Rear park aid speaker
#1
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,223
Likes: 0
Received 3,826 Likes
on
3,145 Posts
The following users liked this post:
X2004 (02-07-2014)
#4
#7
Trending Topics
#8
The full document is available here Workshop Manual in PDF. (thanks to LCGI). This was found in the X Type 'HOW TO' " quick links " found in the stickies at the top of this forums main page. X Type 'HOW TO' " quick links " model specs / info / accessories
If you have any trouble downloading this I can attach the desired areas. Good luck. I've wondered how difficult changing this is.
If you have any trouble downloading this I can attach the desired areas. Good luck. I've wondered how difficult changing this is.
#9
#10
You really don't want to take the parcel shelf out and change this simple job into a huge one!! The rivets that hold the speaker are plastic and can easily be removed from inside the trunk. The speaker is then removeable through the large access holes. The brown covers are held in place with an adhesive that will allow them to be lifted, then replaced later. Attach the new speaker with small nuts and bolts.
Last edited by astromorg; 02-08-2014 at 12:05 PM.
The following users liked this post:
X2004 (02-09-2014)
#11
#13
#14
#16
*** update ***
"Rear park assist speaker" ordered on eBay for $34.52; received today and replaced. Result = success!
Note:
No rivets are included with the part so I've secured it in place with Velcro.
I did it from the trunk without removing the parcel shelf as suggested by the Jaguar manual.
Finally, I want to thank everyone for their input, from diagnosis to repair procedure, because I would not have been able to do it without your precious advice and it saved me a ton of $$$.
Next item: exterior passenger mirror (the glass part only).
Take care everyone!
Note:
No rivets are included with the part so I've secured it in place with Velcro.
I did it from the trunk without removing the parcel shelf as suggested by the Jaguar manual.
Finally, I want to thank everyone for their input, from diagnosis to repair procedure, because I would not have been able to do it without your precious advice and it saved me a ton of $$$.
Next item: exterior passenger mirror (the glass part only).
Take care everyone!
#18
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,223
Likes: 0
Received 3,826 Likes
on
3,145 Posts
Thomas, open up the trunk/boot to your car and remove the carpeting that is covering the spare tire. If you look between the spare tire and the rear bumper, you should see a black electronics box in the well (left/driver side as I recall). The module resides there and the speaker is in a box under the rear shelf.
#19
With thanks to everyone participating in this thread; I am going to reply to it since it had already been started before I created a now-moribund thread not knowing the correct term for the parking aid system.
I got the module out and recorded voltage readings on the pins with reverse engaged vs not engaged. The module is doing stuff all right, but I can't tell what is normal and what is abnormal. It would still seem possible my speaker is dead but I cannot hear the tick tick ticking the sensors are supposed to be emitting. This makes me wonder if module is bad. Has anyone ever taken and compiled voltage readings on the pins of this module? If so, can we compare notes before I buy a replacement speaker? --Tom in Tucson
I got the module out and recorded voltage readings on the pins with reverse engaged vs not engaged. The module is doing stuff all right, but I can't tell what is normal and what is abnormal. It would still seem possible my speaker is dead but I cannot hear the tick tick ticking the sensors are supposed to be emitting. This makes me wonder if module is bad. Has anyone ever taken and compiled voltage readings on the pins of this module? If so, can we compare notes before I buy a replacement speaker? --Tom in Tucson
#20
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
Posts: 14,223
Likes: 0
Received 3,826 Likes
on
3,145 Posts
Thomas, the 2 wires going to the parking aide speaker (sounder), you should be seeing that either a solid 12 VDC or bouncing between 12 VDC and 0 VDC depending on how far away something is to the back of the car. The speaker is simply a piezo speaker that takes a 12 VDC signal and creates a tone when power is applied (different from a normal speaker which requires an AC signal for it to make any significant noise). So, if you are not getting 12 VDC to the sounder, then you are not getting the signals processed by the computer.
Since you are not getting any sound from the sensors, my next check would be to measure for "12 VDC" going to the sensors. This would be seen on the Red/White (+) and Black/Green (-) wires at the sensors. These would be pins 1 (+) and 3 (-). YOu may only see say 5 VDC if you are using a digital meter or a voltage that is bouncing around a lot as this voltage is turning on and off fairly quickly to allow the noise the sensor makes to be transmitted, bounced off an object and then sensed. So, if you are seeing any voltage there when the car is in reverse, then you can assume the computer is trying to tell the sensors to do their job. If you are getting 12 VDC there, then that would be an issue. But, all 4 sensors should be getting roughly the same voltage.
As for the voltage on the remaining wire at the sensors (Pin 2). This is the echo signal. This can be a number of voltages and odds are will not be significant enough for you to measure. So, I would not worry about it. From the sounds of things, this wire wouldn't be telling you much any ways.
Based on what you are seeing, I would also check 2 other wires to chassis ground. These would be the power wire (yellow/green wire). This should have 12 VDC on it at all times. The other wire would be the back up lighting wire (Green/Black). This should have 12 VDC on it whenever the car is in reverse. The green/black wire is what tells the parking aide computer to start pulsing the reversing sensors to have them start making noise.
So, in short, if you have 12 VDC power and you have 12 VDC backup lighting power, but you don't have any voltage to the sensors, then you have a bad computer. If you have power 12 VDC power, back up lighting power, and power to the sensors, but no power to the sounder (with something close to the vehicle), then you have a bad computer, just on the output side of it. If you have power everywhere, but still no sounder, then this would be either a bad sounder or a bad wire between the computer and the sounder (measure for the power going to the sounder at the computer and at the plug to the sounder, if you have a significant difference in voltage, then you have a bad wire).
Hopefully this gives you the info that you need. Please keep in mind that this is based on the earlier generation X-Type. If you have a newer version, I will convert the wiring to that system.
Since you are not getting any sound from the sensors, my next check would be to measure for "12 VDC" going to the sensors. This would be seen on the Red/White (+) and Black/Green (-) wires at the sensors. These would be pins 1 (+) and 3 (-). YOu may only see say 5 VDC if you are using a digital meter or a voltage that is bouncing around a lot as this voltage is turning on and off fairly quickly to allow the noise the sensor makes to be transmitted, bounced off an object and then sensed. So, if you are seeing any voltage there when the car is in reverse, then you can assume the computer is trying to tell the sensors to do their job. If you are getting 12 VDC there, then that would be an issue. But, all 4 sensors should be getting roughly the same voltage.
As for the voltage on the remaining wire at the sensors (Pin 2). This is the echo signal. This can be a number of voltages and odds are will not be significant enough for you to measure. So, I would not worry about it. From the sounds of things, this wire wouldn't be telling you much any ways.
Based on what you are seeing, I would also check 2 other wires to chassis ground. These would be the power wire (yellow/green wire). This should have 12 VDC on it at all times. The other wire would be the back up lighting wire (Green/Black). This should have 12 VDC on it whenever the car is in reverse. The green/black wire is what tells the parking aide computer to start pulsing the reversing sensors to have them start making noise.
So, in short, if you have 12 VDC power and you have 12 VDC backup lighting power, but you don't have any voltage to the sensors, then you have a bad computer. If you have power 12 VDC power, back up lighting power, and power to the sensors, but no power to the sounder (with something close to the vehicle), then you have a bad computer, just on the output side of it. If you have power everywhere, but still no sounder, then this would be either a bad sounder or a bad wire between the computer and the sounder (measure for the power going to the sounder at the computer and at the plug to the sounder, if you have a significant difference in voltage, then you have a bad wire).
Hopefully this gives you the info that you need. Please keep in mind that this is based on the earlier generation X-Type. If you have a newer version, I will convert the wiring to that system.
The following users liked this post:
thomash85715 (04-08-2015)