Help, did you exercise the e-brake lever a few times to properly position the pads near the rotor? If you pushed the piston back, slapped the pads on to the rotor and then buttoned everything up, that is why you have a squishy brake pedal. Kinda like, if you look at the back of the brake pad, you should see 2 dimples sticking out. Those go in the recesses of the piston. That way, as you use the e-brake lever, the piston cannot turn and therefore will adjust the e-brake so it keeps the pads the proper distance from the rotor.

So, I would tell you to pull the wheel, ensure you have the dimples and the recesses of the piston lined up. Then using your thumb, move the e-brake lever a few times till you can no longer move it more than 1/2 its stroke length. Then lets see what your brake pedal feels like.

 

@Thermo it's pretty hard to push back the lever, I can use a flat screwdriver to do it?

 

@ Thermo: That was a very good train of thought - both - the e-brake and the dimples. It is easy to forget about the dimples (on the piston side). And I missed that HELP has an e-brake.

 

@Thermo @Peter_of_Australia so I think I did what you said and no luck the pin is in the slot with the piston and the handbrake does push the caliper but the brakes do not and it still goes to the floorThese might help you see what I am seeing:



you can see the pin that's on the caliper but not that clearly.

 

@ HELP: So to confirm again: You do have an electric handbrake, yes? That is one, which activates automatically, when you put the car in P and pull the ignition key.
It's a mystery to me. The most likely thing would be a blockage in the hydraulic hose to THAT caliper (I hope, the hose is connected to the caliper.)
I would remove that caliper form the car completely and clean it (after removing the piston), and of course re-assemble it with the new rubber-seals, which you should have received in the mail by now, if you ordered them.

 

@Peter_of_Australia No its not automatic its the manual one with the lever inside the car I did take off the caliper when I installed the piston back in maby the brake hose is not on properly? How should it be on is there a certain method?

 

SO there is really no blockage in the tract from where the hydraulic hose enters the caliper? The fluid in the caliper can flow freely into the chamber behind the piston? That is what I suggested to double-check - plus, check, if fluid is coming out of the hose.
If I remember correctly, you simply screw on the caliper onto the hose by turning the complete caliper again and again until it sits.

 

@Peter_of_Australia ohhh I just turned the screw to tighten it not the caliper. Far as I know the fuild should be moving freely behind the piston since there is fuild coming out of the bleeding valve when I open it. I will undo the brake line and screw it back on?

 

Oh, if the fluid comes out of the bleeder (as usual), when you press the brake pedal, then this is probably alright, too. Sorry, I am out of ideas.

 

@Peter_of_Australia nw I am also out of ideas 😭 not sure what went wrong. There is no leaks either so this gonna be a pain in the *** to figure out thanks for the help though🙏 @Thermo would u hv any idea what's happening

 

@Peter_of_Australia @Thermo UPDATE!!!
I got the pedal to not sick any more just had to bleed it abit more, but the issue still remians the piston does not extract when pedal is pushed only a little bit when the handbrake is engaged(lever pulled upwards)

 

Help, yes, you can use a screw driver to move the e-brake lever. You can also get the help of a second person and operate the e-brake lever. The big thing is making sure that the piston remains lined up to the dimples. The piston is going to want to rotate when you move the lever. So, moving the lever as you are there watching the piston was the easiest way I found. I also found it easy to use a second screw driver to push the pad against the piston. That way, you can verify engagement and you can also see how far you are from pushing the pad into the rotor. Just make sure to slide the screw driver out of the way as you get close to pad against rotor.

 

@ Thermo: I got it now: When you use the term "e-brake" you are thinking of hand-brake... (I just googled to confirm my suspicion that e-brake might be short for emergence brake).
When talking "Jaguar" this is confusing, as a "Jaguar e-brake" is normally a Jaguar electric handbrake...

 

@Thermo okay, i will ooen the caliper and have it match the dimples again more then last time and see will send picture once I get the piston lined up

 

You need a mechanic mate. Your pedal going to the floor means you've compromised the integrity of the hydraulic system and your piston not moving suggests you've put it back together incorrectly.

I'm all for working on your own car and learning by doing (I've been doing that for 30 years) and if this was any other part of your car I'd be keen to help you learn your way out of this, but if you make a big enough mistake working on brakes you could easily kill yourself or someone else on the road (or both). The responsible move would be to accept this one is over your head and call an expert.

 

@dangoesfast the peddle going all the way down I have fixed just need to do abit more brake bledding and for the piston not coming out yeh I have no idea why that is, I did talk to a mechinc and he said get a new one so I am planning on doing that but I am gonna try to reasbile the caliper one more time maybe therre is smt not installed properly no idea though. and wiill send pictures like i said once I get it off.

 

HELP, I fully agree with Dangoesfast, that BRAKES are not a decorative item (as I already mentioned somewhere above) - it is something serious. Actually even more serious, as anyone outside of the US would suspect, because - if I am not incorrect - you do not have an mandatory technical checkup in the US (like rego, TUEV or MOT) - thus, nobody would ever see what is wrong with any car. That is dangerous by itself.

I got a nice video for you - start at timecode 5:20 - I saw that a few weeks ago:

Nevertheless, I have one more suggestion:
May I assume that any of the 2 statements in correct?:
1. You did not observe the correct bleeding procedure (which I mentioned above): There is an order to be observed: Start with bleeding the caliper furthest away from the brake master cylinder, then the next closest one, etc. and last the one closest to the brae master cylinder. Even then internet gives plenty of incorrect advise about that: They often use as reference the driver side or passenger side - which is obviously irrelevant. Failure to do so might still trap air somewhere, even though you blead everything (but in the wrong order).
2. At some stage you ran the reservoir empty and pumped air into the system?

If "2", I'd suggest the previously mentioned method with air pressure on a full reservoir - and with the tube on the open bleeder of the buggered caliper.
If "1": Do the bleeding again on the buggered caliper - the usual way might suffice.

The idea behind, which would make perfect sense: Air can be compressed, fluid not. I suspect now that you do still have a pocket of air in the pipe going to the "buggered" caliper, which would explain why it does not move. All the brake fluid in that pipe is doing, is that the fluid changes the momentary size of the air-pocket somewhere in that pipe... ....the Nitrogen and Oxygen atoms are having a wild party somewhere in your brake pipe each time you press the brake pedal - kind of like Nitrogen and Oxygen atoms at a Heavy Metal Concert...

 

Damn I was NOT ready to see an elbow snap 🤢

 

I got a new caliper and installed it it works now thanks for all the help @Thermo @Peter_of_Australia

 

That would do the trick, yes. Good.