No start , no crank

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Oct 4, 2024 | 07:32 AM

#21

cujet

Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2011

Posts: 368

Likes: 82

From: West Palm Beach, Florida

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikemechanic18

hi i noticed that the thread is already few years ago, but i have a same issue with one of our x type in our shop which has the same issue no start no crank. upon checking the red light on the coin holder is not blinking when i insert the key, and even the buttons on the remote on those 2 keys are not working, even if i reset it via position 2 and 3 on the ignition switch. i heard a beep but when pressing the buttons nothing happens. then i notice that the ground provided by the ECU to the starter relay is has no connection, i tried jumping the negative from the relay through the battery then tried firing it up, and yes it rotates but the engine is not firing. and when i remove the jumper cable to the battery ground, it wont rotate again, any ideas fellas?

It sure seems like my instrument cluster was/is part of the issue. Before you get too deep into it, try cleaning the white and black connectors on the back of the instrument cluster. As I mentioned above, I inspected the circuit board carefully with a very high quality microscope. The quality of that circuit board is 50/50. The layout is OK, as the components and traces are well spaced. But the solder joints are odd looking, and it is not coated with any form of 'conformal coating' to protect it. In my case it had deposits crusted up between surface mount components. I don't know yet if cleaning fixed it for good.

Dec 16, 2024 | 11:16 AM

#22

cujet

Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2011

Posts: 368

Likes: 82

From: West Palm Beach, Florida

No luck fixing the issue so far.

Won't start, bang on the dash and it comes to life.

May 29, 2025 | 09:21 PM

#23

cujet

Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2011

Posts: 368

Likes: 82

From: West Palm Beach, Florida

Update that might help someone:

In desperation, I disconnected the battery, reconnected and tried. No luck. I then put a big lithium jumper battery on the car and tried again. No start, ODO still dashed out. But I noticed that my cigarette lighter voltage readout tool said 17V. I moved the key on/off on/off on/off on/off any number of times, as always, but mostly out of frustration. But this time I heard a chime. The same chime that pairs the key fob to the car. Car then started right up and has been no problem since.

I don't know that anything was fixed, but I have a few thousand miles more on it now, and so far, no issues what so ever. My car had been acting up terribly, I spent a ton of effort and time troubleshooting and nothing helped. The dash would die mid drive and the voltage would drop down to 9V, then come back to 12.2 and stay there. So the battery never died and the headlights would run the entire way home. Then the car would not start, no matter what.

For some reason the pairing of the key, or what ever I did, maybe it paired the dash and ECU? fixed something. But the secret to success 'this time' seemed to require enough voltage to work. The battery alone did not do it.

May 30, 2025 | 08:41 AM

#24

Peter_of_Australia

Veteran Member

Joined: Aug 2022

Posts: 2,101

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From: NSW, Australia

If I should have a wild guess of what happened there:
The ignition switch is - after all - still a switch. Switches tend to see corrosion on the contacts.
If lucky, simple operation of that switch may remove the corrosion of those contacts.
Thus, your on-off-on-off-on-off could have cleaned the contact surfaces and thus fixed the problem...