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Power supply change???

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Old 05-12-2019, 05:14 AM
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Default Power supply change???

Just asking.

My 2010 X Type 2.1 V6 has, as I believe they all have, the windows and cig lighter ONLY operational when in Ignition Swuitch #2, as apposed to our S Type, X300, etc that have them powered up on Ign #1.

Reading the wiring, and only having one eye now, I really am losing the plot.

Is there a SIMPLE way to change these, mainly the cig lighter, to #1 active. A simple new wire to said Cig lighter from some #1 active source would work, maybe. Both would be better, as spouse is forever wanting to move her window after we stop somewhere, then move it again a few seconds later, and I reckon Ign ON constantly is not good for anything.

Clearly a NEW spouse might be easier, maybe not cheaper.

Yes, I have been stooging around looking for the answer, but not found yet.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:20 AM
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Grant, looking, there is no simple way to do what you are after by just moving a single wire. The reason why I say this is that if you simply add a wire to add a second power source, you are going to power everything in the car. So, you need something that will only power limited things. So, to accomplish this, I think you are going to need to add what is called a "double pole, double throw switch" (normally referred to as a DPDT switch). This will have 6 terminals on the back of the switch. Some may refer to it as an ON-OFF-ON switch.

You can do some prep work on the switch. You can start with getting an 8 foot piece of 18 gauge wire and attaching it to both terminals on one side of the switch. This will ultimately be your battery power source for when the car is off. Next, take 2 fuses (current rating of the fuses do not matter) and you are going to purposely blow the fuse by touching the two terminals across the battery (may need to add some extension wires). We need the two posts to be electrically isolated from each other. From here, on each fuse, you are going to cut a small window into the side of the fuse over each terminal. The smaller the window, the better, but will need to be big enough for you to solder a wire there too. This wire will need to be about 6 feet long (long enough to go from the fuse box to where you are mounting the switch). You will need to do this 4 times total (a wire to each window on the fuses). At this point, you will need to figure out which 2 wires now have power supplied to them when the car is in the RUN position. These two wires will get attached to the switch at the opposite side that you connected the battery source wire. This will leave the center 2 posts without wires on them. You will need to get 2 fuse holders (can be found at any auto parts store) with a 10 amp fuse in each. You are going to attach a fuse holder to each terminal and then the free wire on each fuse holder will get matched up to the respective wire from the fuse (ie, the wire on the left terminal should have the other wire to this fuse attached to the fuse holder on the left terminal and so on).

From here, you are going to remove fuses F4o and F52. You will replace them with the 2 fuses that have the wires coming off of them (making sure to orientate the new fuses correctly such that the outer terminals on the switch are on the power side of the fuse in the fuse box.

The final step is mounting the switch where you want it.

What this will allow you to do is in the one ON position, the car will act like it does right now. You flip the switch to the other ON position, this will supply power to the cigar lighter and the windows with the car in the OFF position and only power those 2 things up. An option that you may want to consider is the type of switch that you use. The DPDT switch is a common switch to find. Most auto parts stores will have them on the shelf. You just need to make sure that the one you buy can handle 10 amps. To simplify things, you may want to get a "single throw, double pole (SPDT) that has the 6 terminals. these are commonly called an ON-ON switch. This simplifies things in that you always have power to the circuits in question, where the DPDT switch can possibly be positioned where the circuits will not have power.

If you need me to make a drawing, let me know. That may make more sense than trying to visualize what I am writing.
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:28 AM
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OH, the one down side to this is if you leave the switch in the battery ON position, you can possibly drain the battery if you leave something charging using the cigar lighter. The other rare thing could be that if someone wanted to break into your car, you are making it slightly easier in that they would only need to somehow press a window switch and the windows would move (not that it is likely, but the possibility is there).

thought I would give you that info as it is potentially reasons as why not to do this mod.
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 06:50 PM
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A simpler way would be to isolate the lighter and window circuits from everything else, and run a tap to power. They will always be hot, but A), most cars have the cigarette lighters always hot anyhow, and B) the only time the windows would use power would be when they are being raised and lowered.
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 08:48 PM
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you will probably need to install 1 or 2 diodes to feed power windows and cigarette lighter.
Start with electrical diagram. My old computer died and ALLDATA doesn't work with new one,
I cannot look.
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 09:22 PM
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Wtf, troll (car5), and just why would he need to have current running in only one direction with adding a power wire (& a ground)? Another useless, idiotic post.
 
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Old 05-13-2019, 03:07 AM
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Thanks guys.

I will leave the thing as is, and retrain the spouse HAHA, but at 68, probably not going to happen.

It was just a thought, and old age has one wondering WHY, sometimes.

The older cars were so simple, were they not??. 2 fuses for the whole car, and NOT a damn control module in sight.
 
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