2004 XJ8, I just changed the front rotors & pads, now the rears are not cooperating.
I tried using a pinch clamp & a lrg C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper
so I could put the new pads in but it just wont budge, what am I doing wrong ?
Thanks

 

Is there a bleed nipple on the caliper to loosen while you're trying to push the piston back?

 

I've been researching this on YouTube and had the idea it might be related to the electronic e-brake system.
The e-brake engages when the motor is turned off, Yes ? if so is it holding the piston in the extended out position ?
However, my caliper is already removed off its mount bracket and is just hanging there.
The e-brake cable is in the relaxed/extended position with slack in it.
Just not sure why I can't get the piston to re-track back into the caliper while using force ..

 

I am not familiar with the X350 model but I'd guess the parking brake would only be applied if you applied it. If cracking the nipple while applying force still doesn't push the caliper back then your piston is seized. I ran into that once and bought rebuilt calipers and they pushed back by hand!

 

Yes there is, I was trying to avoid re-bleeding the brakes

 

The rear pistons turn, unlike the fronts, that just push in.
Keep e brake from engaging when removing key.
Disconnect neg terminal from battery, & it won't engage.

 

I tried turning them, still wouldn't budge so I ordered 2 rear rebuilt calipers and rotors.
So now it looks like I could use a few tips on bleeding the air out after I put it back together.
I've bleed brakes before, just curious if the X350 needed any special treatment ..
Thanks for all your input

 

Hi 90 S-4,

The piston can be difficult to rotate. There are special tools available, and one of our members found that the pin wrench for his angle grinder would fit the piston, but you can rig an improvized tool with a pair of needle-nosed Vise Grips/Mole Grips and two screws: If I recall correctly, turning the piston clockwise causes it to retract.





Cheers,

Don

 

Don B
I just tried that, no go, I think this thing has corroded itself into a grove in the cylinder.
I think at this point if I got a little movement out of it it still wouldn't function smoothly
on its own when reassembled.
I'm going to wait for my Rock Auto shipment then attack it once more
Thanks

 

I'm not sure of the differences between rear brakes for the XJ8 and XJR, but this is the tool I used on my 05 XJR: ABN Universal Front and Rear Caliper Disc Brake Screw-in Wind Back Rewind and Piston Compression 18-Piece Tool Kit Set, Part Number ABN 2020.

 

The early XJRs have a separate rear caliper for the EPB while the N/A cars and later supercharged cars have a single combined rear caliper.

Some inexpensive tool options for retracting the pistons include adjustable angle grinder pin wrenches like this:




https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-3mm-Dia-P...EAAOSwPzhaGEJa


Or a brake piston retractor tool that fits on a 3/8 inch ratchet extension like this, which are available at many auto parts stores:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Car-Vehi...sAAOSwZOBbg7Ic

If you don't have time to wait on a specialized tool to arrive, the pliers and screws method I showed in post #8 will typically work. But it sounds like 90 S-4's piston must be siezed.

Cheers,

Don

 

Brewster411 / Don BThanks for the tool tips, I think I'll grab one of those square box type, it looks like you could apply moredown force while turning vs the other.Also, I forgot to mention that while I was trying everything I also loosened the bleed screw and still couldn'tget any fluid to come out .

 

Follow up on my stuck caliper question, when I finally got the old rear caliper off and clampedinto the vice, it wouldn't move no matter what I tried ..I originally ordered the pads from Summit but twice they sent me the wrong ones, I called the EBC tech lineand was asked if I could email them pictures and diamentions of my old pads.They emediately got back to me with the correct info (see email from Candance below)EBC told me to purchase them from Perfectbrakes.com (Candance was sorry for the Summit experiance so she gave me the rears for free )"Heads up on the Nugeon calipers"The banjo bolts were the wrong length, I reused the originals.The copper crush rings were wrong as well, O.D. to large ,I reconditioned the originals ..The bleed screws are made in China I think, soft metal & undersized , I reused the originals ..Front rotors from Rock Auto "Pagid pt # 355122872 $47.79 eaRear rotors from Rock Auto "Bosch pt # 20010378 $21.79 eaFront pads from "PerfectBrake.com > EBC redstuff front pt # DP31220/2C $110.44Rear pads from "Perfect Brake.com > EBC redstuff rear pt # DP31221/2C "Free" (long story) Rear calipers from Rockauto.com > "Nugeon" pt # left 9917919A(99-17919A) $77.99 + $30 core = $107.99 pt # right 9917919B(99-17919B) $77.99 + $30 core = $107.99.

Candance Gogola <candance@ebcbrakesusa.com>To:'autobabble autobabble'Apr 10 at 1:52 PMHello Joe,

Please note your FMSI (Friction Materials Standard Institute Number) for the Front is D933 (D1065) and for the Rear D944 (D806).

The actual EBC Brakes Red Stuff Pads which are built to OEM spec per the FMSI numbers I have listed here below for you.

Front Red Stuff Pads Part # DP31220/2C

Rear Red Stuff Pads Part # DP31221/2C

You will see in the attachments I have include photos of both front and rear pad application for you.

Your purchase order UPS tracking# 1Z7454530397166496

I will have Perfect Brakes.com email you a copy of invoice, once available for your purchase.

Thank you for allowing me to assist you, if you have any further application questions or I can be of help please feel free to email me.

Kind regards
Candance Gogola










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