...and I thought it was all over. But it's not. And I re-read the stuff I found. The alternator should only give the 18 volt charge on the overrun, and only if battery is down. It causes misfires and puts the EML on. So I checked with the supplier of the alternator and he sent me another one. So, today, I got back under the bonnet and did it all over again. The new alternator is a Visteon item, as fitted during build, so I thought, this time, it will be ok.
It is ok, all voltages as they should be. I'm getting 13.7volts after a few minutes, dropping to 12.6 after about 5 miles, so that's good. Only problem is that bl--dy battery light is on! I'm beginning to think there is a problem with the car now, either in the wiring or the ECU. Hope it's not the latter, but I'll get more info when I speak to the supplier. Going to have to phone him anyway to arrange to send the dodgy one back. I'll keep you all updated...

 

Hi Terrazen, just wondering what the outcome of your issues were in the end? I'm currently trying to remedy my charging issues on my '08 x-type 2.0D estate, currently attributed to the alternator, with a replacement used analogue unit for the Visteon that was in it, a Lucas LRB00497 that came out of a Mondeo 2.2D also rated at 90A.
I am waiting for it to arrive before fitting, so don't yet know if it will cure it, but the old one certainly had indications of having gone bad (my post, that I hijacked, is quite lengthy: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-lights-226903). I've been trying to read round the internet on it but oftentimes the actual solutions and outcomes don't get reported in the threads in the end.
Incidentally, mine has ('had', as I need to replace it as well) a calcium lead battery [Vetech Premium Excel 80A 720Ah] when I got it just over 2 years back

 

I've owned 3 x-types and every time I've replaced an alternator I removed the regulator from inside the bad one and placed it in the rebuilt one. I learned the first time that aftermarket regulators all say they are compatible but all cause the battery light to stay in.

This time I've ordered a used one for eBay. Has anyone ever found a new OEM Denso regulator that works?






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You're not going to believe this, but it burnt me already. when replacing the alternator also do the air conditioning compressor upgrade as it will be out.

Before replacing an alternator on an x-type run the car till it is warm, the longer the better as i did an hour ride.

Get a non contact thermometer and take the temperature of bot the positive and negative cables.

Are they around the same temperature?

If not replace the one that is to hot, probably the negative, While at it, put another negative cable from the engine to a frame mount then back to the battery if you can.

On my car the positive was about 134 degrees and the negative was 202 degrees.

No charging problems now, i have a spare alternator and ice cold air.

Good luck

 

Thanks for this observation. I've had wandering voltage for a while ( I have a little voltmeter in the cigarette lighter and watch it closely) and after I drive I checked the cables. The negative was too hot to touch, so I threw a handful of snow on it and it sizzled and it melted right away. I took off the cable from the body and cleaned all the connections ( the bolt to the body was rusty), coated the bolt and the connections with copper grease and reconnected.

Then I tested it again, turned on the front and rear heated windshields and blower on and the cable is cold. So far, the voltage is rock solid too, and higher than before. It settles to a nice 13.4V, and previously it was lower (sometimes much lower) than that.