I have a 2003 Jaguar X-Type Manual with over 215,000 miles. It is still in remarkable good shape. One thing that has been defying repair has been the dash "Brake" light (red). It stays on. My checking of the wiring diagram shows only 2 components, master cylinder fluid switch and e-brake switch.

1. It is no the e-brake switch, since disconnecting it does not solve the issue. Also, when in cruise control, applying the e-brake disengages the cruise control (as expected)
2. It is not the brake master cylinder switch as I have changed out the brake master cylinder and reservoir (new switch) and this did not solve the issue.

When the car is started, the "Brake" light (red) comes on. After a few seconds it goes out, then a couple of seconds later relights and stays on.

The light staying on started out being intermittent and over time change to full time on. Recently, only once did it go out and stay off for a few miles, but only after being outside overnight on a very cold night (for California).

I know having a indicator light staying on is not that big of an issue on this old of a vehicle, but it is in remarkable good condition (though a lot of junk yard searches for cosmetic parts). The only thing now working 100% is this indicator light.

I was hoping someone might have run across something similar and could point me in the right direction to resolve this or perhaps how to diagnose. Thanks in advance.

 

Use an OBD reader and pull codes. Could be one of several problems = ABS parts, wheel sensor, reluctor ring, ...

 

hratzlaff, looking at the diagrams and based on what you have done already, I see 1 of 2 problems being the source of your issue. This can be differentiated by doing a simple electrical check. You will need to get a multimeter. You will then open the hood/bonnet and go to the master cylinder. From there, you are going to find the switch on the master cylinder. Disconnect the plug to the switch. At this point, set the multimeter to monitor resistance on the 2K scale. Take the black lead and either log it into something against the body of the car or loosen a screw and tighten the tip of the probe under the screw. Now, with the red lead, touch each of the pins inside the plug that you disconnected. What you should see is one terminal will indicate a very low resistance (under 5 ohms). The other should be indicating something fairly high (either "OL" or something above 500 ohms). If you are getting a low resistance on both wires, then odds are the wiring between the instrument cluster and this switch is bad. This will require hand over handing the wiring and figuring out where the insulation has been damaged and making the appropriate repair (if you need ideas, let me know). If you get a low and a high resistance reading, then this only leaves the instrument cluster as your problem. Unfortunately, this will most likely require the replacement of the instrument cluster unless you can find a local shop that can fix instrument clusters. Keep in mind, you will need to get some programming done on the car to make it start again if you replace the instrument cluster.

 

Thanks to both of you for your reply. Thermo, yours is one that I have not yet tried and didn't think about a grounded wire. I should have though, since I had wiring issues in the trunk that required some repair already. I had the instrument cluster repaired because the tach became inoperative. They tested it before returning and I hope that means this issue as well. I'll let you know how it goes, although it may take a few days to get to it. It is honey do season and my time is not my own.

Side question. If I take the Instrument panel and ECM from a junk car, does it still require reprogramming? Mine is a manual, can the donor be an automatic?

 

hratzlaff, I can say definitely that if you pull the auto stuff and try and put it in a manual car, you are going to get a bunch of error codes to come up because the ECU is going to go looking for the tranny computer and it is not going to find it. As for pulling both the instrument cluster and the ECU, it may work, but you may find that the ODO is going to read wrong and this can lead to 2 different issues: 1) you are going to have a car that indicates more miles than it has really travelled and therefore there are people that will say "too many miles on the car"; 2) you are going to get one that says less, then you have to file special paperwork to explain why the ODO reads less, making some people question why you did that. This leads to people questioning your decision (however good or bad it may be). If you plan on driving the car till you have to push it into the junkyard, then don't worry about it. But, if you plan on selling, it can get a little interesting unless you can take the instrument cluster somewhere that they can verify your current mileage and transfer it into the "new" equipment.

 

Thanks again Thermo. Your points are well noted. This 2003 Xtype has over 213,000. Even though it is in excellent condition both mechanically and visually, A buyer would not have to open their wallet very wide to pay the purchase price. I bought a 2017 XE Prestige Diesel AWD and use that when going distance. I got stuck on the I5 Christmas day in the snow (Southern Calif). Most 2 wheel drive cars were stuck at least overnight and some longer. I left with the rest of the 4 wheel drive crowd as soon as they opened a turn around option. I was surprised how well the car did in the snow. I did not regret deciding against taking the Jeep Grand Cherokee 4wd.

I still like driving that little Xtype manual. It is small, light and nimble. Not overpowered, but it does ok. I will miss it when I park it for the last time. My wife has 2003 x-type automatic and she prefers it over our other vehicles. Although the manual really makes the car fun.