Hello forum -

After reading through the threads I have to assume I need to replace the radiator fans. Anyone done this before or have a hardware recommendation?

Here's the issue: According to Torque, my car stays in the 199-205 degree range, while in 80-100 degree weather and with air conditioning on, and in stop-and-go traffic. However, when it gets up around 100-110 degrees - with air conditioning, going up a long hill, in stop-and-go traffic - it'll get up to 215. I can then hear detonation/knock. Turning on the heater brings it down to 210ish.

This sounds like the thermostat is working but the fans don't run high/hard enough to cool the engine in extremely hot weather. Am I wrong?

Thank you as always for any guidance!

 

So not the most scientific approach. Try this, start car, turn on A/C and set to the lowest temperature possible. Now pop and raise hood (bonnet), slightly lean forward over radiator area. Is there a SIGNIFICANT AMOUNT of air being blown towards your face from BOTH fans?

There could be a problem with the fan control module, a pretty common known failure with X's.

 

Hi Dell,

Well... to answer your scenario question first, the fans do come on, and I can feel the air but my hair isn't blowing around. I wouldn't say SIGNIFICANT - definitely not full speed. I am definitely not a mechanic.

That said, I had issues with the fan module before and since I replaced the module the fans do SEEM to come on and off when they should. I monitor the engine temp. in stop-and-go traffic pretty regular because of the previous module issue. Since then I've never seen it go above ~205 w/o the fans coming on to cool it back down to ~200 (I assume the reason the temp goes down is the fans). The stop-and-go traffic behavior is like so: the engine temp rises and falls, up to 205ish and then back again to 200ish, up and down, over and over. That's my scientific observation .

Thanks for the reply!

 

If your fans need replacing and you are planning on keeping this car for a while, just bite the bullet and get the new OEM fans. No worrying about used parts, aftermarket parts etc.

 

@Spikepaga Thanks. I'm sure you're right. Where did you buy yours from? How much? I am looking on jaguarparts dot com where OEM is listed at $785. I hope I can install it myself.

 

Original # C2S43492

https://www.carid.com/2006-jaguar-x-...er=1&sub-model[Liter]=3.0L

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+assembly,2181

 

Yes, they seem to run close to 800.00. I wouldn’t o with aftermarket and as a last resort, get a used OEM fan from a wrecked car. The aftermarket fans just do not have the same CFM as the OEM.

 

@Dell Gailey Thank you. Can I use the existing wiring harness? I know there are two different connectors for the control module.

I wasn't able to find a thread on installing a new fan assembly. Anyone have experience doing this? I have some mechanical experience but not sure how difficult this is to install.

 

Idk, I'd call and ask.

 

I have designed fans and not to geek out too much, but you can see in the pictures of the aftermarket parts they clearly copy the shroud and then put in whatever fan they have that kinda fits. There are large gaps between the outside diameter of the fan blades and the inside diameter of the shroud. This is never the case with an OEM fan, this gap is tightly controlled because the high pressure air downstream gets sucked back to the low pressure side in front of the fan. Recirculation = Ineffeciency. The fan is working hard at pulling the same air around the blade tips instead of pulling fresh air through the radiator.

It seems to me you are describing a cooling system that works but isn't working quite as well as it used to. The cooling system decreases in efficiency primarily because the radiator and condenser clog up with dirt, bugs, and debris and the fins get bent from the same stuff making it harder for the fan to pull air through. Also the inside of the radiator can gunk up and you lose some coolant flow. Changing the fan assembly won't help any of these conditions. I would spray a garden hose through the radiator fins from the inside of the engine bay outward and then spray again from the front of the car inward, and inspect the fins for damage. You can get a radiator fin "comb" for a couple of dollars if the fins looks bad.

The fan itself will get worse primarily if it has damaged blades or if the motor bearings are going bad or, in the extreme, when the motor brushes wear out. Spin the fans by hand (with the car off and cooled down) and see if you can feel or hear the bearings. There will be a magnetic torque that varies as the motor rotates, maybe 6 or 8 "cogs" that vary smoothly in torque on each revolution. A bad bearing on the other hand will feel suddenly harder or suddenly easier to move. If you hear any squeaks at all it is likely a bad bearing or the brushes are toast and the motor is about to fail.

Another source of cooling loss is a decrease in voltage at the fan which is usually the result of corrosion in connectors. A corroded connector could easily drop the fan voltage and speed by 5% which is going to result in a few degrees higher coolant temps.

One last thing, the shroud has a few flaps on it that are normally closed but open up as the vehicle speed increases. If these flaps are missing or are stuck open that will cause higher coolant temperatures at idle or in stop and go traffic.

 

@dh53 Thank you! I was just going to post some questions before pulling the trigger - which you just answered. I will try your suggestions before buying a whole new fan assembly.

 

I have used fans and whole units. Let me know. I am way cheaper then 800. Lol
My cell is 484-903-4813