Status of the estate:


1. got out my 100 foot extension cord and whacked some more peripheral high weeds. One more session and the front will be ready for the mower. Elinor would have done, long ago!


2. Ignition switch via David Boger came in. Nice unit. clean, tight and precise. Much better than mine!!! Test fitted the short Allen screws I got from Ace. perfect. should make the install better. OH,oh, easier for a thief!!!


Plugged it in. Nice crank. The Lt1 fired right up. Much more precise feel to the switch. Run seems almost OK. Check engine off and on, then stayed off. great sign. OP not showing?? Tach alive. Voltmeter alive.


So, in AM. fire it up, back it into sun light. finish the switch install Fix the busted finisher under the column. Start check on missing data on dash.


Yahoo!!!


Carl

 

Congratulations, Carl!!
It's about time you had some success!!
By the way, my Weedeater IS one of my most Favorite machines.
(';')

 

David's switch came in yesterday. So much better. Clean. positions far more precise.


Plugged it in. connected battery. Twist, engine cranked and fired just right. In run,
most things OK. Especialy the "check engine". On then off then back, til it settled down.


Tach doing it's thing.


OP not registering, and possibly some of the warning lights.


But, engine runs in the accessory position>


So, bit more sleuthing. but, a major obstacle overcome with a "good" switch.


Fuses, a possible 1
disconnect at OP sensor ?
.
Going to ACE and get a spare key cut, before I install the switch correctly.


More whacking on my "meadow". I could borrow "Billy" and "Rosebud", my son and his SO's goats. They'd fix that forthwith. But all else as well!!!


Carl
OP not

 

David's switch is here. Nice clean tight and complete with a key. Off to ACE for a duplicate key. Easier to check operation with switch in hand. No go there.


Off to town locksmith. Quick ID and new key cut. An Ilco blank. Locksmith thought my idea of bringing switch was smart. A bit of deburr and a shot of cleaner and it is smooooth.


The break off bolts gave me a tussle. As well as the Allen heads I got at ACE. But, at last, one of each in place.


Bezel secured with Allens in lieu of the shiny slot heads. so much more positive. I have slot heads!!


Harnesses given a shot of contact cleaner. Cranks fine.


New spectre! Now firing is inconsistent. Blowing a lot of black out the pipes. But, when fires revs nicely. Did I mess up the PCM or something else?


although engine cranks nicely, a lot of tries may have volts down. Starter gets the volts at the expense of the injectors and ignition? Battery will get a test and probale charge up later.


As long as the scuttle is down, I am going to check the fuses there for continuity.


Oh, as a side light I gave the shoe on the column that transfers ground a few shots and wiggled the shaft. I might restore the horn function???


Door locks are misbehaving as well???


I know more about switch removal and their innards than I want.


Carl

 

PS:


Electrickery???


Seems that way1


if it is the PCM, I do have a spare. but, whether it is lump adjusted, I doubt it.


Adjaut or just use it?


If it has VATS, I have a work around for that.


carl

 

3-24-2015.


Volts mean a lot. I checked them Saturday and found the battery was at 50% and just over 12v. weak but would crank and the engine fire at times?,


Shumacher smart charge session brought it to a nice 100% and a bit over 13 v.


After a couple of errands in the trusty Jeep and other chores, I tried it. Vigorous crank and immediate fire. Dash lights as should be. tach swings well. Just a minor anomaly. Engine runs in the accessory position!!! No dash lights or tach, though?


A diode issue?


Idle not all that smooth. but, "check engine" light works properly. Just might need a drive and a few cycles to allow the PCM to adjust.


On a roll, Set the Jeep clock to PDT and the vehicle information panel to proper date and time.


Off topic: My Jeep went in for a recall fix. It got two!! A big a...'d trailer hitch and an added detent on the shift lever. Very well treated at the local dealer. an amazing operation. They even washed it and vacuumed it. Plus a safety check. I am impressed. Courteous folks as well.


Carl

 

April 30, status of the estate.


I find the new Malaysian starter bit the dust. Climbed under a few days ago and jumped 12v to solenoid and direct to the starter. Sparks. but no crank. Battery checked at 13 v, so lots a v's available. Yuk,


For the fun of it, I removed the battery from the car to a rare spot on my bench.


Hooked up to the old starter. wowee, dead short. Minor burns on two fingers. Stopped the cooking of my hide with the garden hose. Applied some Neosporin to east the hurt and for antibiotics. After a time, they tamed down. Fine now.


Well, down and under again. Know precisely what to take under. Smallish drain pan to contain stuff. I disconnected the electrics top side. Much easier!


3/8' flex rachet, medium extension. wobble socket and deep sockets, each 9/16". Flash lite for good measure.


Prep, in and outta there well within 30 minutes.


Bench tested Malasyian starter. Thunk, no crank, but not a dead short either???


Shopping completed. Most local sources at 166.00 or so. #0.00 core charge and sales tax, of course, nigh on to 10 % in some cities.


On line, about the same. No sales tax however, but shipping costs, yes.


Chose Remanufactured AC Delco. OEM stuff. !55.00 less 30.00 core when returned.
ETA 5-7 via FEDEX.


I packed up the Malaysian u nit to return for warranty. That will get me about 70. bucks aback after ship costs.


Side bar: Kid, well circa 50 or so now, but was a kid when we came and I still see them as kids!! Tossing 8HP B&S horizontal engine from their tiller. Supposedly with fueling issues. Just what I need, another project. but, I have become so intimately qcquainted with one lungers that I can open the ignition side on fifteen minutes or less. Carbs are even easier.


Tools all over the place and boxes open


Carl


ne

 

Carl, I DO hope you can get that starter problem resolved so you can actually Drive your Jaguar soon!! These days you Never know where parts come from, even new parts.

I'm learning how frustrating it is to find one thing after another that keeps the car off the road!
(';')

 

LnrB:


Thanks.


Well, I 'saved" a few bucks on the starter. New and Malaysian built. About 77 bucks & a little shipping, It looked good. And worked good, "for while'. Gotta say, though it went through a lot of cycles as I chased the ignition issue.


Local prices for remanufactured units around 170 + tax.


So, back to Rockauto. 124 & 30.00 core charge and 11.oo for shipping via FEDEX.
Remanufactured ACDELCO. OEM. Made in the USA. But, where it was rebuilt, as you say who knows. As it is coming from NJ, just maybe that eliminates some Asian place. But, I have a lot of Asian made stuff that works just fine.


Yeah, I sure would like to get back on the road. And aside from a couple of minor things, it has been ultra dependable since the lumping way back when.


Carl

 

David Boger's switch installed and works better than the old one ever did.


Durn, Malaysian starter went bust. Flunked under the car jump tests flunked bench tests. It is of to Rock Auto for warranty refund. Replacent no available. Hmmm.


Chose Rock Auto again? this time elected rebuilt ACDelco OEM unit. It is OTW via FEDEX. This AM tracked to a town in Utah. WC ETA 5-7-2015


The thrash goes on.


I can pull one in less than 30, prep time included. I know exactly what tools to take down and under.


Carl


Carl

 

Not so good:


RockAuto credited my account on warranty on the Pure energy starter that failed. But, store credit, not money to my debit card!!! Had I known....


Better:


FEDEX showed up yesterday with a rebuilt OEM ACDELCO unit. Built in Mexico??? I hope. A tad longer and a heavier than the two prior ones that failed. Asian sourced!!


This one USA, but redone in Mexico. More like the tried and true units of the past.


So, the connections are a tad different. It is a bit longer.


Will it fit w/o dropping the down pipe? Can I hold it in place and start the two bolts? Make the electrics before and feed up tot he engine bay? Or do ita bove forst and then bolts and two electrics underneath.


Sore shoulders, so I'll hold off a tad.


Carl