This started as an intermittent failure to crank. I rebuilt the WY to relay to solenoid circuit using a dedicated connector.


A wire marked as PB was marked by the harness vendor as "starter control".
In the original install, I connected it at the small post on the solenoid. It worked fine for a decade or so.


I "simplified" it in the rebuild. I just spliced the PB (pink/black) to the RW, Jaguar wire (red white) and connected the pair to the small post on the solenoid.


Big issue: Turning the ignition switch and it cranks and fires at the run position. Not good as the starter howls, still cranking and the engine running.


So, the PB is an ignition wire??


I sought to separate the crank from the run and install toggle or button to crank apart from the switch run position. Thusly, turn the ignition to run. Toggle or push crank and all is well. No luck. need the PB wire. then cranks and runs as long as power is applied to the solenoid. Release that and engine dies.


So, later, I will seek to connect the PB to another source of ignition on 12v.


Dreaded thought: Issue in the PCM!!!


Or.....


Help!!!


Carl

 

The saga continues.


The relay connections reviewed and remade. The engine cranks healthily in what I believe is the correct ignition key position.


With the mysterious GM pink/black wire disconnected, cranks is good, but no start.


Jump the PB wire to battery +- and the engine cranks and runs just fine. But, the key off position does not stop the engine, it continues to run. Logical, though.


Very odd and perplexing issue remains as a part of the big picture. The ignition + powered fuse block is dark. No volts there. Tested with test lamp.


Mission for later. Recheck wires from cabin to engine bay for a supply of ignition on only volts.


The electrickery continues!!


Car still up on trolley jack and stands. Easier to work on at waist height!!!


Carl

 

Have you check neutral safety switch? It works by providing a ground for the starter relay. No ground from the neutral safety switch no crank or starter engagement. It can be tricky to diag because a test lite would show the relay as energized... but a ground through the safety switch would be necessary to complete the circuit.


Pink and black is ususally +12V ignition wire to the distributor coil on GM cars and probably on LT1 as well.


My LT1 convert interfaced with the Jag in a very simple way. Ground obviously, Crank signal picked up off starter relay, constant 12v from the battery and switch 12v from the white wire in the harness behind the glove box.

 

Yup!


I am getting there. I think I messed things up!!!


PB is indeed ignition!! I mixed it with purple. Hot in start and run. Gained by research in my volumns of Jag material.


Yup, the white wire in the passenger cavity.


I lost the black from relay to neutral start. I'll look again. But, now that leg of the relay is merely grounded. So, I can crank the engine just fine. But, caveat, in any gear lever location. to me not a big thing. Reflex has been deeply imbedded to bang the shifter into P before anything else. Going back to neutral in a stick shift.


Big laugh item on last night's news. Car jacker took a car at gun point. Oops, had to flee sans car. Could not drive a stick car!!!!!!


Car
Carl

 

Status as of 2-20-2015!!


Off the jack stands and into the garage.


Fixed, sorta. it took a work around. Sought a "hot with key on" wire to power up the ignition. Wanted one in the engine bay to avoid opening panels in the cabin.


Trusty S57 Jaguar schematic publication ID'd green at the horn relay! My horn relay is disconnected and hanging on a wall for some past reason???


Spliced in ignition and for good measure the supply to the TC lockout and brake lights.


Good part:


1. Engine cranks at proper key position, when released, it continues to run. New starter more responsive and quieter!!


Not so good:


1. Fans come on almost immediately sans command from temperature sensor???
2. Tach doesn't count RPM's or anything else???
3. Check engine light blinks on and off?


I think I displaced the wire to one of the two O2 sensors. Fishing in the guts called for.


But, for now, clean up huge mess in garage. errands to do. Other deferred work to do, as yard!!!


On balance,. not too bad.


Carl








Remade cranking relay and harness works a charm

 

I'm glad you got at least this far, Carl,
I always find it easier to stop at a point of some small success.
(';')

 

GM ECM and PCM's do this when there is a serious ECM/PCM fault
check grounds and fuses to start.

Not good.


This is a major fault too. It usually suggests a major misfire is detected by the ECM/PCM and is considered dangerous because unburnt fuel could overheat the catalytic converter.

 

Thanks.


Breather in progress.
the engine runs smoothly. So, probably not a major misfire that will eat a cat!!
Been there, done that.


I think I messed up a connector of one O2 sensor. PCM gets no signal from an O2, blinks!!!


Fans?


Tach. Fired from Coil. Looking and thinking to do. Reroute of ignition feed probable cause.


Carl

 

Yes and no's!!


1. the purple wire identified by my infamous harness vendor does nothing. unneeded!!


2. My new sorce for ignition + ijn start and run provides ignition . Car runs.


3. My rewired starter relay works almost as intended. Blank ground wire jumped to ground. Lost original black to neutral start switch!! Will crank in any gear position. OK at least for now.


4. New starter works really nicely. Cranks just as fast as the old, but seemingly quieter? My ear issues may be in play!!!


5. Ignition switch may now be an issue. At times, dash warning lights come on as intended and engine starts and tach works. Fans quiet. But, might stall and next crank not work at all or with issues. Switch with power at ties just doesn't feel right.
6. Bench test of old starter. Mostly for kicks, inconclusive.


7. Five faults at once or in some combination.
a. Bad firewall to solenoid cable. Obvious
b. Poor relay to solenoid connection at solenoid. quite probable.
c. Extraneous purple wire at solenoid. inconclusive.
d. Failing ignition switch. possible
e. As mentioned, failing GM PCM. possible, and I do have a supposedly good spare. Lump adjusted, probably not!!


The thrash continues with other tasks being deferred.


PS. No luck with electronic ignition for the B&S powered lawn vacuum.


O'wise, life is good.


Carl

 

Might be OK, sorta, but different!!!


Ignition switch might be OK. Only operating sequence altered.


1. Turn with key CW all the way to the right. Starter cranks and engine fires.
2. Release one notch CCW. Engine runs, tach works, radio on, switiches work. Volt meter works. Dash alive.
3. Release another notch CCW, engine continues to run, dash dark.
4. Release another notch CCW. nothing.


So, I may be in business, albeit just a tad "different"!!!


Carl

 

No luck or is it merely bad luck. Is bad luck worse than no luck at all???


latest diagnosis: Failed ignition switch!


Research in progress as to:


1. How to remove the errant switch? Help!!!
2. source of new or good used replacement switch.


Carl

 

I can post these two old docs that I used to remove the key in a series II. I have no idea what your situation looks like. good luck













Patrick Cherry writes:


My 'main' set of keys to my 1982 California-spec XJ6 was stolen last year. Wife has been using the 'spare' set of keys. Now the 'spare' key is missing in action. Dealer says he 'cannot even get key blanks for something that old' much less cut a key with only the vin. The local locksmith says he can cut a new key if I can bring him the cylinder (or the complete car...but if I could drive the car, I wouldn't be posting this, would I???). Can someone please advise me how to remove the ignition switch assembly? I have dropped the bezel and disconnected the electrics. There are two peened pins where the steering lock part of the ignition switch enters the steering column; do I have to drill those out? Do I have alternatives? TIA, Patrick Cherry


From Alan Howard:


It is quite easy to remove the steering lock. The 2 peened head screws are in fact bolts that had a very narrow machined taper below the head so that when tightening the heads shear off too prevent theft. To undo these screws just use a small chisel and hammer and they will come undone easily, sometimes they are loose already. You may find that with the 2 bolts removed you will not have enough room to pull the lock assembly all the way out. You will have to lower the steering column a small amount. To lower the column look up underneath and you will see 2 bolts that hold the column in place, loosen these bolts as much as possible but do not remove them because there are all sorts of spacers and rubber bushes there to fall out. With these 2 bolts loosened you will just have enough room to withdraw the lock. With the lock out you will see a small Pillips head screw that holds the actual ignition switch onto the back of the lock, remove this and then pull out the switch. Inside the recess where the switch was you will see a paper sticker, the key code is written on this sticker. take this to a locksmith and they will easily and cheaply be able to cut a new key.

 

I guess I should relate my experience. everything he said was spot on, even the screws being not too tight. the slotless screw that comes in from the bottom was cake. the screw that comes in from the back was a bitch. did it by brail. I suggest you use a mirror to get a good look at the layout while you try to tap out the screw. I used a short sharp pointed piece and tapped around the edge of the head.

 

All right !!!


Getting the picture !!!


1. Upwards screws to drop the bezel. Slotted, Phillips, Pozi or?


2. One way screws. Chop or grind or .... From behind or in front ??


3. I am searching a market for a NOS or good used unit. Not sure if it is the electric component or the mechanical part. Electric is the prime suspect.


Thanks


Carl

 

Found used but good switch on Ebay. Weird issues here. But, son past master, sorta of Ebay bought it!! One part on the way.


Now, how to get old out remains an issue!!


Carl
.

 

New to me switch here. Oh, oh, seems slightly different than the picture I have of one from an SII car. But, it is in the number of wires. the plug/connector seems to be missing a bullet. and there are two "extra" pig tails. I'll study the circuitry and either use as is or splice to accommodate the three extras. I am good at solder and shrink tube technique!!


The electric portion is two ceramic circular pieces. One with wires on one side and copper contacts on the inner. the other has a copper contact and seem to be the rotor y portion that is twisted by the key.


They seem to be fastened to the lock portion via not one but two screws. Slot or Pozi, I don't know. Yet! I have a couple of sets of jewelers drivers that ought work out. Small little fasteners.


I will try it in situ not disturbing the lock portion secured by the break of fasteners. but, failing that, I'll knock them out one way or another.


As space is very tight, I'll look and see if removing he dash cap increases working space.


Wild card: I see an unconnected connector adjacent to the switch. I have the scupper panel down as well as the lower part of the clamshell at the sterring column to dash joinment.


A couple of errands to do after chores, than get at it.


Chores in progress.


Carl

 

Late status:


1. The switch from my car is out, on the bench and disassembled.
2. The Ebay "switch" is the same. But, not complete. No pot metal housing. so,"tested" was not quite correct. Partly tested, mebbe.
3. I WIN ONE. I found that a wire nut in my junk tray just fit the taper on the break away screw. I drilled a hole for a lever. thusly with that, I could acess that back screw, twist and push. it came out. When assembly time comes, I may use the same screws and the wire nut "socket to set them. Or, tiny Allens!


4. I took my switch apart. it is exactly like the sorta switch from EBAY. Corrosion and goo in the contacts part. I cleaned them with contact cleaner. I think I have some dielectric to lube them with on reassembly, if I use this switch. Some say no, and some yes??


5. Continuity from connector to switch back tests good. Continuity from sitch bak to contact not yet done.

 

Forum and or IE!11 shut me down mid post.


6. Open connector seems to be the key in door open alarm. It is now connected. if it drives me nuts as it may have a PO, I'll open it. but, tape it off.

7. Now, I can hot wire the car ands check the circuits to the switch.


8. It is bench work to assemble and test the switch. Worn out mechanical part?


9. I did not see the paper slip with a key code?


Rain today. Car in garage, but space limited.


Carl

 

More!!!


1. There is a key code in the housing. I recorded it n my odd notes book!


2. The drive tang in my switch is partly busted. It is a shaft with a slot down the nose. One half busted off and a tiny piece was loose in the switch. although, the key still seems to turn the rotary part of the electrics, it is less precise.


3. So, imprecise contacts and dirty contacts = odd behavior?


4. Complete used assembly on the way, via trusty David Boger. Lesson, should've gone there in the first place!!!


5. Check in car circuits at the connector plug.


6. More attention to badly neglected yard chores. Did clean up porch planters. dead ones out and some fresh ones in.


The thrash continues. I oughta be able to "hot wire and start the car in the cabin???

 

Hot wire crank and run effort in the cabin failed. the big brown wire is hot. Good.


Jumping it via connector post to other posts got nothing.


Result, inconclusive.


Messing with old switch/s. The housing has three indentations. But, only one tiny ball in the place. Seems as three are needed. This to establish the three positions. On. accessory, run and then crank. So, with one, only crank s stabile.


Does the damaged tang plus missing tow ***** mean the posaionsa are not precisae enough ? Maybe.


So, while awaiting David's complete set, I'll monlkey with my stuff and see if I can get enough to crank, run and get the car back enough out of the shop to mess with other stuff. B&S small engine vacuum.


HF generator to power weed whacker Lots to whack. Got some whacked yesterday.
Lots more to go. Or try the gas powered one again. Cranky, but good on the tall stuff.


Carl