As others have said, yes, this was one of the more difficult (well, tedious) projects to date. Zero room, low visibility, poor access and not made easier with the cars and hardware getting older and rustier every year. I don't quite see how a second person would be of significant benefit beyond them doing one side while you do the other or just for positive encouragement though, solo work is just fine. Some creativity helps..

I did NOT lower the subframe at all - I did try but my impact wrench would not budge the big bolts. I was somewhat ambivalent as I was very concerned about shearing one off but still gave it all the power my driver had. The same driver took off the axle nuts so not sure why it didn't do these...My car is not particularly rusty and I did use PBlaster on the bolts through the access holes in the inner fender. No dice on that for me.

Passenger side and driver side are similarly difficult in slightly different ways. I had the slight benefit of almost everything removed in the wheel wells as I am replacing the entire suspension. If the tie rod inners and boots were gone too that may have made a big difference though, although mine seem fine so they are staying for now and were in for this job.

Yes, a 13mm flex head ratchet is a requirement at least for the passenger side. A skinny 13mm open end is very useful (essential?) too, even better one that can be sacrificed to shave off any extra meat around the perimeter to help with access, it doesn't need a lot of actual force on it once started. (I did not trim mine down). On the passenger side the flexhead ratchet 13mm wrench will take care of the rear bolt once it's loosened (with a regular spanner and a few whacks with a hammer to it.). The front bolt can also be undone with the same wrench but eventually there isn't enough room to remove it so then switching to an open end works ok with minute movements, about 1/12th turn each time and rotating the wrench from side to side (flipping it back and forth). For this side I did NOT remove both bolts entirely, only the back one. I got the front one so it allowed the bracket to lift up about 3/4 inch and then pulled the old bushing apart and out with a pair of pliers. The new bushing had trouble going in due to the lip on either side of it, but I slid it over the swaybar and then sort of pushed it under the bracket with a blunt tool and a screwdriver to hold the lip down to get it to slide underneath the bracket. No it did not go easy but eventually it did without damage. Additionally since I left the front bolt in the bracket would rotate back so I would hold it in place with a right angle pick. Something with a reverse angle (like a crochet needle?) may have been very useful here. When retightening go back and forth - each bolt for a few turns, I had to redo it as I did too much on one and the bolt got wedged on the other, once re-loosened going back and forth every few turns worked better.

One BIG note of caution - it's better to have a flexhead ratchet with a reverse. Mine you have to flip over to make it work the other way, This is dangerous as you can theoretically get it into a position where the bolt it so loose but not out and high that the wrench cannot clear the top, without a reverse lever you might end up stuck. I just went as high as I thought I safely could (actually a little too high) and then levered it off with a screwdriver underneath it and finished undoing it with fingers with rubberized gloves. Spraying Pblaster into the bolt threads a few times while working it with my fingers and sometimes running the bolt out and back in a bit (half a turn) worked slowly but surely..

Driver side (US driver side) was not much better except that with a 13mm shallow socket (the normal kind), a wobble extension, then an 8" straight extension this allowed better access from the top inside the wheelwell and allowed me to break the rear bolt loose with the ratchet. I could not reach it from underneath with enough strength to loosen it. The socket took it all the way up and off, much better than the passenger side and to be fair I did not think of this when doing the passenger side initially, I'm not sure if it would fit on that side. If it does that is far preferable to the normal way, always better to work through the wheelwell than be under the car.. The front bolt came off after much back and forth with a THIN open end 13mm and the last half or so inch pretty much by my fingers jammed up against it and partly with a soft touch on a needle nose locking pliers rotating the bottom of the bolt at the bottom below the threads inside the box section metal that is there (the bolts have about 1/5" of extra metal without threads at the bottom to grab on to).. In this case I got the whole bracket off, slid the bushing over the bar but there is a screw poking out of the fenderwell that gets in the way of the swaybar raising far enough for the bushing to clear the perch it sits on so the bushing went in oriented the wrong way and needing to rotate around the bar. With some trial and error and fingerwork along with a pry bar eventually this was able to flip around to sit correctly. Then restart the bolts by hand (not quite two fingers for the front one, then one finger and an open end to lever it around and around until it cleared the boot of the inner tire rod end enough to fit the ratchet around it.). Back bolt drop in from underneath with one hand sort of working blind and then one finger on it from underneath, another finger from other hand coming in through the wheelwell to get it started, then the jointed socket and ratchet and finish off with the flex-head ratchet from below. On this side it helped tremendously that the strut was out of the car as that's the space where I was rotating the ratchet from. Doing it again I would probably cut that screw that got in the way of the bar off, it just holds (with a washer type of thing up a piece of sound insulation that was falling apart on my car anyway..

It's doable but frustrating and yes, taking a break (or multiple breaks) helps tremendously. It took me about 2.5 hours for the passenger side (not counting breaks) and about 1.5 for the driver's side.

Now the bar is held in quite tight, with force it will rotate in order to reattach the links but the old one was very floppy with visible space between it and the old bushings allowing fore and aft as well as every other way motion. The old bushings had markings indicating they were from 05 when the car was built so clearly high time for replacement.