Only cause it my old car I missed

Basically before I sold my car , I went to change spark plugs and coils less then 6 months ago . That involes removing the intake , while doing so I know you have went thru same problem , of the bolt getting stripped inside making your pull out the intake from the holder . Well after pulling it off and changing spark plugs and coils , I glued those metal things bsck into spot then put intake . After hooking everything up it still ran fine but sometimes message would appear ( cruise not available ) poping on at times

knew it was the intake not being fastened well ,

I got tired of driving the 5 speed so I sold it to a friend , he wrecked it busting radiator and bending aframe .

I bought it back , car still ran , with no messages only check engine light like always , reving was no problem

Changed radiator and thought I could go ahead and fix intake problem witch mean to removing injectors getting a new plastic housing that fastened intake on . Putt everything back togther no messages untill car got warm and boom. . Cruise not available. Came on. Then went off then back on ..

Ive looked for everything , leakes , pulling intake of lining it up perfect . Making sure injectors are straight , all wiring plug .. etc

Still can get the message away , went to autozone and these codes appeared

P1314-misfire rate catalyst damage fault - bank 2
P0300-random misfire detected
P0301
P0302
P0303
P0304
P0305
P0306
P1313-misfire rate catalyst damage fault - bank 1
P1316-misfire detected - cylinder 6
P0037-ho2s - bank 1 sensor 2
P0333-knock senser 2 circuit high input bank 2
P0335-crankshaft position sensor A circuit
P0336-crankshaft sensor A circuit range
P0341-camshaft sensor A bank 1 or single sensor
P0420-catalyst system efficiency below threshold
P1111-system pass

Please help me try to fix my ( cruise message light )

 

With so many, it would help to know which came first. Ideally you'd keep all the freeze frame data then clear them and see what happens.

Get your own tool with live data as you look to need it. elm327 is usually good enough.

Don't drive it except to fix it as it may need cats now but if not is likely to if you drive it.

 

Robert, I think you have a few issues going on. But, they can possibly be all tied to one issue though too. So humor me with this check. Start up the car and let it idle. Get into the car and turn on the seat heaters, rear defroster, and the dash fan on as high as it will go. Let the car run like that for about 5 minutes. After this time, place your hand over each of the battery terminals. Are the terminals cold, warm, or hot? Odds are because of the engine heat, the terminals will not be cold, but more like the engine bay ambient temp. In a lot of cases, you are going to find atleast one of the terminals significantly hotter (like if you touch it you will burn yourself hot). This cable will need to be replaced. You may find that both cables are hot. In short, when the battery cables go bad, they develop an internal resistance and this causes them to get hot and it messes with the voltage inside the car and makes the computers think there is a host of other problems going on.

Assuming your battery terminals are good. I would next start with the grounding post for the coils. If you look behind the passenger side headlight (US model vehicle), you will see where there is a group of wires (6 of them) that are bolted to the block of the engine. If you follow these back, they are the ground wires for the coils. Undo the bolt, wire brush the bolt and the terminals along with the block and then tighten everything back down. If you get some corrosion there, this can cause the coils to not spark correctly, leading to the misfires and a host of other errors (P1316/P1313/p0037).

Lets see what you have at this point and then we can dive further into this.

 

Hey Thermo, he has the P1111 code. Does that code mean all the other codes have cleared? Or can that one stay with current active codes? Just wondering.

 

Okay I went out this morning and started it and turned on everything I was told to .. terminals never got hot stayed cold , then I check for those grounded behind headlight .. and sanded them and put them back . Started car same problem ? My cars is in the worse limp mode on jag . I can't even go 30 mph or get to 2000 rpm .. this has me stumped ... and I will figure it out with out taking it to jaguar lol
But this cruise not available is killing me

 

You should always have P1111 even with other codes, unless you cleared codes recently when the P1111 will be P1000 until the OBD monitors set (if they do).

Both are Pending codes, so not tested e.g. by emissions/smog places.

 

I just got back from outside , went and changes imt upper and lower . Lower one was making a hissing nosie so i change it . Top was okay but changed it anyway . Im clue less on what is causeing it to go into limp mode . Maybe it is the 02 sensors causing

 

What year is your Jag? Is the hissing gone? You could have Autozone check the battery and alternator. Make sure they are good. Perhaps take a look at the fuses.

 

Crazy problem ended up being crank sensor , change that and boom fast car again . Went to autozone and got scanned and same codes popped up but runs amazing tho .. maybe if I clear it . Thanks for all the help you guys
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