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Yes. I can read them with the Launch CRP 123 Professional I recently bought and can do so live at different rpms. It monitors 88 engine functions live.
Yes. I can read them with the Launch CRP 123 Professional I recently bought and can do so live at different rpms. It monitors 88 engine functions live.
I have bought the car two months ago. It runs not as it should.
Down you can see the readings from the ECU.
There are logged fault codes P0010, P0191 and P1647.
Also, the Coolant temperature reading is "-". Is this the reason for the status "Open loop due to insufficient temperature" ?
The temperature gauge shows normal. Is there a separate sensor for the ECU?
I would like to change only one sensor at a time in order to clear the status.
What is the suggestion to do at the beginning?
2v6, from what you have reported, I see 3 issues with the vehicle at the moment.
P0010 - Bank 1 VVT solenoid not responding - VVT solenoid being held in position relating to 450 mA - this can be caused by either a bad VVT solenoid or bad wiring between the solenoid and the ECU. The easiest way I can think of to differentiate between the two is to disconnect the VVT solenoid plug, then you are going to have to make some sort of rig to jumper 1 side and then use your multimeter (measuring current) to see if the ECU is outputting 450ish mA. If yes, then your VVT solenoid is bad. If you are getting 0 mA, then I would suspect wiring.
P0191 - Fuel system pressure not being sent to ECU - Pressure being assumed to be 55 psig - most likely your fuel pressure sensor is bad and needs a new one. Granted, could be a wiring issue. If replacing the sensor does not correct the issue, a hand over hand of the wiring is needed. Granted, a question to ponder, when was the fuel filter last replaced. It is possible that if the fuel filter has not been replaced recently, that can be restricting the fuel flow, resulting in a low fuel pressure resulting in poor performance especially up in the RPMs. I would probably do the fuel filter if you don't know when the last time it was done as I have seen more issues with a clogged fuel filter than with a bad fuel pressure sensor.
P1647 - Bank 2 upstream O2 sensor is not heating/failed - ECU is sensing that the heater for the O2 sensor is not pulling the correct current to keep it heated above the exhaust temp. Normally this is a sign that the O2 sensor has failed. This O2 sensor would be the easier of the 2 to get to. It is located under the air box. I would recommend replacing the O2 sensor and seeing what you have then. I do not suspect a bad fuse as that would take out 2 sensors (both sensors for Bank 2).
Your questions about the ECU operation and it not being in closed loop is because of the O2 sensor, not the engine temp. You fix the issue with the O2 sensor, that will go away.
With all that I have said above, I am suspecting 1 of 2 things is going on at the moment. Either the person before you didn't know how to take care of a car and they let a bunch of problems build up because "well the car is still running, so, why deal with them?" or they recently had a small animal get into the engine bay and it chewed on some wiring, resulting in these 3 issues. I would be looking at the wiring harness right near the IMT valves (those black circles on the left side of the intake as you are standing in front of the car, looking into the engine bay). If you have a damaged wiring harness, it will be right there. A visual of the wiring harness is free and will atleast rule out a possibility and help steer where you are going. If you do find damaged wiring, let me know. There is a right and wrong way to repair wiring. Sure, you can use some basic heat shrink and solder the wires back together and it will work for a time. But, you will find after a year or so, you will start having issues again. if you do have to repair some wiring, let me know and I will tell you what you need to do so you don't have more issues in the future. I have learned the hard way of the right and wrong ways for wiring repair under the hood.
That looks like the fuel temperature sensor to me. Fuel pressure sensor has 3 wires and a vacuum hose connection to the intake manifold. You should find it on the opposite end of the fuel rail from the inlet and from that temperature sensor.
Funny that the ECU reports P0191 but your screen shot clearly shows the ECU is reading and reporting fuel pressure. 321 kPa is only 46 PSI, it is possible the P0191 error means the fuel pressure sensor never reports a satisfactory pressure even with the pump at 100% duty cycle. I would definitely change the fuel filter to see if you can get that pressure to increase to about 55 PSI / 380 kPa.
2v6, like was said, that is the fuel temp sensor. The fuel pressure sensor will have a black wire with a green stripe, a red wire with a green stripe, and an orange wire with a yellow stripe coming off of that same tube (possibly at the other end as was stated earlier).
2v6, as I recall (been a number of years since I did it), you need to remove the bracket that the airbox rests on. That will open up a space. You also are reaching in from the sides and working that way, you are not going straight down on the sensor. If you look in your top picture, there is an opening in the bottom right corner that you can stick your hand in. I want to say also that the two accordian tubes just press together to the horns that are on the other side of the hood support. So, some twisting side to side wil get those to come off.
As for the IMT valves, looking at the bottom one, it looks like it has a crack just beyond the connector. Maybe it is just how the shadows are in the picture. Also looks like those connectors have seen better days. The VVT solenoids are on the other end of the engine from what you show in the bottom picture. The IMT valves and the VVT valves are completely different monsters. The bottom picture shows the IMT valves.
2v6, can you use that O2 sensor. Sure, it will screw in, but from the stories that I have heard here, you are much more likely to introduce another problem than to fix something. Spend the extra few dollars and get one with the plug already attached. It will save you a lot of heart aches.
2v6, you can use a wrench, but it is going to be hit and miss if that is going to work. i want to say it was something around a 3/4"wrench. If you can, spend the $12 and get yourself a good O2 sensor removal tool. if it looks like a complete socket, just with a window cut in the side, skip that one. You want the one that looks like the closed end box wrench with a 1/2" drive square added to the side. Then there is a split in the closed end wrench for the wiring. That works much better than the sockket.
Yes, that is the kind you want. Add your 1/2" breaker bar and it wil get out just about anything that you have. They a re fairly cheap and will save you a lot of time fighting the car.
