Thanks guys...Yea the arm with the spring on it has bad bushings. And the only adjustment is TOE unfortunately. The camber is WAY off. I know it does have a slight -camber but mine is like this / if that helps. LOL. I cant SEE anything wrong other than some bushings. Ive already wasted money on upper and lowers because they were actually ok when i took them off. The subframe bolts and everything LOOK ok and the bushings are nice still too. Im totally lost with this crap. Im just startin to finish up my engine swap and this is a MUST next project. Guess ill have to take it a bunch of places. Dealer said they didnt know. Go figure.

 

Have a little of this going on with my 05 Sportwagon. Slightly more on one side than the other. Had a full alignment with new tires (at the tire dealer) and checked it at the Jag dealer. BOTH told me there are no adjustments that will entirely eliminate this. The tire place actually pulled out the manuals and parts available and pointed out the references. Advice from both places: as long as the car handles ok, drive on, rotate the tires on time and don't worry about it.

 

Has anyone experimented with replacing the inner mounting bolt of the Upper Arm with a cam bolt of the right size? Looking at the JTIS schematics, it seems so perfect and easy..

I trust the advice that the lower arms are the culprit, but mine show virtually no bushing wear and camber is perfect on opposite side.

Also, I had a low impact collision on that wheel. So it could be a bent anything back there. Paying for multiple opinions and parts is out-of-the-question..

I like THERMO's advice on measuring the squareness of the subframe, going to do that next..

 

2004XSport, you may want to look at things, the bolt that holds the upper mount in place is welded in place. So, the adjusters like you are thinking will not work unless you pull out a grinder and remove the welds for the nut. Then you will have to weld into place a new retaining pin to use as an anchor point for the adjusting bolts like you are thinking. can it be done. Not a problem. Question is whether you have the tools to do what you are after.

 

Thanks for that advice, I am indeed doing this brainstorming without being under the car. Concerning a grinder> do you know how much room there is to work around that bolt/nut?

Squareness: I am considering tapping the subframe square (I would only loosen the side with bad camber) back near spec, since I've seen the bad camber on the alignment computer screen, I think I could eye ball it within spec. Then I would take it in for alignment and they could readjust the toe and maybe with my advice move subframe again if I was off...

 

Have you changed the bearing. and if the bush doent look right change it.

 

fix it: bushings and bearings seem good. There was a low impact collision on that wheel and something might be bent, but I can't see anything bent.

THERMO: but I believe subframe adjustment wouldn't be suitable when only one side is off, because an adjustment for negative on one side would push the other side in opposite direction, correct?
Also, what about elongating the Upper Arm mount hole horizontally? Is there room to get a drill up there, and would the mount slide back to original orientation under driving strain?

 

2004XSport, there is plenty of room to get a grinder in the area to undo the welds on the nut (not the bolt as I stated earlier). So, getting in there is not a big deal. The bigger issue is coming up with a suitable item to rest the offset bolt against to ensure the suspension doesn't walk on you. This could be nothing more than a simple piece of 1/4" angle tack welded in place say 1/2-3/4" behind where the nut was. I am not sure if I would necessarily trust simply clamping the suspension bolt in place with nothing preventing it from moving.

As for the hole, as I recall (haven't gotten under the car recently), the hole is elongated already. So, making the adjustment would be easy. But, there is still the issue of having a support there to brace the adjustment bolt against once you cut the nut loose.

 

Rear control arm. Mine cost, installed by Jaguar Master Mechanic, $200. I was behind another X-Type with the same situation. Good luck!

 

Thermo: Thanks for the advice, I believe now I have enough info for whenever I'm ready to take on this project

Wayne: I hope I can indeed narrow it down to one replaceable part, I'm going to take a closer look at it all..