Just thought I'd introduce myself to the community as I hope to learn a lot concerning my recent purchase, particularly with fault codes that are coming up. I bought a 2004 X-type 3.0 AWD automatic. I took it in to have a wheel bearing and half shaft bearing replaced and they did code check while there. These are the codes that popped up:

p0106 MAP sensor
p0121 throttle pedal sensor
p0333 knock 2 sensor
p1108
p1146 generator load low input
p1260 security input
p1229 electronic throttle control
p1582 flight recorder data is stored

Naturally, I was a little freaked out at the list the mechanic handed me, dreading some serious money spending in my near future. I have researched--and am still researching--about these codes and am open to suggestions on possible fixes, especially as I have yet to smog the car and am pretty sure it will fail spectacularly. From what I can tell/assume, p0106, p0121, p0333, and p1229 are probably the more important issues with which should be first dealt with with regards to passing smog. (i'm in Cali, btw)

As far as how the car runs, the only issue I have encountered is a sputtering/choking under moderate to heavy acceleration in drive when it kicks down a gear or two, almost like a speed governor, but more severe. It goes away when I back off the throttle a bit and I have yet to experience when I shift manually. Beyond that, the car runs great and has a decent ride (except I have a feeling the shocks/struts should be replaced soon, but that's another issue).

I would appreciate any points to any links concerning removal/servicing properly of the MAP sensor, throttle body and/or throttle body position sensor, and any other recommended "to do/should do" for an X-type with 172,000 miles.

I have also purchased an OBDII bluetooth adapter (BAFX brand) so that I can check and clear codes as I fix my issues. The adapter and Torque pro app connect and I get live data just fine, but the only code that ever pops up for me is p1000, even after running/driving it for a while. Any tips for this?

Other issues/info about the car:
*ABS light is on
*brake light is on (I suspect it's probably due to the fact that the e-brake does not engage; the mechanic said the cable was quite rusty)
*There is an oval amber light directly below the speedo that is always on and I have no clue what it means
*sunroof is stuck in the tilted up position. I can hear the motor try and move when pressing the forward button, but acts as though is stuck and the back button does nothing
*mechanic seemed to think the battery is too small (it's about 2/3 the size of the battery tray) and may be a the cause to the generator fault code
*key fob buttons so worn that they don't press the internal fob switches, so I removed the rubber piece so that I can engage the locks as the key in the door does not work and pressing the interior lock button only works when the door is closed
*left rear side marker light gone
*radio installed half-assed, complete with a bezel from another car that sports an additional hazard light switch...you know, in case you need double the hazard lights I guess.
*the steering wheel logo is devoid of paint and quite worn (previous owner horn-happy?)

Sorry for the long post, but I just wanted to get out there and soak up any wisdom anyone is willing to offer. Cheers!

 

Rough, from the sounds of things, you probably have a battery that is too small and more than likely on the edge of dying. First, remove the battery cover and see if the battery says that it is a "Type 94R". SHould be right on the top. If you see it saying "Type XX" where XX is some other number, then you have the wrong battery installed. THese cars are really touchy with the battery that is installed and if it starts to get weak, it will cause all sorts of random errors and whatnot.

As for the ABS light, I would venture to guess that you have a wheel speed sensor (most likely a rear one) that is bad. Granted, depending on how knowledgeable your shop is, if they install the front wheel bearing backwards, that will cause the ABS light to come on as the wheel speed sensor is only on 1 side of the bearing and if you put it in backwards, the one wheel will not see the indicator in the bearing. HOpefully you can pull up the C Codes with a better code reader and you are looking for C1145 (LF), C1155 (RF), C1165 (LR), or C1175 (RR). Once you know the wheel, you can figure out the speed sensor with minimal effort. If in doubt, let us know and we can help you out.

Do some looking here and you will find a few posts on how to fix the sunroof. It will take a little bit of work, but you can fix it yourself most likely.

As for the marker light, you can most likely find a spare one on e-bay or they should be fairly easy to find in a local wrecking yard. The light is common to all years of the X-Type. So, once you find an X-Type, the light in question will fit your car.

As for the e-brake, this is a common problem and in most cases, it is the e-brake lever on the caliper itself that sticks, not the cable. You can remove both rear wheels and apply the e-brake. You should see where the cable attaches to the calipers and you should see one side move and the other not. The side that doesn't move is your bad side. Most likely, if you look at the pads, you will see one side that has lots of pad left and the other side will have very little pad. The side with very little pad is the side with a bad caliper. Replace the caliper and that should fix your e-brake lever issue.

As for the P1000 code, it is not going to clear until you take care of the ABS light.

If you need more help, keep posting here and we will get you taken care of.

 

Thank you for the quick reply. When they replaced the bearings they also replaced the wheel sensor (right front wheel) as it was dead and mangled. The ABS light was on prior to the work being done, so it could be one of the other sensors. I will definitely look into it. As for the battery it says group size 35, so I assume it's wrong. That will definitely be one of my first fixes and hopefully it helps with some of the codes.

 

The shop that read the codes for you initially, specifically ask them to read the "C Codes". The wheel speed sensors are under those codes, not the P Code list. If you had 2 wheel speed sensors that were dead, then your speedo would not have worked which will cause all sorts of other issues. So, hopefully you are simply experiencing a bad wire/terminal issue with that same wheel. Granted, I would not assume that they put the bearing in properly. Guys have chased a problem like this only to find that the bearing was backwards.

 

Welcome to the forums! You have definitely come to the right place. You won't find a group of more friendly helpful people anywhere. This is such a great place I hang around here even though I sold my car about six months ago.

Sounds like the previous owner either neglected the car and/or was cheap and half-assed a lot of things on it when it came to maintenance and repairs. Probably the best thing to do first off would be to get a new proper battery and erase the codes to see what comes back. A lot of weird codes can pop up if the battery is low and you don't know how old some of them might be. Then can start fresh and you will know what is actually an issue now and pick those off one by one.

For your sunroof there is a procedure to rest it. Not sure if that would help you, but worth a shot I copied this from one of the threads on here:

Press the sunroof switch forward to move the sliding roof panel into the tilted position.
Release the sunroof switch.
Press and hold the sunroof switch forward until the sliding roof panel moves slightly. This may take 30 seconds or more.
Release the sunroof switch.
Immediately press and hold the sunroof switch in the forward position. The sliding roof panel will move down and rearward to the open position, and then forward into the closed position. Do not release the sunroof switch until the sliding roof panel has stopped completely.
Your sunroof panel should now be reset.

God luck. Hope you will be enjoying your new ride soon!

 

I didn't see the City, State, or Country in which you are located. (Maybe I missed it.) This Forum is a great way to learn about our vehicles with a lot of no-cost experience! I would also suggest that you join your local Jaguar Club. that is also an avenue for great advice from service, purchasing parts, restoration, etc. Good luck!

 

Update:

I went and purchased the correct battery today and reset the codes, so let's see what happens. It's funny: I put the new battery in the trunk with the intent of installing it in the morning, I get in to leave the parking lot, and the car won't start. Talk about timing. So I installed it there in the parking lot and thought might as well get my core exchange now so I don't have to come back later. It was the first time in having the car for two weeks now that I lost enough power to prevent it from starting. Although I suspect a recent problem just in the last two days had something to do with it: The electric fan stays on for a few minutes after shutting off the car, so that probably is what drained the battery.

My temp gauge reads right in the middle and it hasn't be hot enough around here to warrant it staying on, so tomorrow in the daylight I'm going to check out the coolant level and if that's fine I'll check the fan relay and thermostat. Anything else that could cause this?

Another thing, after putting in the new battery, my auto-up function on the windows stopped working but auto-down still does. I assume there's a way to reprogram this with button presses?

@ Alfadude:
Unfortunately that button combination does not work with my sunroof, which leads me to believe the switch is bad and/or the motor is stuck/bad.

@ WayneCountyBill:
Los Angeles, CA. I guess I should update my profile.

Cheers!

 

Welcome!
This site is great, with several very knowledgable and helpful "characters" ;@)
The coolant temp gauge should always be a touch under halfway when the car is warmed up.
Mine has never changed even a tad in 70,000 miles.

 

Roughrhoads, to reset the windows, you simply start with all the windows up. Press and hold a window button in the down position and let the window go all the way down. Once the window hits the bottom, keep holding the button down for another 3 seconds (may hear a relay click too). Release the down button and now depress the up button. Keep holding the button once the window hits the top for another 3 seconds (may hear a relay click). Repeat this for the 3 remaining windows. This should restore your auto-up/down feature. If a window doesn't relearn this, then you may have to hold the button a little longer on that window. You can do this as many times as you want to each window to get it to program correctly (don't have to do all 4).

 

I'm reading conflicting info on knock sensors on this and other boards. Some say there are two, others only one on my particular Jag. Which is correct? And where is/are the location(s)? Also, It seems there are typically two differently priced sensors at my local parts stores, one for about $30, the other in the $100 to $130 range. If I only have one to replace, which one sounds right? Besides the price, the only difference I can see is a note in the description stating the cheaper sensor is for top of engine, the pricier one on side of engine. So, two sensors? Fyi, I'm getting a knock 2 fault code and I also read that that code doesn't necessarily mean it's the #2 sensor.

On a side note, I'm in the process of buying some tools and would like any input/suggestions on any particular/specialty tools that are recommended. I plan on starting with a general kit and add pieces as I go.

 

Someone correct me if I am wrong but that fan you hear remaining on after you turn off ignition is by design. It is supposed to stay running for about 10 mins after turning off car and it also starts up on its own when you open the driver door. Its a design feature and I read this in the How To section soon after buying my X-Type. It concerned me until I came across this tidbit

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nd-dash-10583/

 

I'm pretty sure the electric radiator fan is not supposed to stay on at full speed for ten minutes after turning off the car, which is what mine was doing. As it turns out, my coolant was low and I have corrected the issue and so far the fan no longer stays on after shut down.

 

Rough, per the JTIS manual (the service manual for your car), there is only a single knock sensor and it is located between the cylinder heads in the valley of the engine.

As for why some engines require 2 sensors and some only one, it all goes to where the sensor is located. If you mount the sensor on the outside of the block, ie, on the side, then the sensor is too far away from the cylinders on the other side of the engine to pick up the knocking produced in those cylinders. The benefit being that because the sensor is closer to the cylinders on the same side, it is easier to detect the knocking.

Where, if you put the sensor in the valley between the cylinder heads, the sensor is close enough to all the cylinders that a single sensor can detect the knocking. But, like I elude to above, the sensor has a harder time sensing the knocking and therefore may not always detect it.

 

Awesome. I came across the thread in the FAQ about changing the sensor and plan on doing the work this weekend. The bit about the pry bar on a hard-to-get-to coolant elbow is a concern, but we'll see how it goes.

 

Yes the comments I made were for interior fan and not the fans by your radiator