Dear friends,

ich had to change the rear break lines of my Jaguar X-type model year 2005 2.0 Diesel. Now I have the problem that there is air in die ABS. A common problem. I my case it results that after a short drive of 2km the brakes get stiff. Meaning the pressure in the braking lines does not get release - there are two release vales in die ABS unit.

The proper way ist to bleed the ABS module. For Ford cars this is easily done with Mongoose or ELM237 Adapter and forscan software.

However when I start forescan it says: car cannot be identified. This is weather I use my mongosse pro adapter or ELM 237 vers. 1.4. I have now oeder EML237 1.5 with the manual switch maybe with this I can use forscan for the x-type.

Questions 1.

Has anybody already succeeded in getting forescan to identify the jaguar x-type (which ist Ford base!)

Question 2.

If fordscan ist not an option, wihich software to use to doe the ABS module bleed? I have JLR SSD 130. But there is no Option for ABS module bleed function.

Any help how to get the stuck vales in the ABS module to be flushed and bleeded and to get the air out of the ABS module in my Jaguar x-type is welcome.

Thanks

Martin

I already tried the manual procedure described in this thread without success:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...brakes-207998/

 

I have not heard before that bleeding of the ABS module is done via software on the X-Type. Of course, it is always possible that there is something I have not yet heard of...
The issue of having to bleed the ABS module popped up on the forum from time to time, plus, I had to do it as well once before. But the issue of having to bleed the ABS module arises when there is air trapped in the brake lines, and that has the effect of a spongy feeling on the brake pedal - worst case being that there is no brake-function.
I am a bit puzzled as to why your brakes seem to engage, but are then having a problem releasing again, if I understand you correctly.
Are the brakes then totally seized (fully engaged) or why do you know or feel that the brake do not release anymore?

I fixed my problem back then with a lot of persistence in bleeding the brakes on and on and on:
bleeding valves closed, I open the valve, second person presses the brake pedal and keeps it pressed, I close the valve, second person releases the pedal.
Again and again and again.
Order to proceed: that valve, which is furthest away from the ABS module first, and getting closer from there.
Any always make sure that the reservoir does not run on empty.

If that does not help, I know an extreme way, too - I did that on my van once:
I do have a strong electrical vacuum pump, which is used to create a vacuum in a house A/C unit before releasing the refrigerant. I connect that to a fluid trap and suck out the brake fluid via the bleeding valves that way.

Actually, I have a totally different thought, too:
You changed the rear brake lines... I assume you also removed and disassembled the rear brake assembly!? Is there any chance that you did not re-assemble them properly again? Did you forget to install a spring or did you install a spring in the wrong spot? Is it possible that the mechanism does not have the required "spring force" to release the brake pads again, either because a spring is mounted wrongly or not at all or because the mechanism needs a bit of oil inside? (Note: Obviously, no oil must get onto the brake-pads - I am talking about getting a bit of oil into the mechanism from where the lever protrudes...

PS 1:
I just remembered: I actually do have the same problem on the X-Type, which I will continue fixing, when I find time again...
And I am positive that my issue is not air in the system...
I am sure that something is wrong with the mechanism that moves the brake pads.
And my issue is only on one side.
Can you confirm that your issue is also only on one of the wheels?

PS 2: Also worth considering: Did you check that you do not have any dirt blocking the narrow pathways of the bleeder valve? OK, that is unlikely to be the issue for your problem, but if you remove the mechanism next time, just double check that as well... But on that note: "Dirt" could be the problem, if there is more of it inside of "the mechanism"...

PS 3: Note that there is also a seal-kit, which you can buy, to replace all the seals of the brake callipers (= "the mechanism")...

PS 4: I just read the latest question on this forum from Matheww "Brake booster swap possibility" (20-10-2025, 13:47)... Maybe that is also a possible failure source to consider for your issue...

PS 5: If there is anything of I wrote above unclear, I can write it to you in German as well. I grew up around Frankfurt and Cologne...

 

Findings on the root cause and fix for the X-Type brake lock-up issue

After extensive testing I was finally able to identify the problem with absolute certainty.

When the brakes locked up again after a short drive, I slightly loosened the two nuts that hold the master cylinder to the brake booster – and immediately, the brakes released.
That clearly proved that the problem was not in the ABS module or the brake lines, but somewhere between the master cylinder and the brake booster.

At first, I tried the common workaround: adding washers between the brake booster and the master cylinder.
This increases the distance between the booster pushrod and the master-cylinder piston, which reduces residual pressure — and indeed, it made the problem less severe.

However, it did not completely fix it.

Here’s why:
The pushrod inside the brake booster has a dual function:
it not only operates the master-cylinder piston, but also controls the internal vent valve inside the booster.

During normal operation, the pushrod is correctly adjusted from the factory.
However, if the brake pedal is pressed too far during manual bleeding, internal damage or displacement can occur inside the booster.
This can shift the pushrod’s internal position, effectively making it too long — so that the vent valve remains closed even when the brake pedal is released.
That prevents the two vacuum chambers inside the booster from equalizing.

As a result, pressure gradually builds up and the brakes start to apply themselves until the wheels lock after some driving.

The real and permanent fix is to correctly readjust the pushrod inside the brake booster.
It must be adjusted so that:

1. The clearance between the pushrod tip and the master-cylinder piston is within specification (around 0.3–0.5 mm), and
   
2. The vent valve inside the booster is open when the brake pedal is released.
   

Only when both conditions are met will the system equalize pressure properly and allow the brake pressure to fully release after braking.

I will report back once I have adjusted the pushrod to confirm whether this permanently resolves the issue.

For the adjustment, I’ll need a second person to hold the brake pedal down while I set the pushrod length.

If that still doesn’t solve it, I’ll replace the brake booster — but only as a last resort.

 

Like you said, I had a friend push down on the brake peda after removing the master cylinder. There is a knurled portion on the rod that you turn to adjust the length. Trial and error until you find the right length.