either one of these. Then odds are it is an IMT problem. This is a little bit more involved, but still easy (something you can do). First, you will need to go to the dealership and ask them for "two IMT O-rings". They will cost you about $5 each. You should get 2 round rings of rubber. Now, with the engine cool (only for the comfort of your hands), open the hood and walk over to the passenger side front tire and look at the engine. If you look near the windshield, you will see 2 black caps (one on top of the other) on the engine. These are the IMT valves. Undo the two screws, pull the black cap straight out, remove the o-ring, slide the new on and tighten down. Of note, the bottom one is a little more difficult because you can't pull it all the way out (interference from the engine). But, you can pull it out part way, then you can get the o-ring out of its groove and then stretch it over the outside part of the cap. THen you can stretch the new o-ring over the end of the cap. Tighten the cap down. As I recall, for this you will need a 6mm wrench/socket. Probably take you 15 minutes to do this job. It is really easy.

As for the speed sensor issue (C1145), I would recommend taking it to a shop to have them look at it unless you have someone that knows how to work on cars. Replacing the sensor is easy to do, but based on the code, it can be a number of things and I would hate to tell you just to start tossing parts at the car hoping to fix it. If you have someone that you trust to look at the car, I can give you some checks to do. But, that is up to you.

 

Hello guys, thank you so much for the advice. I will be putting all of these things to use to see if they work. Hopefully, they will work and I can get my baby back working properly.
Thermo, I have somebody to look at the car but I would like to give him some advice as far what he can look at as far as with the code c1145. If there is more info that you can provide I will really appreciate it. I really appreciate all the advice now and if more info can be provided I would love it and I'm very thankful. By the way, I changed the ribbed pcv hose already so I will be trying the other two options that you gave me. Thanks again and I will post what happens with the new fixes that I do but still more advice is always helpful. Thanks again

 

mommy, first things first, have your friend do a once over of the wiring associated with the right front wheel. Make sure that nothing appears damaged, the wiring is clear of moving parts, etc. Follow it back as far as possible. Next, remove the speed sensor from the spindle and also disconnect the plug to the sensor. Set the sensor off to the side after performing a visual of the sensor to make sure it is still in good condition. Using a flashlight, look down the hole and see if you can see a toothed gear inside the hole. No gear, you have a problem with the front hub. It will need replaced.

Back to the sensor. You will see 2 prongs on the sensor where the plug goes. Connect up a multimeter across these 2 pins set to the 2V DC scale (using an analog multimeter or a digital meter with an analog scale on the bottom is preferred) and then with the sensor near an open area, pass a screwdriver past the tip of the sensor and see if the multimeter jumps (get as close as you can while moving the screw driver at a decent speed). If the multimeter jumps, the sensor is most likely good.

If you make it to this point without finding a smoking gun, then I would recommend taking the car to the shop to have them look at it. Hope this helps.