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I need some help, cause I have a problem with the main lights of my 2009 x-type.
If I use the light switch they don't turn on, not in the first neither the 2nd position.
I shorted 3 to 5 on relay 1 and they turn on. Also the fuses 1 and 4 are ok.
Replaced the light switch , still don't work...
So I reckon a problem with the cable between fuse box and switch or between switch and lights???
I don't know which cables to check on the light switch.
There are 16 of them. Number 4, the black one, is ground and gives me 0 Ohm .
So I would need to know which cable comes from the fusebox,and which goes to the main beams.
Hi Johan,
Check fuses F29 (10A or 20A for HID models) and F30 (7.5A or 20A HID models).
Also check relay R11 operation.
They drive the DIP lights as main beam I think is your high beam 'Dazzle' lights which are the fuses and relay you have checked already.
There appear to be no other fuses upstream of the relay for just powering lighting.
Also just to clarify....you do still have working side lights (park lights) and marker lights when you go to position 1 on the headlight switch?
I just checked again, but R11 is for the dim beam, the outer 2 lights.
My problem is that on position 1, I have no lights at all (also no parking lights or fog lights)
On position 2, I have the 2 outer lights that work, but still not the inner ones.
However when I shortcut R1 the inner lights come on. When I pull the left lever I also have the 'Dazzle' lights that work.
So relay, fuses and light bulbs are working fine. Still they dont work when I use the light switch.... (neither the original or the new one)
Lovely place you are living, loved it when I stayed there
When you rotate the headlight switch to position 1 and 2, do you get the small green light indicator showing up in your instrument cluster? (regardless of whether the side and headlights are coming on).
You should also get backlights for heater and radio, glovebox and cigarette lighter outer ring light up on side light position.
If you are getting the instrument cluster light indicator and interior backlighting, then you would appear to be getting the right output from the GEM that should also operate R1.
If R1 is not operating then you are only looking at three possibilities....
Bad R1 relay.
Loss of continuity from GEM IP6-13 (output) to power distribution fuse box connector JB202-11, through connector JB129-18.
Loss of earth from power distribution fuse box connector JB202-12
If you are not getting the instrument cluster light indicator when you rotate the headlight switch to position 1 and 2, then you are missing the headlight activation signal from GEM (IP6-13).
What I am puzzle with in your scenario is you missing sidelights when on switch position 1 but getting them on position 2 (but still no main beam). That sounds like a headlight assembly earthing issue, but the left and right headlight assemblies are separately earthed, so you might get the fault on one side but both at the same time would be very odd.
That being said, there are many faults reported and traced by members of this forum traced to wiring and earth problems on our cars.
Thanks for your answer and sorry for my late reply. To busy at work.
So all the lights on the instrument cluster and interior are working.
Relay 1 has been replaced with a new one.
So time to start measuring.
The fuse box connector is the one underneath the engine bay fuse box i'll assume.
But where is the GEM?
Sorry but not to well known with all of the car electricity's wiring.
The fuse box in the engine bay behind the battery is referred to as the 'power distribution fuse box' which is where your main headlight and fog fuses are, along with the R1 Main beam/fog changeover relay is, Dip headlights and their control relay R11.
In the left side of the passenger cabin under the dash is the 'passenger fuse box', where the fuses for side marker lamps in the headlight assemblies, side marker lamps in front guards etc.
The GEM is the 'General Electronics Module' which is located in the right side front foot well by the A pillar.
If you are getting the "little green sun symbol" side/headlight indicator illuminating in your instrument cluster when you go to position 1 and 2 of your headlight switch, then I believe the GEM itself is probably Ok.
I'll come back to you once I have had a chance to go through the schematics more. Hopefully I can give you some step by step tests and measurements to do to help narrow this puzzle down.
Hi Johan,
I think we need to approach this as two separate faults, so let's start with side lights first.
You are going to need a basic digital multimeter that can test voltages and resistance, which you can pick up from an auto parts store or electronics part supplier.
You don't need anything too fancy, just a basic model.
Starting with the side lights.
Start by checking F38 continuity....this fuse provides 12v supply to the light switch for the sidelights.
If that is good then you should have 12 volt power going to the red wire arriving to the light switch connector IP17 pin 8.
That voltage emerges from the headlight switch on IP17 pins 4 & 5 when the headlight switch is in position 1 or 2 (both are red wires as well).
Those red wires go back to the passenger junction fuse box plugs IP202 pin 9 and IP203 Pin 11.
However only plug IP203 pin 11 feeds the side lamps via two fuses F47 & F48. (IP202 pin 9 only feeds the glovebox lamp sidelight status indicator via F55 so we can ignore that at present).
The output from those fuses (F47 & F48) appear on IP220 pin 1 and pin 11 which then go to the headlight assemblies.
If you have traced voltages through to this point OK, then you have a wiring issue on Orange/Green or Orange/Yellow wires that go directly to headlight assemblies.
Now we will change thinking to main beams
Let's start by removing Relay R1 from the power distribution fuse box.
Now set your headlight switch to position 2 and with your multimeter check if you have 12 volts present to Pin 1 of the relay socket. If so go to step 5 below.
If not, then check if 12 volts are present to JB202 pin 11, tracing the Green/Orange wire backwards to JB129 pin 18 which leads back to GEM module IP16 pin 13.
If you have 12 volts to RI pin 1, check if you also have 12 volts to R1 pin 3 (12 volt the unfused power supply to run main beams).
Check you have continuity to earth from relay R1 pin 2 to chassis earth which is via JB202 pin 12. (Ground faults are common and can be corroded earthing lugs to grounding point).
Now turn off headlight switch, put R1 back into the power distribution fuse box adn turn headlight switch back on to position 2 again.
Test for 12 volts present at fuses F1 and F4 which then come out at JB202 pins 5 (Green/Brown) & 6 (Green/Orange) that go to their respective headlight assemblies.
Sorry, there is a lot of tracing to be done, but I have tried to lay it out in a logical start point to end point procedure for you.
Hopefully you can check off each step to narrow down where the problems lie.....good luck and let us know how you are getting on.
Thank you very much for your answer, it's been a great help.
So first the side lights, they are not on F38 but on F29 and F30 (Dim Beam)
And I am still not sure or they should be on in position 1 or only position 2 as they are
I think the EU spec Jaguar has different lighting set up then the UK version
But I will follow the rest of the instructions if they are still correct, considering the fuse is different.
More important the main lights (reason of MOT failure)
R1 receives 12v so that's fine.
With the contact off it also has earth, however and now it get's interesting
when you turn the contact on, the earth is gone....
So the black cable JB202 pin 12 must have a damage somewhere??
Question 2, can I cut this cable and make a connection straight to the chasis or do I have to trace it all the way back to find the problem?
Again thank you very much for your help, I think we are getting close now.
Sorry for delayed response, was offline for a few days.
That sounds encouraging for the main lights.
The black wire goes to the shared chassis grounding point just behind the power distribution box.
That wire is also showing to perhaps have a splice in it as well (noted in my schematic as JBS55).
Now these grounding lugs can get tainted and give poor connections, so it is wise to undo them and clean each with some fine sandpaper until nice and bright, the chassis landing point too!
Take note (photo) of the order of the lugs going onto that earthing point, as some earth points the order of connections can be important.
As for the side lights, I am a little confused.......but I am getting there...Scandinavian headlight operation is different with daytime running.
OK...so for you the relay R11 is told to work when your headlight switch is in position 0 and position 2 from what I can see.
As soon as ignition is in running mode and car started, you should have your DIP headlights.
Assuming that, then checking relay R11 you should find 12 volts power onto Pin 1 to supply the relay coil, and the relay is controlled via Pin 3 which is earth switching back through your headlight switch which provides earth when in position 0 or position 2 (for Scandinavian spec).
If Pin 3 of relay is not getting grounded through headlight switch, then you are checking Green/Black wire from JB202 pin 10 from power distribution fuse box to master lighting switch plug IP17 pin 13. The headlight switch is grounding via IP17 pin 6 to grounding point G37BL (right hand side of crossbeam under dash - see illustration above).
Good luck....hope you get to the end of this problem soon.
You might want to download a PDF of your model's schematic for future reference.
Check out the Stickys at the top of the forum.
Hi Johan,
You are welcome.......really glad to hear you got it solved....well done.
What had happened to the wire?
Just a corroded connection or had it been chewed by an uninvited guest?
On a side note: Have you any plans to come back over to NZ at some stage again?
The international borders here are showing signs of opening up again, possibly nearly fully open by April 2022.....depending on how the world is handling the variants.
A huge number of Kiwis have been struggling to get back here over the course of the pandemic with limited managed isolation capacity and limited flights.
We have had well over 200K return through the hotel quarantine system so far, and the whole system is about to switch to a home quarantine/managed quarantine model to increase throughput now we have our general population vaccination levels up to around 90%.
Thx mate. It was a wire that got damaged, probably due to a leaking brake booster unit that I had changed before....
That brake fluid eats through paint and wire isolation, messy stuff.
I would love to come back to NZ, had an amazing time there, especially when living on the south island.
But right now with two small kids, not gonna happen very soon I'm afraid. I will though, one day.
No main lights
