the expansion tank cracked and the overflow tube blew of the tank while driving on the highway, the car overheated and stalled out. After it cooled I restarted and drove it the rest of the way home (3 miles). the engine light is still on even after the car has cooled off. Has anyone expierienced this problem and should I be worried about the light? Or will it reset itself?

 

Platinum, I would see what the code is that is causing the CEL. From there we can get a better idea of whether something was hurt or not. Could be something that happened during the overheat, could be a coil pack that failed due to high heat, could be excessive hydrocarbons due to ring damage. Hard to say until the code is read.

On a side note, if you start the car, do a 5 minute drive (min) and then turn it off, on the 6th start with no codes being thrown by the computer, the CEL should turn itself off. So, if it has been more than 5 starts and the CEL is still lit, all that much more important.

 

My mom overheated her car (coolant leak) and shut down on her. Her light remained on until cleared by a reader, but to be fair, we didn't wait around to see if it would go off, even after fixing the leak and refilling... then she discovered some leaking valve cover seals, and then a coil pack went bad from the oil leak, all related to her overheating incident. Lets hope you are more fortunate.

 

I lost the idler puller and tensioner on the water pump drivebelt... couldn't pull off straightaway but had to drive a distance with the engine overheating until I could pull off. Had the car towed... well lifted on the back of a truck.. to my mechanic new pulley.. right as rain.

The X-type engine like many modern engines can have foibles... mostly sensor related... on the whole however it is a pretty solid lump and reliable... get the codes cleared and see what happens... if the code comes back it still doesn't necessarily mean a fault as such... it could still be a sensor damaged thru overheating... worry only if the code doesn't clear and the problem doesn't appear to be a peripheral item.

Mike

 

Get those codes and see what it's telling you. Any engine stalling out because of heat could cause a pretty nasty situation.

 

ok so I replaced the expansion tank and cycled the ignition on/off 6 times and the code cleared....but I took it for a test drive aqnd the engine light came back on, so I took the car to autozone and had them read the codes and the results are:

1. P0302: CYLINDER 2 MISFIRE
2. PO304 CYLINDER 4 MISFIRE
3. P1316 MANUFACTURER CONTROL IGNITION SYSTEM OR MISFIRE
4. PO118 ENGINE COOLANT TEMP CIRCUIT HIGH INPUT
5. P1111 MANUFACTURERS CONTROL FUEL AIR METERING
6. P1796 MANUFACTURERS CONTROL TRANSMISSION

When I was driving back home the engine light started to flash intermittent with the digital display stating cruise control. Can anyone offer any advice?

 

if the car got really hot there is a knock senor in the center of the engine , the wires are known to melt to the head throwing all sorts of codes. or like thermo said its the coils that went bad due to the heat. try and switch the coils from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1 and do the same for cylinder 4 and then recheck codes to see what happens.

 

hope its not the heads being warped?? those head bolts cant take heat to good and its known to stretch even more then they can causing the head to warp.

 

Hi,

A couple of things - You cannot use a generic P-code chart for any Jaguar P1xxx codes. These are manufacturer (Jaguar) specific. All P0xxx codes are standard so they are accurate.

P1111 is not a fault code, but a check code Jaguar uses.
P1316 is an excessive emissions code and related to the P0302/04 codes (actually dependent upon).
P1796 is a CAN circuit open between the TCM and ECM.

When these codes illuminate (p0302/04/1316), the drive cycle is rather complex. Here it is, but it sounds like you've already exercised some of the drive cycle by accident, so I'm not going to be much help telling you how to unravel it from where you are.


DTC P1314 (bank 2) will be flagged. When the fault is no longer present the CHECK ENGINE MIL will be activated.

The misfire itself (p0302/04) has several possibilities, all related to cylinders 2/4. Could be plugs, fuel injectors, wiring to each back to the ECM. Was the misfire problem coincidental with the overheating? I'm almost thinking this is a separate and independent problem as there is not that much relationship...maybe you did a lot of damage based on how long you drove it overheated. I'd check compression of 2/4 too.