please help
#1
08-25-2013, 05:09 PM
#2
08-25-2013, 07:35 PM
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bharvey, well, from my experience, the only way that you are going to get that pigtail is to buy the whole engine harness. As I am sure you are thinking right about now, that is not going to be cheap. Now, with that being said, you might be able to get off a little cheaper by seeing what a wrecking yard might have. But, again, they are going to want you to buy the whole engine harness, not just the last 3 feet of some end of the harness.
You do have another option. What you would end up doing is finding where someone cut the wires and then adding new pieces of wire to those wires to extend them to reach the switch (with a little extra for any flex in things). From there, you can use some connectors like you find at Lowes/Home Depot/NAPA/etc and then use these connectors to go on to the terminals of the reverse switch. With all this being said, I would recommend that you find some stuff called "Raychem WCSF-070". This is heat shrink on steroids. You cut a piece long enough to cover where you join the wires together (preferably by soldering, laying the two wires side by side and then letting the solder join them together) plus an extra 2 inches (1 inch for each side of the solder joint). Then you can solder the wires together and then shrink the tubing over the solder joint. You will know you have applied enough heat to this shrink tubing because there is an orange glue on the inside that will form a small donut just outside the heat shrink. When you see this stuff, you will understand why I recommend it. If you are worried about it surviving the under hood conditions, don't. I use it at work to survive a nuclear reactor meltdown. Good stuff. I would recommend if you can, putting some on the other end if possible to help keep the water from wicking back up the wire, leading to problems 10 years into the future. But, that is me, I am into overkill when it comes to wiring.
You do have another option. What you would end up doing is finding where someone cut the wires and then adding new pieces of wire to those wires to extend them to reach the switch (with a little extra for any flex in things). From there, you can use some connectors like you find at Lowes/Home Depot/NAPA/etc and then use these connectors to go on to the terminals of the reverse switch. With all this being said, I would recommend that you find some stuff called "Raychem WCSF-070". This is heat shrink on steroids. You cut a piece long enough to cover where you join the wires together (preferably by soldering, laying the two wires side by side and then letting the solder join them together) plus an extra 2 inches (1 inch for each side of the solder joint). Then you can solder the wires together and then shrink the tubing over the solder joint. You will know you have applied enough heat to this shrink tubing because there is an orange glue on the inside that will form a small donut just outside the heat shrink. When you see this stuff, you will understand why I recommend it. If you are worried about it surviving the under hood conditions, don't. I use it at work to survive a nuclear reactor meltdown. Good stuff. I would recommend if you can, putting some on the other end if possible to help keep the water from wicking back up the wire, leading to problems 10 years into the future. But, that is me, I am into overkill when it comes to wiring.