Red Circle Exclamation Point!
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#2
Per the owner's manual, it looks like the warning light (looks like a gear ring with an exclamation point inside) you're talking about is:
I would probably suggest contacting your service dept to find out.
Sorry, that's all I know.
Powertrain Malfunction (Red)
Illuminates when there is an engine malfunction or
transmission system malfunction.
Illuminates when there is an engine malfunction or
transmission system malfunction.
Sorry, that's all I know.
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#10
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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Bruserker, look around. You can get the throttle position sensor rebuilt for around $400 (last look) and putting on the rebuilt one is simple (basic hand tools is all that is required, so, even if you have some basic ability, you can do the job). I would also check out the local wrecking yards to see if you can get one that way. that would be a lot cheaper. I know the dealership is going to charge you about $1200 for a new throttlebody. A junkyard should only want about $200 for one.
On a side note, if I pay for shipping, could I get you to send me your failed one? The dealership has to give you the old one if you ask for it. I'm looking to see if I can obtain replacement parts for these and possibly offer something for the members to help them out. Thanks.
On a side note, if I pay for shipping, could I get you to send me your failed one? The dealership has to give you the old one if you ask for it. I'm looking to see if I can obtain replacement parts for these and possibly offer something for the members to help them out. Thanks.
#12
Okay, so I contacted one of my friend that is a PHD in Mechanical and Aero Engineering at UI. I showed him the picture of the PTS part. The part is made from Denso, number# 1985003300 that is the sensor. The Whole Position Throttle part number is XR84053 when ask at the dealer. On the throttle itself, it has 1X43-9F991-CE-0172 2E17. On another forum, someone said you can change the sensor.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...r+Flow&submit=
I found it under the autopartwarehouse.com site. I see the sensor and it looks exactly the same comparing to my PT. I am going to send in the PT to my friend, and have him take it apart and to take a look at it. Why would something like this be so common in Jaguar. Not only in X-Type. Dealer charged me $1600 on the part alone. Hopefully, I can fix this old one and get a good $400 to $600 back on it. I will keep you guys updated.
After the dealership, my brakes started squeaking. It has been 4 month after I changed the brake pads, bleeding the brakes and resurfacing the rotor. No squeak what so ever for four month, 3000 miles. Now it squeaks!! I asked the dealer and they said, "Since you used after market pads instead of dealer pads, it will cause a squeak. Genuine pads are softer than aftermarket pads. When you buy aftermarket pads they will cause the car to squeak. You might have not notice the noise before, but since we wash your car and its clean now. The squeak is apparent."
Okay..... I wash my car every two weeks. I guess I don't know how to wash my car..... Anyways, I have these lifetime warranty pads, I guess I should just return them and do a replacement on brakes again. Any suggestion like doing a re-grease on the pads or lubing the brake's bolts? I hate to do another brake pad replacement. Not in the mood for another hassle.
Thanks for any suggestions - B
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/se...r+Flow&submit=
I found it under the autopartwarehouse.com site. I see the sensor and it looks exactly the same comparing to my PT. I am going to send in the PT to my friend, and have him take it apart and to take a look at it. Why would something like this be so common in Jaguar. Not only in X-Type. Dealer charged me $1600 on the part alone. Hopefully, I can fix this old one and get a good $400 to $600 back on it. I will keep you guys updated.
After the dealership, my brakes started squeaking. It has been 4 month after I changed the brake pads, bleeding the brakes and resurfacing the rotor. No squeak what so ever for four month, 3000 miles. Now it squeaks!! I asked the dealer and they said, "Since you used after market pads instead of dealer pads, it will cause a squeak. Genuine pads are softer than aftermarket pads. When you buy aftermarket pads they will cause the car to squeak. You might have not notice the noise before, but since we wash your car and its clean now. The squeak is apparent."
Okay..... I wash my car every two weeks. I guess I don't know how to wash my car..... Anyways, I have these lifetime warranty pads, I guess I should just return them and do a replacement on brakes again. Any suggestion like doing a re-grease on the pads or lubing the brake's bolts? I hate to do another brake pad replacement. Not in the mood for another hassle.
Thanks for any suggestions - B
#13
After the dealership, my brakes started squeaking. It has been 4 month after I changed the brake pads, bleeding the brakes and resurfacing the rotor. No squeak what so ever for four month, 3000 miles. Now it squeaks!! I asked the dealer and they said, "Since you used after market pads instead of dealer pads, it will cause a squeak. Genuine pads are softer than aftermarket pads. When you buy aftermarket pads they will cause the car to squeak. You might have not notice the noise before, but since we wash your car and its clean now. The squeak is apparent."
#14
red engine light
I had the same light go on about two weeks ago. Until I stopped the car and did some errands got back in and restarted and the light has never come on again. I just posted today I got a hold of the Jaguar data base for DTC codes and your have a P1111 code with according to Jaguar means engine passed. It is a check code and the light should go off as soon as the engine starts and self checks. Why mine came on I have no idea, but it has not come on again so I am not going to worry about it.
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Mine went away and then came back after two weeks. On and off since then. Finally got fed up and took it to the dealership. As stated above, they noted it was a failure in the Position Throttle Sensor. Which required them to replace the whole throttle body. Looking up parts for the sensor, after I had the repair done. Cost me $2200. I found that the sensor can be replaced at the website noted earlier. I am not sure if this will fix the problem or not. But I rather try for around $100-200 dollars compared to $2200. I do not know where the PCV valve is, but the tube is connected to the engine and the air filter thingy. It is located in the center between those two items. Research before showed that the hose was smooth. Talking to the dealership, they said those tube usually crack around 35,000-40,000 miles. They have a new reinforce hose that looks more ridged. The hose cost $18 to change it out. Better do it earlier and save yourself the trouble.
#17
I had the same light go on about two weeks ago. Until I stopped the car and did some errands got back in and restarted and the light has never come on again. I just posted today I got a hold of the Jaguar data base for DTC codes and your have a P1111 code with according to Jaguar means engine passed. It is a check code and the light should go off as soon as the engine starts and self checks. Why mine came on I have no idea, but it has not come on again so I am not going to worry about it.
ADAM!!!!!!!!!!!! ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh there are no OBD codes associated with the red light... been agressively trying to pound this into your head.
that is why you only had P1111 when your red light came on.... the codes that you can read are ONLY for the Yellow check engine light... (well my code reader can read some "C" codes for the brakes) - not all readers can access more the the basic "P" Codes
#18
Pcv
Mine went away and then came back after two weeks. On and off since then. Finally got fed up and took it to the dealership. As stated above, they noted it was a failure in the Position Throttle Sensor. Which required them to replace the whole throttle body. Looking up parts for the sensor, after I had the repair done. Cost me $2200. I found that the sensor can be replaced at the website noted earlier. I am not sure if this will fix the problem or not. But I rather try for around $100-200 dollars compared to $2200. I do not know where the PCV valve is, but the tube is connected to the engine and the air filter thingy. It is located in the center between those two items. Research before showed that the hose was smooth. Talking to the dealership, they said those tube usually crack around 35,000-40,000 miles. They have a new reinforce hose that looks more ridged. The hose cost $18 to change it out. Better do it earlier and save yourself the trouble.
#19
Pound Pound
ADAM!!!!!!!!!!!! ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh there are no OBD codes associated with the red light... been agressively trying to pound this into your head.
that is why you only had P1111 when your red light came on.... the codes that you can read are ONLY for the Yellow check engine light... (well my code reader can read some "C" codes for the brakes) - not all readers can access more the the basic "P" Codes
that is why you only had P1111 when your red light came on.... the codes that you can read are ONLY for the Yellow check engine light... (well my code reader can read some "C" codes for the brakes) - not all readers can access more the the basic "P" Codes
#20
Umm...... The black box left of the battery. I think that is the air filter thingy. Well there should be this hose that connects to that and the engine. Held together by two clamps. The upper hose clamp is stuck to the hose, so don't worry about leaving them. Just loosen and remove the hose. The dealership will give you replacement clamps. Damn, wish I had my camera. If I had it, I would just post a picture up. Hope this helps.