rear brake discs and pads
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There is a search dropdown button on the bar near the top of the screen. Click that and then click the Advanced search. You can enter your parameters and specify which board to search. Here are a few to get you started:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ht=rear+brakes
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ht=rear+brakes
The brake job itself is pretty straightforward if you are familar with changing disc brakes. The spot that usually gives most members trouble is rotating the calipers back in. Sometimes it requires a good bit of force while turning. A brake cube tool or dedicated caliper tool comes in handy.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ht=rear+brakes
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ht=rear+brakes
The brake job itself is pretty straightforward if you are familar with changing disc brakes. The spot that usually gives most members trouble is rotating the calipers back in. Sometimes it requires a good bit of force while turning. A brake cube tool or dedicated caliper tool comes in handy.
Last edited by The Chris X; 08-12-2010 at 07:26 AM.
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Jude, if you have done a disk brake job on other cars, the Jag is very similar. But, like was mentioned, the hard part is getting the rear pistons back into the calipers. Most people will crack open the vent port on the caliper to make turning in the piston easier. Also keep in mind that the piston needs to be turned a specific direction to cause it to retract into the caliper. What I would tell you to do is to get the special tool to be able to turn the piston as you push it in and then turn the piston about 90 degrees in 1 direction as you watch the piston. If the piston moves in, keep turning in that direction (shoudl also see a little bit of brake fluid come out). If the piston extends out, you are turning the wrong direction, reverse the direction and push the piston all the way in. The other side of the car will require you to turn the piston the opposite direction to cause the piston to move in.
Also, you will see 2 bolts holding the caliper to the support assembly. 1 bolt has a large donut piece on it, 1 does not. You only need to remove the bolt with nothing on it and then you can rotate the caliper out of the way to allow changing the pads. If you don't have a donut on 1 bolt, you will see where there is a normal bolt on 1 side and then a funny looking bolt that has a smaller bolt stuck on the end (when you see it, you will know what I am talking about.
Make sure to give the metal plates that the pads slide on a good brushing with a wire brush to get rid of all the old brake dust. It will ensure you get even wear out of your next set of pads.
As for removing the rotors, you will need to remove both bolts holding the calipers to the support assembly (don't need to break the hydraulic line going to the caliper, but you will need to remove the e-brake cable). Next remove the 2 bolts holding the support bracket for the caliper. From here, the rotor should slide off of the studs for the wheels. It may take a little bit of "encouragement" from a rubber hammer (DO NOT!!!! use a metal hammer unless you plan on replacing the rotors) to break the rust bond that sometimes occurs if the rotors have been on the car for awhile.
If you need more info, let me know. I will help you out as much as possible.
Also, you will see 2 bolts holding the caliper to the support assembly. 1 bolt has a large donut piece on it, 1 does not. You only need to remove the bolt with nothing on it and then you can rotate the caliper out of the way to allow changing the pads. If you don't have a donut on 1 bolt, you will see where there is a normal bolt on 1 side and then a funny looking bolt that has a smaller bolt stuck on the end (when you see it, you will know what I am talking about.
Make sure to give the metal plates that the pads slide on a good brushing with a wire brush to get rid of all the old brake dust. It will ensure you get even wear out of your next set of pads.
As for removing the rotors, you will need to remove both bolts holding the calipers to the support assembly (don't need to break the hydraulic line going to the caliper, but you will need to remove the e-brake cable). Next remove the 2 bolts holding the support bracket for the caliper. From here, the rotor should slide off of the studs for the wheels. It may take a little bit of "encouragement" from a rubber hammer (DO NOT!!!! use a metal hammer unless you plan on replacing the rotors) to break the rust bond that sometimes occurs if the rotors have been on the car for awhile.
If you need more info, let me know. I will help you out as much as possible.
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