Thanks Thermo. I am interested, and I can solder a couple resistors inline with the existing bulb harness'. I'd just like to know that I'm soldering in the optimum value resistor. I guess that's been worked out since you are happy with yours.

You should post a pic of your lights so I can see a Jag without yellow running lights. Were your 285K MCD's expensive? I'll pay for good bulbs that I don't have to mess with after I put 'em in.

Regardless of lighting scenarios, my Jag is running sweet. I got just got new tires and a K&N air filter.

POW!

 

YMMV. The problem is that bit that has been underlined above. Most buyers don't even consider that as they debate the merits of 8k versus 10k. Close is just not good enough as either a result or an excuse.

I found that site while researching HID conversions in preparation to buying one. It was referenced by another forum for a different make.

Halogen systems can be great when properly aimed and when the proper bulbs are selected.

Even improperly aimed factory HID setups(read certain makes that are improperly aimed right off the transporter) can be painful to other drivers. Conversions are even worse. At least the factory systems benefit the drivers.

To make it worse, it seems driving schools no longer teach students about dimming. Nor, do they teach drivers that daytime running lights are not free automatic headlights installed by the factory.

Automotive lighting ought to be about being able to drive quickly at night, not cosmetics and trendiness.

If a driver goes ahead with a HID conversion knowing that the conversion is going to dazzle other drivers, that is just plain selfishness.

 

If you don't have HID and don't want to spend the money or as someone posted not get the proper lighting. Buy Sylvania Silverstar halogen headlight bulbs, these are the brightest halogens you can buy. I replaced the Mercedes Benz bulbs with these bulbs and aimed correctly you get almost just as much light as an HID. When I had them aimed I asked the tech to aim them as high as legally possible and they lasted from 02 to 10 when I sold the car and bought my wonderful X type with HID's which in comparison seem to give you a wider and brighter field of view, as I wrote since I bought the car last June I've used the high beams 2 or 3 times.

 

Thermo, when you go to adjust the headlights do you have to take the front bumper off to get to the adjustments. I'm going to the dealer next week, they said that they would do it for me. But I want to know how there going to do it, being I can't get into there shop for insurance reasons, ya know in case I ever have to do it myself. I was looking and to me that seems to be the only way to get to the adjustment screws. Thanks

 

Patterson, here is what the LEDs look like:


Vai, the adjustment is right on top of the headlight as I recall. It will look like a phillips screw there, but it is all plastic. A few turns will make the headlight go either up and down, or left and right (there are 2 different adjustment knobs).

 

Thermo I can only find two adjustment screws on top of both the HID and the high beam. Which way do you turn them to get them UP clockwise or counterclockwise? Also where are the adjustment screws for the side to side, which I don't need adjusted, but am curious to know, after I read your post I looked for other adjustment screws and as I wrote could only find the two on top. Thanks a bunch.

 

There are certain groups of people in this area that do just what your last sentence says. Little Honda, or Toyota's with blazing HID lights that blind you.

 

It is odd by neither my high beams or I call parking lights are yellow, they are a nice white light. I have no idea what bulbs are in there but no yellow light. But we all see things differently. Yellow to U might be white to me.

 

Bam I've used K&N in all the cars I have had since the late 80's, My son uses them and my daughter uses them. I love them, contrary to what dealers tell you. A couple of years ago I went to Germany to meet my 1/2 brother who lived there at the time. We went to a DTM race and he got pit passes. All the cars had K&N filters. I am sure of this as I asked the crews.

 

Thermo, thanks for the picture. That is how I want my running lights to look. Yours have a nice white color to match the headlights. It looks almost icy, but not too blue. Anyway, I'll look for the 285K MCD 10MM LEDs.

Here's the color of my 2002 factory headlights.



Clearly these hi beams glow yellow when you are not using them. For my sense of style, I'd like them to match the color of the headlights when the hi-beams are just running lights

 

Correction. Actually during the daylight hours they look yellow but at night they are white. Perhaps the perception between day and night vision has something to do with my lights

 

For clarity... The front bumper cover does not have to be removed to get at the inner/outer headlights, hi beam bulbs etc... At most you have to remove the battery. But after that you simply push back the wire arms that hold the black plastic caps onto the back of the headlights. Reveal the electrical harness and bulbs... be careful with the tiny wire arms that hold the bulb assemblies in place b/c they are delicate and you don't want to bend them out of shape. It's kind of a pinch and push motion. .....

The inner and outer headlights are pretty easy to get to, minus having to unplug your battery. If you're talking about the fog lights? different story. Definitely remove your front bumper cover.

 

I wish I would have known that before I had my mechanic pull the bumper cover off to get the headlights outs.

One other headlight question. I was at a stopped at a red light which was on a incline. The car in the opposite lane was flashing his headlights at me, this was around 8PM so it was getting dark. I had my headlights on, my highbeams were not on. I understand there are sensors or a sensor underneath the car that controls the headlights up and down in these types of situations. on a flat road no ones blink at me. My mechanic cleaned this sensor or sensors once a few months ago. Do you think this sensor is not working? Thanks!

 

Adam, odds are, due to the HID headlights, that is what they are complaining about. I get comments all the time about how my HID lights are very bright even when I only have the low beams on. As for the sensors, they are only measuring the relative angles of the suspension, not the angle of the car. So, sitting on a non-flat surface will not cause the headlights to move. Besides, the headlights only adjust themselves upon turning on the headlights. So, unless you had 1 wheel that was sitting differently than the rest, the problem is the other driver, not you.

 

I have HID lamps in my X-type 2002. When I switch the lights on, they come on for a short while and switch off after a while. Wonder if this needs a ballast or igniter..

Also - not sure what colour is applicable to these now, they certainly appear very white more than blue, in the UK.

Can anyone help me figure this out please - any help appreciated..??

 

chumbers, first off, welcome to Jaguar Forums. I think you will like it here. We are a different sort of car group. So, sit back, grab a cup of joe, and do some looking around and learn as much as you can about your vehicle. This will help you in the long run, trust me. But, we do ask 1 thing though. Stop by the New Member section and introduce yourself. This helps us get to know you (how many other clubs want something like that?) and you also get to learn who the various members are here. This will get you aware of who the movers and shakers are around these parts. May even get a friendly surprise or two.

As for your issue. When it comes to color of HID lights, that is like asking what your favorite color is. Everyone has an idea of what the "best" is. I will explain briefly what each bulb is like and then you can decide. They will all work in your car as long as you keep 2 things in mind: 1) it is a D2S bulb, and 2) it is a 35W bulb. HID bulbs are different monsters than halogen bulbs. You can not simply switch up to a 50W bulb and think all will be good. You will find that it will be an expensive lesson.

As for the bulbs:
-3000K: very yellow, fairly bright, but not the brightest of the bulbs, best used for fog lights (when properly equipped)
-4300K: most white with a slight yellow halo to the light. This is the brightest bulb available
-5000K: snow white light, second brightest bulb, but hard to find
-6000K: almost snow white, but starts to develop a blue halo to it, little dimmer than the 5000K
-8000K: starting to turn blue in color, but still puts out a fairly white light, not quite as bright as the 6000K, about a 15% loss in light as compared to the 4300K bulb
-10000K: very blue, does not shine white light on to the road surface. can be an attractor by cops, less light than the 8000K
-15000K: more blue, almost purple in color, less light than 10000K, even more of a cop attention grabber
-30000K: very purple in color, I would think would be very difficult to see. I relate it to walking in a room that is only lit with a black light. Far less light than the 4300K

As for your headlights not coming on, if both started doing it at the same time, it is sounding like your relay is starting to go and is dropping some of the voltage going to the headlights. HIDs want as much voltage as possible. You start dropping it too low and they will do exactly what you say. replace the low beam relay and see what happens. If you want to use a multimeter to diagnose things, let me know.

 

Hi Thermo,

I must admit, I have looked over this forum over the past 2 years on and off and the wealth and knowledge of members cannot be beaten in any aspect. As they say - many heads are better than one, plus the experience of all users provides some form of assurance.

I have spoken to a few people about my headlight and get different answers every time. I am very precious about my X-type, so much that I bought it brand new on a custom factory build from Jaguar. My aim is to work on a small topic at a time and get to know my car further, and share some experience on other aspects.

The passengers side head light is no problem and works as it should. The drivers side is a different story.

When I switch the head lights on, both come on. After a minute for two, the drivers side switches off (only the HID Xenon light). If the car is still idling, and I switch the lights on and off, it will flicker on for a fraction of a second then switch off again. If the car has been standing for a short while, it will come on and switch off after a minute or two.

I would guess the actual lamp is ok, but the power to it is not - but I cannot be sure as the lamp may be behaving in this manner for reasons unknown to me ( i.e. if it were gas and seal problem, it would fail altogether). I am thinking along the lines that there is a charging problem and failure to do wit capacitance somewhere.

I am also unsure at this stage whether the ballast and igniter are part of the same unit, or separate. If it were igniter, my guess is again that it would fault altogether, which is now pointing me to guess the ballast is not charging / suppling electricity at a consistent rate.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Many thanks

 

chumbers, because it is just one light doing the on/off bit, I would first start with a new bulb. That is the most likely source of your problem. If you are still having issues, then I would start looking at an ignitor/ballast issue (same device, different names based on where you get your information). If you are in doubt of what color bulb you have, buy 2 bulbs and replace both of them since if one is failing, the other is probably not too far behind.

If you replace the bulb and are still having issues, then what you will need to do is to first try swapping fuses F16 and F17 and seeing if the problem moves to the other side of the car. If so, you have a fuse that is starting to go. Next, you will need to remove the headlight from the car so you can access the plug on the back of the headlight assembly. Using a multimeter, measure from the green/white wire (pin 5) to chassis ground (do not use pins 9 or 10 which will have black wires attached to them). With the engine off, you should be getting around 12.0 VDC or higher (13.5 VDC or more if the engine is running). If you are not, then you have a wiring issue. If these voltages are good, then move the red lead over to the black wire at Pin 8. with the headlights on. Are you getting less than 0.5 VDC (status of the engine does not matter)? If no, then your problem is most likely the ballast/ignitor. If you are getting over 0.5 VDC, then your ground wire is having issues and you need to repair that wire. Probably easiest to just cut the wire as close as you dare to the plug, solder in a new ground wire and put some head shrink over the solder joint. If you do end up soldering, see if you can find some stuff called "Raychem". Specifically you are after some "Raychem WCSF-070". This is heat shrink on steroids. The benefit of this stuff over the stuff that you will pick up at the local store is this stuff has a heat sensitive glue on the inside. So, when you shrink it down, the glue becomes a liquid and will seal the shrink tubing to the wiring. You will not have to worry about water getting inside of the heat shrink and causing issues in the future. To give you an idea of how good this stuff is, I use it at work on vital equipment that has to work during a nuclear reactor accident and the harsh environment that creates. Your under hood conditions are no where near what that environment is like. You can find it on e-bay or your local electronics shop (higher end one) may have it or a similar product.

 

Hey Thermo,

Thanks for the detailed analysis and breaking down the elimination problem. This is what I mean by this forum and experience - you can't buy that.

I will check over the lights over the coming week and see what I can find - and log my findings here.

I have also found some second hand ballast / igniters for approx. £50 although new ones cost just over £300 from the dealers (ouch!).

Thanks and regards,

Chumbers

 

Thermo - are these not the same? If not getting less than 0.5 VDC is same as getting more than 0.5VDC? Or are you saying it should be exactly 0.5 VDC, and any variation above or below indicates the relevant problem.

Can you explain this again please - am planning of checking this over the weekend.

Many thanks

Chumbers